Rose of Cinmarron
Perfumer: Elise Pearlstine
The marriage of rose and jasmine is perfumery’s longest-lasting. The accord, so much better than the sum of two parts, forms the basis for many of the greats -- “Joy” comes to mind, of course, but there are hundreds of others. Skillful use of this accord makes me think that “Rose of Cinmarron” is the most “classic perfume” smelling fragrance of the Outlaws I’ve tried so far.
One of many delights about exploring these perfumes is learning about the components. This scent uses pandanus, a flowering tree sometimes called kewda. Its scent is like a fruity rose, and the leaves have a peppery note. The perfumer lists pandanus as one of the topnotes, along with black and pink pepper. There’s not enough pepper here to irritate the trigeminal nerve -- the source of the pleasant, almost-pain sensation found particularly in pink pepper -- but that’s not a bad thing! (I’ve tried a few perfumes that were almost like wasabi in that way. This isn’t.)
The heart notes, as mentioned above, are all about the rose-jasmine accord. Both types of jasmine, the greener sambac and more indolic grandiflorum, are used, along with ylang-ylang (as a base note), the fixative amyris, another new one to me, which is distilled from the wood of a tree native to Haiti and smells something like sandalwood. These and the other base notes comprise a spicy drydown with a slight tropical floral, which I’m guessing is the ylang-ylang.
As with other botanicals, this stays close to skin. Pearlstine included in the package a faux rose petal, which could be used as a body sachet. A few drops of the perfume on this petal, placed near warmth, seems an ideal way to wear this scent; long-lasting, gentle, a perfect daytime scent for the office.
A very pretty classic fragrance with good longevity.
As always, the ingredients appearing on the IFRA's proposed no-no list appear in red italics.
Top: pink pepper, black pepper, pandanus
Heart: Wild rose, rose absolute, rose otto, jasmine grandifolum absolute, jasmine sambac absolute
Base: Ylang-ylang absolute, patchouli, labdanum, ambrette seed, angelica root, sandalwood, blond tobacco and amyris.