Saturday, August 9, 2008

Three from the Eighties

Oh, how we love to disparage the Eighties.

Could it be that we were having too much fun then?

Big hair AND highlights AND hoop earrings AND Madonna-esque armloads of bracelets AND, oh, hell, Madonna herself, when she was snotty and cool; ripped, falling-off sweatshirts AND tight leggings AND spike-heeled boots, AND stripes of blush on the cheeks AND…need I go on?

As for the perfumes, well, we all know that nobody could smell much of anything in the Eighties. Can you say, uh, impaired judgment?

But it wasn’t all Giorgio, thank God.

Here are three of the good ones.

Diva Ungaro (extrait) I got this as a present. I didn’t understand chypres then. I thought the orientals were the pinnacle of perfumery, and chypres smelled too sharp to me. I preferred Must de Cartier, the signature scent of the Walk of Shame, circa, oh, 1984 or so.

Now, I know better. It smells wonderful. A rose, but not a dark or musky one. This rose is high and dry. Not even red. Maybe a white rose. Jacques Polge, who is now head perfumer at Chanel, did this, and it smells a lot like No. 22, especially in the EDP. Lots and lots and lots of aldehyde.

Here are the notes: Mandarin, aldehydes, coriander; rosewood, tuberose, cardamom, rose, jasmine, narcissus, carnation, ylang-ylang, patchouli, sandalwood, oak moss, honey, vetiver, civet, musk and labdanum.

No wonder these 80’s scents were powerhouses. The perfumers made them with a cast-iron hand. Look at all that stuff! Patchouli AND musk AND labdanum, seems like overkill now. But what from the Eighties doesn’t?

What the hey. Diva smells great.

Knowing by Estee Lauder (extrait)

I’m not usually a Lauder fan. It’s all so…perfume-y. But the review in The Guide was intriguing. They called it a “mossy rose.”

Tested on blotter paper, it’s a very nice opening. Smooth and green. I got an early top note of some sort of menthol, then a bit of the perfumey base, and, and I thought, oh, no, not that! But then it settled down, put the seat back, and got ready for a good long ride.

On skin, well, my skin sweetens everything. First there was a sort of burnt note, and then a souk-like mid. Heaps of spices in the (funky cold) Medina. Orange-y and rich. Could this be an ancestor of all the incense fragrances we’re getting now?

Then the florals, mixed right away with woods and a bit of patchouli. Never did pick up the oak moss or civet, but I’m sure it’s there!

You know what? This stuff smells damned good. On me, it’s an autumn or winter scent. Warm, rich, spicy and welcoming.

Notes are: Coriander, Orange, Aldehyde, “Green Note”; Rose, Jasmine, Cardamom, Cedar; Patchouli, Oak Moss, Civet.

Paloma Picasso Mon Perfume (somewhat vintage extrait, modern EDP)

The EDP was a TJ Maxx find for me, and it immediately sent me looking for some extrait on Ebay. They’re very different. The EDP has an early brightness. It's strong and very much a chypre. But the extrait – the extrait is brave.

And I loooovvvve this. I don’t care what anybody thinks. It makes me want to drench myself in EDP, dab on too much of the perfume and go find some trouble to get into. I’m not hanging out in some after-hours hotel basement in the dark at 3 a.m. any more, but this stuff makes me feel like I could.

No way is this Martha Quinn’s Eighties. Nothing cute or sprightly about it at all. This is something dark and full of fury and, man, just look at these notes. Clove, May Rose, Jasmine. Orris, castoreum (uh, probably not, nowadays), patchouli. Amber, tobacco and – just in case the message isn’t getting through – cedar, civet and musk.

What else is there to say? Wear it if you can handle it.

Now, of course, there are Rules. Ingredients must be approved by the sober burghers of Brussels, intent upon protecting us from ourselves. Most perfumes made now smell positively wimpy when compared to the vintage scents, but we don’t mind, because we know that the Experts know what is best for us. We don’t smoke or do, well, any of that stuff we used to do. We’re safe and sound.

Yeah? Right.

All of these perfumes are still available from discounters and online retailers, and the vintage versions can sometimes be found on Ebay or in sample/decant form.

Photo of Madonna, circa 1983, by Deborah Feingold.


bookishredhead said...

