<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621</id><updated>2012-01-24T20:51:52.836-05:00</updated><category term='In Love Again'/><category term='Barbara Bui Le Parfum'/><category term='perfume sample drawing'/><category term='Santa Monica Farmers Market'/><category term='olfaction research'/><category term='fragrance review White Linen'/><category term='Gold'/><category term='Rochas Femme'/><category term='&quot; &quot;No Reservations'/><category term='Arpège'/><category term='Artemisia Natural Perfume'/><category term='leather fragrances'/><category term='Apple'/><category term='Hei Poa'/><category term='history of perfumery'/><category term='Annick Goutal Eau de Ciel'/><category term='Solange &quot;Stoned&quot;'/><category term='summer'/><category term='Christian Dior La Couturier Vetiver'/><category term='miniature perfumes'/><category term='Now Smell This'/><category term='Ormonde Jayne Frangipani'/><category term='&quot; &quot;My Sin'/><category term='Serge Lutens A La Nuit'/><category term='Atlanta'/><category term='Nuits de Tuberose'/><category term='Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia'/><category term='Shalimar perfume'/><category term='tuberose'/><category term='Big Five'/><category term='natural perfumes'/><category term='Habit Rouge'/><category term='olfactory sense'/><category term='parodies'/><category term='Marlene Dietrich'/><category term='perfume bottles'/><category term='Norell'/><category term='Denise Hamilton'/><category term='&quot;Cannabis by Dupetit&quot;'/><category term='Anya&apos;s Garden Perfumes'/><category term='New York'/><category term='Mr. Webber Parfum 6T'/><category term='Moon Drops'/><category term='Mrs. Meyer&apos;s Clean Day'/><category term='Christmas'/><category term='&quot;Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category term='Mad Men'/><category term='Chanel No. 5'/><category term='Avery Gilbert'/><category term='Trefle Pur'/><category term='French perfume'/><category term='ancient perfumes'/><category term='honeysuckle'/><category term='multi-level-marketing'/><category term='Maggie&apos;s Pharmacy Memphis'/><category term='Madame X by Ava Luxe'/><category term='O de Lancome'/><category term='perfume review &quot;L&apos;Aimant&quot;'/><category term='brain hemispheres'/><category term='olfactory art'/><category term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category term='attars'/><category term='Coty'/><category term='painting'/><category term='L&apos;Artisan Fleur d&apos;Oranger'/><category term='Knowing'/><category term='Sniffapalooza 2010'/><category term='perfume criticism'/><category term='technology'/><category term='auctions'/><category term='GPS devices'/><category term='Venice Beach'/><category term='cheap perfume'/><category term='Andy Tauer'/><category term='Apres l&apos;Ondee'/><category term='Anais Anais'/><category term='Fredric Malle'/><category term='flea markets'/><category term='Fleur d&apos; Iris'/><category term='L&apos;Artisan'/><category term='Rose of Cimarron'/><category term='Mitsouko'/><category term='Liz Zorn'/><category term='Mandy Aftel'/><category term='perfume reviews'/><category term='mailing perfume'/><category term='scent'/><category term='Light'/><category term='L&apos;Artisan Al-Oudh'/><category term='perfume advertising parodies'/><category term='perfume shopping'/><category term='Dawn Spencer Hurwitz'/><category term='reformulations'/><category term='WAFT by Carol blog'/><category term='Obama'/><category term='Bernard Duchaufour'/><category term='scent research'/><category term='Miller Harris L&apos;Air de Rein'/><category term='tomato'/><category term='spring fragrances'/><category term='estate sales'/><category term='Black Cashmere'/><category term='&quot;The Lantern&quot;'/><category term='Mona di Orio'/><category term='perfume reviews &quot;Oro&quot; by Roberto Cavalli'/><category term='bourbon balls recipe'/><category term='Serge Lutens Fleur d&apos;Oranger'/><category term='Jeopardy'/><category term='cultural hygiene'/><category term='Chanel No. 22'/><category term='book review of &quot;The Little Book of Perfumes -- The Hundred Classics&quot;'/><category term='perfume blogging'/><category term='Mulled Wine'/><category term='8eJour'/><category term='&quot; perfume review &quot;Paris&quot;'/><category term='A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes'/><category term='Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia'/><category