Monday, December 8, 2008

Rose, reconsidered



Deadline for the drawing for “What the Nose Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday Life” by Avery Gilbert is midnight US EST, December 15th. Leave a comment – any comment -- and you’ll be automatically entered!



Back in the wonderfulness that is July in the South – July 27, to be precise – I wrote five short reviews of rose-based perfumes here. I was a neophyte then, and like most neophytes was convinced that mine was a fresh and authentic view. “I’ll pass on the rose,” I wrote.

Well, wipe the egg off my face; I didn’t know what I was talking about.

It’s not as though I have had an “aha!” experience. It was more like an “aahhhh” experience. Somewhere, I read about Rosine’s “Folie de Rose.” It sounded intriguing enough for a sample order. You know the rest: (1st spray) “OMG, where have you been all my life?!” Followed by deep, prolonged and frequent sniffing. Followed by wearing it out on the town and introducing it to friends. Followed by searching for, and ordering, a Full Bottle, the fragrance equivalent of a Serious Relationship. Something I never do casually.

To be fair to my neophyte self of last July, I have to say that Folie de Rose is classified as a Chypre, my favorite family. The opening is bergamot and coriander, and the rest is the floral mix of jasmine, Tea rose, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose absolute, Ylang-ylang and iris. The base notes are the usual Chypre suspects: oakmoss and patchouli. They’re complemented by vetiver, sandalwood and benzoin. I’m not sure I would have identified this as a rose scent at all, especially at the opening, which is high and dry. On wearing, the scent flows around in a subtle cloud. The rose note dominates the mid tones, humming along until the final drydown, when the oakmoss rises.

It makes sense that a house like Parfums de Rosine, which specializes in all the permutations and combinations of the noble rose, would make the one rose fragrance (so far) that has done this to me, made me hunt down the Amex, break into January’s perfume budget (and part of February’s, to be honest.) Eventually, I hope to try them all.

I have tried a couple of other Rosines: Diabolo Rose, which mixes rose with mint, truly fresh and cool, like a rose water and mint slushee. I bet it would be a really good summer rose fragrance, even in our beastly summers. And Rosa Flamenca; I’m having a little trouble with that one. There’s an odd sharpness verging on a sourness, in the opening, possibly some bitter orange pith -- the bitter oranges of Seville? -- but I can’t name it. Not that I’m much good at that.

But it could be, it just could be, that this is something I don’t get yet.

I’ll try again in six months.



Notes for Diabolo Rose (a “fresh floral”) include centafolia rose, bergamot, “peppered mint,” rose absolute, lily of the valley, peony, amber, musk, sandalwood, tomato leaf and mate leaf.

Notes for Rosa Flamenca (a “floral bouquet”) include neroli, bergamot, green orange peel, petitgrain, orange blossom, rose essence, May rose, jasmine, fig wood, sandalwood, white musk and benzoin resin.

The painting is “Abstraction White Rose 1927” by Georgia O’Keefe.








12 comments:

bookishredhead said...

Okay, I'm hooked. I've got to track this down now and give it a sniff.

Now, can I talk you into trying the L'Artisan Voleur de Rose. It smells like rose hips. It's lovely and memorable.

Lucy said...

I also love the Voleur.
I think rose is coming into a revival...
I'm also thinking of the Montale and Amouage ouds that use rose.

Olfacta said...

Hmmm...I have a couple of VdR samples,but all L'Artisan fragrances disappear very quickly on me. Could try pouring them both into a sprayer and see if they last any longer on clothing.

Elena said...

Dear Olfacta,

We are glad to inform you that your site http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/ is nominated for the best fragrance blog in the competition Fragrantica Blog Awards that organizes Fragranica community.

More about competition you can read here:
http://www.fragrantica.com/?view=blogawards

We wish you a good luck and in case that you win the competition, please, provide us with your email, where we can send the notification and gift certificate from the sponsor of competition Perfume.com.

Best regards,

Elena Knezevic
Fragrantica.com editor
editor@fragrantica.com

Abigail said...

Les Parfums de Rosine is the holy grail of rose perfumes. You've hit the jackpot. I love Diabolo in the summer myself. I also adore, and you might want to try it, Poussiere (powderish/spicy) and Ecume (salty rose) which are both unusual takes on rose. Enjoy!

ScentScelf said...

I'm with Abigail on the Poussiere from Rosine. I've also got a thing for the discontinued BBW Sandalwood Rose...and think that really, the Bulgari Rose Essentiale does a good job of being a straight up rose without being annoying or boring or cloying.