Ha. We so totally have the same taste in perfume. I wore the Picasso in the late 80s and early 90's. It was a gift from a boyfriend. Everyone told me it was "too old" for me, but I was also wearing Chanel 5 at the time.

Perfumeshrine said...

Nice blog you got here! :-)

The 80s do get a bit of bad rep, but then, they had their moments too!
I like the ones you chose, some more than others (PP being my first choice).
I seem to recall that pittosporum is a protagonist in the Knowing composition, which might further explain the "spicy" hit you're getting.
Castoreum is synthesized today of course, so they're using that instead of the natural.

ptucoco said...

Getting Cheap Ugg Outlet considerable rate UGG Upside Boots, with UGG Boots equally foot with UGG 5918 Sundance Boots shorts or even Cheap UGG Boots pants are fairly fashion UGG Boots sale! uggs inexpensive tips: UGG Boots on sale are ugly acronym UGG Accessories, Unsightly footwear, this UGG Adirondack 5469 Boots particular tiny recognized about UGG 5498 Adirondack Tall Boots this! nationwide UGG Ashur 5760 Boots store boots as UGG 5728 Sundance Limited Edition Chestnut Boots well as UGG Ashur Tall Boots snow is uncommon, pretty numerous UGG Bailey Button Boots mm are utilizing UGG 5592 Brookfield Short Boots the method to be sure that UGG Brookfield Tall Buty Boots abroad purchasers UGG Sunburst Tall 5218 Boots benefiting UGG Broome 5511 Boots from well-known globally UGG Chrysite 5512 Boots brand name UGG Classic Cardy Boots brand name create Uggs

ptucoco said...

the UGG 5854 Classic Mini Boots actual UGG within the UGG 3060 Classic Mini Kimono Boots web are some affordable UGG Classic Short Boots non-authentic, UGG Swell Tall Bootsrelaxing and cozy UGG 3161 Classic Short Sparkles Boots organic and natural as well as UGG Classic Tall Boots organic and natural to poor UGG 3063 Classic Tall Kimono Boots more. UGG Ultra Tall 5245 Boots Leopard UGG craze this UGG Corinth Boots 5756 period of your time of your UGG Dauphine 5741 Boots energy is actually truly UGG 5750 Desoto Boots fairly receptive UGG Elsey 5596 Boots inexpensive UGG Ultra Short Boots 5225. Light tan UGG Felicity 5450 Boots, brown and darkish tend to be the UGG Fluff 5304 Boots majority of likely UGG 5531 Fox Boots probably the most normal UGG 8686 Fox Hair Boots near to in the direction of UGG 5749 Gaviota Boots the 3 models, the exterior UGG Gissella 5593 Boots layer near to in the direction UGG 5765 Highkoo Boots of the UGG Jimmy Choo Boots genuine UGG 5835 Tassel Boots UGG sheepskin sheepskin UGG Kensington 5678 Boots may soak up wetness UGG Kids Boots considerably UGG 5899 Womens Sheepskin Boots much better UGG Knightsbridge 5119 Boots than 100 % cotton UGG Knit Boots, functions UGG Ultimate Boots, the within UGG 5181 Kona Boots layer had been cashmere UGG Langley Boots cashmere consists of lanolin UGG Liberty 5509 Boots person getting

ptucoco said...

as well as UGG Mayfaire 5116 Boots protect dermis getting UGG Nightfall 5359 Boots a germicidal effect, and UGG 5597 Boots Oliviya is made of woll pads and UGG Original Sundance 5605 Boots lightweight rubber lone UGG Payton 5654 Boots design, but in add-on to Ugg Peony Boots 5801 produce footwear with terrific UGG 1895 Retro Cargo Boots frost opposition as well as UGG Roseberry Boots 5734 non-slip effect. Uggs and UGG Sandra 5449 Boots exceptional wood UGG 5650 Scuff Romeo Boots design as well as UGG Seline 5595 Boots pattern that permits the UGG Seline Buty Boots actual foot to preserve UGG Sheepskin Boots 1875 temperatures ugg boots UGG 5125 Sheepskin Slippers inexpensive from 25 degrees UGG Shoes Celsius, cozy UGG 5816 Siennar Miller Boots as well as UGG Slippers calming wearing UGG 5733 Suburb Crochet Tall Boots.