Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Scatterings

Finally beginning to plow through the cigar box full of samples. My testing procedure: Two drops of the fragrance on a strip of watercolor paper. (Watercolor paper is far superior to the premade strips usually used. It’s designed to hold particles of pigment, forever. It holds perfume molecules for weeks, and allows you to really evaluate the base notes.) Concurrently, apply to skin. Sniff skin/paper alternately.
My skin burns through a scent at least twice as fast as paper, and sometimes the scents are completely different, especially in niche/artisan fragrances. (I know, I know, this isn’t exactly what you’d call news, is it.)
Anyway, here are a few, grabbed blind from the cigar box:
Coze (Parfumerie General ): Opens with a slight tang and a little confusion. A green note, or is it something else? (Offically, this is built around a seed oil exclusive to PG, Canapa Sativa. Maybe that’s it.) Then it becomes what so many of the niche scents become now: woody.  A little research reveals wood, coffee, pepper, smoke, a little cocoa. I smell the wood; coffee wouldn’t have occurred to me; no pepper, no smoke, so far. It smells like many other niche scents I’ve tried.
However, on my skin this opens very differently. A nutty warmth. Wood right away. There’s the pepper, and I think it’s black pepper.
After a few hours (blotter only) I can smell the coffee. It reminds me of the coffee note in Ineke's Field Notes from Paris. There’s a little bit of cocoa, too. The next morning, what’s left on the paper is a slightly musky wood. A nice scent, nothing wrong with it, but nothing really new, either. Perfumer: Pierre Guillaume.
Orange Star (Tauer Perfumes): Opens on paper a little soapy, and more like orange soda than orange blossom. The fruitiness continues on: orange orange orange. 
Howevah: This is why perfumes must be tested on skin. It’s very different. The bases come up much faster, and they’re needed. In this race, skin wins; the fruity orange, which is a little off-putting to me, fades much more quickly as the resins bloom into a recognizable Tauer fragrance.
I think we need a holiday perfume to replace Caron’s Nuit Noel, the old war horse that has held this role for decades. This could be the one. It reminds me of a pomander, with all the orange and spices. 
Hmmmm….(a quick perusal of Perfume Shrine's review reveals that the idea came from a soap Tauer makes and gives to his friends at Christmas -- I didn’t know this, honest! My nose must be improving, some. “Official” notes include a “fresh citrus accord” lemon grass, orange flower, an ambergris base, tonka and vanilla. There are spices in there too, though, hence the pomander comparison.
The next day, on the blotter, the spices and ambergris note persist, with a hint of orange blossom. This is where Orange Star really, uh, shines. Perfumer: Andy Tauer.
L’Ombre Fauve (Parfumerie General, Private Collection): Roughly translated: “brown wild beast.” On paper: This one reminds me a bit of Shalimar, but it’s not nearly so polite. What rough beast -- very well-named.
On skin: an odd opening, some more-bitter-than-usual citrus, over in a flash.  Morphs almost immediately into a chocolately incense-y amber underlaid with animalics, most notably an in-your-face musk. Woods, vanilla. Patchouli, definitely. A Shalimar/Habanita for the new millennium. Dries down heavy patchouli. 
The next day, on paper, it’s all vanilla and that heavy, slightly catty musk -- I’m wondering; is it real, a real animal musk? Is that possible?
A quick visit to the website; to gain access to the “Private Collection” area, one has to submit a username and password (which doesn’t actually get submitted, so you’re locked out, SoL. If this isn’t a broken link, then it’s just silly; who do I have to know to...never mind.) 
Very limited distribution. A fall/winter scent, imho. Perfumer: Pierre Guillaume.
Coming soon: Agent Provocateur (what a surprise!) and Parfums di Nicolai’s Eau Turquoise. And, finally, Nuit de Tubereuse.
Full disclosure: I bought these samples from LuckyScent.


photo © Sazykin, used under license from Dreamstime.com.


11 comments:

Anonymous said...

Interesting analyses, especially when I haven't seen any reviews of your first and third subjects. Thanks for the tip on watercolor paper, too.
-- Gretchen

ScentScelf said...

I gave up on paper for a while, because I went through a number of scents that behaved so differently on paper v. skin, that I figured I might as well go straight to the mode d'emploi. (And create a particularly mangled form of Franglish at the same time, it seems.) But I love the idea of watching the scent evolve that way...probably because I can so readily visualize so many ink chromatography experiments done with kids...I think of the notes settling into their spatial corners, so to speak...