term='chypre perfume'/><category term='Bal a Versailles'/><category term='Jicky'/><category term='Joni Mitchell'/><category term='The Runaways'/><category term='buy perfume'/><category term='&quot; &quot;Le Labo Patchouli 24&quot;'/><category term='making perfume'/><category term='Loulou'/><category term='&quot;Miriam&quot; perfume'/><category term='tag you&apos;re it'/><category term='Silences'/><category term='Juliette Has a Gun Citizen Queen'/><category term='&quot;Madame X&quot; painting'/><category term='fragrance families'/><category term='&quot; perfume reviews'/><category term='cardamom'/><category term='Amouage Lyric'/><category term='Ubar'/><category term='Breath of God'/><category term='perfume review'/><category term='Francesco Vezzoli'/><category term='&quot; &quot;Mad Men'/><category term='&quot;Pefume&quot; by Susan Irvine'/><category term='Parfums de Nicolai'/><category term='book drawing winner'/><category term='Jean-Claude Ellena'/><category term='Reverie du Jardin'/><category term='perfume review Bal a Versailles'/><category term='Ralph Lauren fragrances'/><category term='Perfumer and Flavorist'/><category term='Etienne Aigner Explosive'/><category term='discount perfume'/><category term='vintage perfume'/><category term='Parfums de Beaux Arts'/><category term='Coco Chanel'/><category term='orange blossom perfumes'/><category term='essential oil diffusers'/><category term='Safari'/><category term='natural fragrances'/><category term='Bourbon French Kus-Kus'/><category term='Bellyflowers Perfumes'/><category term='Diabolo Rose'/><category term='Chypre'/><category term='Diva'/><category term='Comme des Garcons'/><category term='pigment'/><category term='Jitterbug Perfume'/><category term='Yatagan'/><category term='lime'/><category term='The Chroma Collection'/><category term='Malaysia'/><category term='Cinnabar'/><category term='Tachikawa Air Force Base'/><category term='perfume samples'/><category term='Perfume Full Bottle Drawing'/><category term='autumn'/><category term='software'/><category term='book &quot;Will You Take Me As I Am Joni Mitchell&apos;s Blue Period&quot; perfume vintage Intimate'/><category term='Tom Ford Grey Vetiver'/><category term='Wired magazine'/><category term='Easter'/><category term='room fragrance'/><category term='Smelly Web Index'/><category term='Avignon'/><category term='Madame Rochas'/><category term='Alaska'/><category term='&quot;Portrait of a Lady&quot;'/><category term='Brian Pera'/><category term='Folie de Rose'/><category term='attars. perfume review Rose Kashmire'/><category term='Sycomore'/><category term='Avon'/><category term='Anya&apos;s Garden'/><category term='perfume marketing'/><category term='Notoriety perfume'/><category term='Amaranthine'/><category term='Premier Figuer'/><category term='Clarins Mascara Fix'/><category term='Michelle Mercer'/><category term='Bourbon balls'/><category term='Amazing by JoAnne Bassett'/><category term='Saturday Night Live'/><category term='Lord&apos;s Jester Perfumes'/><category term='fragrances'/><category term='Opium'/><category term='Manoumalia'/><category term='Joy'/><category term='social networking'/><category term='&quot; perfume'/><category term='Hinoki'/><category term='Ambress'/><category term='Rosine'/><category term='watercolor'/><category term='Special Formula X'/><category term='ObamaRama'/><category term='perfume Tabac Blond'/><category term='flu'/><category term='Belle Starr'/><category term='perfume attars'/><category term='miniature perfume bottles'/><category term='Chanel 22'/><category term='Brian Eno'/><category term='Bandit'/><category term='Beige'/><category term='Andalusia'/><category term='Chandler Burr'/><category term='Lonestar Memories'/><category term='Ava Gardner'/><category term='Eau de Pierlot'/><category term='financial crisis'/><category term='Big Love'/><category term='Fragrantica blogawards'/><category term='Jubilation 25'/><category term='smells'/><category term='Fourth of July'/><category term='art supplies'/><category term='perfumery'/><category term='Guerlain Vetiver'/><category term='tags'/><category term='growing tuberose'/><category term='IFRA regulations'/><category term='cinnamon'/><category term='random thoughts'/><category term='perfume in Atlanta'/><category term='Our Modern Maidens'/><category term='perfume samples drawing'/><category term='&quot;Life&quot; by Keith Richards'/><category term='Kilian Back to Black'/><category term='L&apos;air