But, I do prefer mine to have a twist of something interesting; hence, the appeal of the Rosines... Have you tried Amouage Lyric? (That's cheating, but still.)

Olfacta said...

Hello Abigail & SS!

When the budget recovers I plan to order decants of the other Rosines that seem appealing (i.e. most of them.) As a soliflore,for me anyway, rose is kinda meh but as an ingredient...who knew? Also the plant -- I've just dug up an underperforming (and constantly afflicted with spots, bugs, etc)hybrid tea, and plan to replace it with a David Austin type -- which still have scents, most modern hybrids don't -- white rose. There is one that has a myrrh-like scent. Sounds interesting.

ScentScelf said...

The David Austin rose will, I think, please you much more in both form and substance...with scent being an important part of the substance.

I used to find rose, well, "meh" as a fragrace, too...but between knowing that some are sensational in the garden (those tend to be antique, and either brief of flower or "meh" to look at) and hearing some raves, I just kept trying until I found one. And then another... :)

Wishing you a healthy plant in your garden...that will help it fend off the bugs, black spot, etcetera.

ptucoco said...

Moncler is truly a Moncler Coats casual and luxurious Moncler Jackets brand name.it's amongst Cheap Moncler Coats one of the Moncler Jackets most well-known Cheap Moncler Jackets manufacturers round the Cheap Moncler Jackets earth because it is Moncler Outlet dedicated to offering Kids Moncler Jackets the very greatest Moncler Jackets 2011 and in addition the most trendy Moncler 2012 clothes.it is Mens Moncler Jackets launched the Mens Moncler Sweaters significant Men's Moncler Coats outlines in order to Men's Moncler Jackets clothing,footwear as well as other Men's Moncler Sweaters Add-ons,for example Moncler Kid's Jackets bags,shower towels Womens Moncler Coats,cap Orheadband and Womens Moncler Jackets so forth.these types of Womens Moncler Down Jackets merchandise may be supplied Womens Moncler Long Down Jackets inside our Moncler 2012 shop.thank you for Moncler Bags likely to buying Womens Moncler Coats. These days,since the Moncler Bags intro associated with Moncler Boots culture,most Womens Moncler Long Down Jackets nations

ptucoco said...

Moncler is truly a Moncler Coats casual and luxurious Moncler Jackets brand name.it's amongst Cheap Moncler Coats one of the Moncler Jackets most well-known Cheap Moncler Jackets manufacturers round the Cheap Moncler Jackets earth because it is Moncler Outlet dedicated to offering Kids Moncler Jackets the very greatest Moncler Jackets 2011 and in addition the most trendy Moncler 2012 clothes.it is Mens Moncler Jackets launched the Mens Moncler Sweaters significant Men's Moncler Coats outlines in order to Men's Moncler Jackets clothing,footwear as well as other Men's Moncler Sweaters Add-ons,for example Moncler Kid's Jackets bags,shower towels Womens Moncler Coats,cap Orheadband and Womens Moncler Jackets so forth.these types of Womens Moncler Down Jackets merchandise may be supplied Womens Moncler Long Down Jackets inside our Moncler 2012 shop.thank you for Moncler Bags likely to buying Womens Moncler Coats. These days,since the Moncler Bags intro associated with Moncler Boots culture,most Womens Moncler Long Down Jackets nations

ptucoco said...

possess Moncler Caps Moncler Outlets and Womens Moncler Down Jackets these times the Moncler Scarf Web store is far Womens Moncler Jackets more common.many clients would like to buy the Moncler Shoes products.our Moncler Boots shop can offer lots of Moncler Caps merchandise,example Moncler Womens Moncler Coats Clothing,Moncler Shoes,Moncler Bags Moncler Vest and so on.our Moncler Moncler Jackets 2011 each one is top quality Moncler Outlet and low-cost cost Moncler Scarf.thanks for likely Moncler Shoes to thank you for purchasing Moncler Vests!

ptucoco said...

possess Moncler Caps Moncler Outlets and Womens Moncler Down Jackets these times the Moncler Scarf Web store is far Womens Moncler Jackets more common.many clients would like to buy the Moncler Shoes products.our Moncler Boots shop can offer lots of Moncler Caps merchandise,example Moncler Womens Moncler Coats Clothing,Moncler Shoes,Moncler Bags Moncler Vest and so on.our Moncler Moncler Jackets 2011 each one is top quality Moncler Outlet and low-cost cost Moncler Scarf.thanks for likely Moncler Shoes to thank you for purchasing Moncler Vests!

LinkWithin

Related Posts with Thumbnails