Have not tried Orange Star as of yet, but yes to the two PG's. L'Ombre Fauve is a favorite of mine...on me, a "skin" scent that remembers skins come from animals, without smacking you upside the head about it.

Anonymous said...

Hi Gretchen -- You're welcome! One sheet of cold-pressed (don't get hot-pressed, it's too slick) Arches paper will make many, many testing strips.

Olfacta said...

Hi S -- I still do paper as well as skin, because those samples just burn right up on me. I've read that the new fragrances are designed for trying on paper -- that's why they're so linear. Sometimes, as with Orange Star, they're very different, sometimes not.

Like your visual, too!

ptucoco said...

Getting Cheap Ugg Outlet considerable rate UGG Upside Boots, with UGG Boots equally foot with UGG 5918 Sundance Boots shorts or even Cheap UGG Boots pants are fairly fashion UGG Boots sale! uggs inexpensive tips: UGG Boots on sale are ugly acronym UGG Accessories, Unsightly footwear, this UGG Adirondack 5469 Boots particular tiny recognized about UGG 5498 Adirondack Tall Boots this! nationwide UGG Ashur 5760 Boots store boots as UGG 5728 Sundance Limited Edition Chestnut Boots well as UGG Ashur Tall Boots snow is uncommon, pretty numerous UGG Bailey Button Boots mm are utilizing UGG 5592 Brookfield Short Boots the method to be sure that UGG Brookfield Tall Buty Boots abroad purchasers UGG Sunburst Tall 5218 Boots benefiting UGG Broome 5511 Boots from well-known globally UGG Chrysite 5512 Boots brand name UGG Classic Cardy Boots brand name create Uggs

ptucoco said...

Getting Cheap Ugg Outlet considerable rate UGG Upside Boots, with UGG Boots equally foot with UGG 5918 Sundance Boots shorts or even Cheap UGG Boots pants are fairly fashion UGG Boots sale! uggs inexpensive tips: UGG Boots on sale are ugly acronym UGG Accessories, Unsightly footwear, this UGG Adirondack 5469 Boots particular tiny recognized about UGG 5498 Adirondack Tall Boots this! nationwide UGG Ashur 5760 Boots store boots as UGG 5728 Sundance Limited Edition Chestnut Boots well as UGG Ashur Tall Boots snow is uncommon, pretty numerous UGG Bailey Button Boots mm are utilizing UGG 5592 Brookfield Short Boots the method to be sure that UGG Brookfield Tall Buty Boots abroad purchasers UGG Sunburst Tall 5218 Boots benefiting UGG Broome 5511 Boots from well-known globally UGG Chrysite 5512 Boots brand name UGG Classic Cardy Boots brand name create Uggs

ptucoco said...

the UGG 5854 Classic Mini Boots actual UGG within the UGG 3060 Classic Mini Kimono Boots web are some affordable UGG Classic Short Boots non-authentic, UGG Swell Tall Bootsrelaxing and cozy UGG 3161 Classic Short Sparkles Boots organic and natural as well as UGG Classic Tall Boots organic and natural to poor UGG 3063 Classic Tall Kimono Boots more. UGG Ultra Tall 5245 Boots Leopard UGG craze this UGG Corinth Boots 5756 period of your time of your UGG Dauphine 5741 Boots energy is actually truly UGG 5750 Desoto Boots fairly receptive UGG Elsey 5596 Boots inexpensive UGG Ultra Short Boots 5225. Light tan UGG Felicity 5450 Boots, brown and darkish tend to be the UGG Fluff 5304 Boots majority of likely UGG 5531 Fox Boots probably the most normal UGG 8686 Fox Hair Boots near to in the direction of UGG 5749 Gaviota Boots the 3 models, the exterior UGG Gissella 5593 Boots layer near to in the direction UGG 5765 Highkoo Boots of the UGG Jimmy Choo Boots genuine UGG 5835 Tassel Boots UGG sheepskin sheepskin UGG Kensington 5678 Boots may soak up wetness UGG Kids Boots considerably UGG 5899 Womens Sheepskin Boots much better UGG Knightsbridge 5119 Boots than 100 % cotton UGG Knit Boots, functions UGG Ultimate Boots, the within UGG 5181 Kona Boots layer had been cashmere UGG Langley Boots cashmere consists of lanolin UGG Liberty 5509 Boots person getting

ptucoco said...

the UGG 5854 Classic Mini Boots actual UGG within the UGG 3060 Classic Mini Kimono Boots web are some affordable UGG Classic Short Boots non-authentic, UGG Swell Tall Bootsrelaxing and cozy UGG 3161 Classic Short Sparkles Boots organic and natural as well as UGG Classic Tall Boots organic and natural to poor UGG 3063 Classic Tall Kimono Boots more. UGG Ultra Tall 5245 Boots Leopard UGG craze this UGG Corinth Boots 5756 period of your time of your UGG Dauphine 5741 Boots energy is actually truly UGG 5750 Desoto Boots fairly receptive UGG Elsey 5596 Boots inexpensive UGG Ultra Short Boots 5225. Light tan UGG Felicity 5450 Boots, brown and darkish tend to be the UGG Fluff 5304 Boots majority of likely UGG 5531 Fox Boots probably the most normal UGG 8686 Fox Hair Boots near to in the direction of UGG 5749 Gaviota Boots the 3 models, the exterior UGG Gissella 5593 Boots layer near to in the direction UGG 5765 Highkoo Boots of the UGG Jimmy Choo Boots genuine UGG 5835 Tassel Boots UGG sheepskin sheepskin UGG Kensington 5678 Boots may soak up wetness UGG Kids Boots considerably UGG 5899 Womens Sheepskin Boots much better UGG Knightsbridge 5119 Boots than 100 % cotton UGG Knit Boots, functions UGG Ultimate Boots, the within UGG 5181 Kona Boots layer had been cashmere UGG Langley Boots cashmere consists of lanolin UGG Liberty 5509 Boots person getting

ptucoco said...

as well as UGG Mayfaire 5116 Boots protect dermis getting UGG Nightfall 5359 Boots a germicidal effect, and UGG 5597 Boots Oliviya is made of woll pads and UGG Original Sundance 5605 Boots lightweight rubber lone UGG Payton 5654 Boots design, but in add-on to Ugg Peony Boots 5801 produce footwear with terrific UGG 1895 Retro Cargo Boots frost opposition as well as UGG Roseberry Boots 5734 non-slip effect. Uggs and UGG Sandra 5449 Boots exceptional wood UGG 5650 Scuff Romeo Boots design as well as UGG Seline 5595 Boots pattern that permits the UGG Seline Buty Boots actual foot to preserve UGG Sheepskin Boots 1875 temperatures ugg boots UGG 5125 Sheepskin Slippers inexpensive from 25 degrees UGG Shoes Celsius, cozy UGG 5816 Siennar Miller Boots as well as UGG Slippers calming wearing UGG 5733 Suburb Crochet Tall Boots.

ptucoco said...

as well as UGG Mayfaire 5116 Boots protect dermis getting UGG Nightfall 5359 Boots a germicidal effect, and UGG 5597 Boots Oliviya is made of woll pads and UGG Original Sundance 5605 Boots lightweight rubber lone UGG Payton 5654 Boots design, but in add-on to Ugg Peony Boots 5801 produce footwear with terrific UGG 1895 Retro Cargo Boots frost opposition as well as UGG Roseberry Boots 5734 non-slip effect. Uggs and UGG Sandra 5449 Boots exceptional wood UGG 5650 Scuff Romeo Boots design as well as UGG Seline 5595 Boots pattern that permits the UGG Seline Buty Boots actual foot to preserve UGG Sheepskin Boots 1875 temperatures ugg boots UGG 5125 Sheepskin Slippers inexpensive from 25 degrees UGG Shoes Celsius, cozy UGG 5816 Siennar Miller Boots as well as UGG Slippers calming wearing UGG 5733 Suburb Crochet Tall Boots.

ptucoco said...

as well as UGG Mayfaire 5116 Boots protect dermis getting UGG Nightfall 5359 Boots a germicidal effect, and UGG 5597 Boots Oliviya is made of woll pads and UGG Original Sundance 5605 Boots lightweight rubber lone UGG Payton 5654 Boots design, but in add-on to Ugg Peony Boots 5801 produce footwear with terrific UGG 1895 Retro Cargo Boots frost opposition as well as UGG Roseberry Boots 5734 non-slip effect. Uggs and UGG Sandra 5449 Boots exceptional wood UGG 5650 Scuff Romeo Boots design as well as UGG Seline 5595 Boots pattern that permits the UGG Seline Buty Boots actual foot to preserve UGG Sheepskin Boots 1875 temperatures ugg boots UGG 5125 Sheepskin Slippers inexpensive from 25 degrees UGG Shoes Celsius, cozy UGG 5816 Siennar Miller Boots as well as UGG Slippers calming wearing UGG 5733 Suburb Crochet Tall Boots.

LinkWithin

Related Posts with Thumbnails