du desert Marocain'/><category term='Soivohle Perfumes'/><category term='jokes'/><category term='2009'/><category term='perfumista'/><category term='IFRA'/><category term='spices'/><category term='Lanvin'/><category term='Vol de Nuit'/><category term='iPod Nano'/><category term='Musc Ravageur'/><category term='anosmia'/><category term='Ninfeo Mio'/><category term='Del Rae Amoureuse'/><category term='Ipoh'/><category term='Heaven Sent'/><category term='Joan Crawford'/><category term='Molinard de Molinard'/><category term='Fruity Florals'/><category term='vintage Mitsouko'/><category term='White Linen'/><category term='La Rose Jacqueminot'/><category term='by Kilian'/><category term='Angelique Encens'/><category term='My Sin'/><category term='bird feeders'/><category term='fragrance'/><category term='Halloween'/><category term='old lady perfume'/><category term='Rive Gauche'/><category term='Muscs Koublai Khan'/><category term='Fame'/><category term='First Nerve'/><category term='Kath and Kim'/><category term='Les Parfums de Rosine'/><category term='Grand Neroli'/><category term='botanical perfume'/><category term='plumbers'/><category term='2008'/><category term='Ma Griffe'/><category term='Neutrogena body oil'/><category term='perfume ingredients'/><category term='snakes'/><category term='Images'/><category term='Parfums de Nicolai Cologne Solange'/><category term='perfume samples testing'/><category term='cat butt gum'/><category term='IFRA restrictions'/><category term='vintage Rumeur'/><category term='minimalism'/><category term='fragrance reviews'/><category term='Chamade'/><category term='autumn perfumes'/><category term='Zeta'/><category term='Spain'/><category term='perfume making'/><category term='Outlaw Perfumes Event'/><category term='marketing'/><category term='Parfums de Nocolai Odalisque'/><category term='Rose d&apos;Homme'/><category term='Habanita'/><category term='Star Trek'/><category term='New Orleans'/><category term='Harper-Collins'/><category term='perfume marketing retailing'/><category term='Boucheron'/><category term='PureDistance 1 bottle drawing winner'/><category term='Cuir de Lancome'/><category term='parades'/><category term='Teatro Alla Scala'/><category term='&quot;So Pretty&quot;'/><category term='Un Jardin en Mediterranee'/><category term='Los Angeles'/><category term='Miller Harris Fleur Oriental'/><category term='Thanksgiving'/><category term='perfume fragrance'/><category term='wine'/><category term='Black Aoud'/><category term='Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category term='fragrance oils'/><category term='Sniffapalooza'/><category term='Halston Couture'/><category term='Our Dancing Daughters'/><category term='perfume oils'/><category term='Cordoba'/><category term='Safari For Women by Ralph Lauren'/><category term='Jolie Madame'/><category term='Coze'/><category term='Zagorsk'/><category term='Balmain Ivorie'/><category term='Parfumerie Generale'/><category term='perfume online'/><category term='Voile de Jasmin'/><category term='madder'/><category term='bespoke perfume'/><category term='Atelier Cologne'/><category term='trigeminal nerve'/><category term='perfume review Miller Harris &quot;Fleuer Oriental'/><category term='flappers'/><category term='Ormonde Jayne'/><category term='essential oils'/><category term='perfume samples giveaway'/><category term='Osmanthe Yunnan'/><category term='&quot;Miriam&quot;  perfume'/><category term='fragrance shopping'/><category term='Kelly Caleche'/><category term='proprietary'/><category term='pigments'/><category term='WWII'/><category term='&quot;So Pretty&quot; perfume review'/><category term='Scents of the Mediterranean'/><category term='book review of &quot;Coco Chanel An Intimate Life&quot;'/><category term='Best of Perfume 2010'/><category term='Maurice Roucel'/><category term='eau de toilette'/><category term='Le Labo Fleur d&apos;Oranger 27'/><category term='perfume books'/><category term='fragrance samples drawing'/><category term='Deborah Lawrenson'/><category term='Orange Sanguine'/><category term='perfume blog ratings'/><category term='Eau de Turquoise Eau Fraiche'/><category term='Lyric'/><category term='Opium Fleur de Shanghai'/><category term='Tania Sanchez'/><category term='gardening'/><category term='perfume notes identifying perfume notes'/><category term='Le Labo Vetiver 46'/><category term='Chanel'/><category term='Michael Jackson'/><category term='Pentachords winner'/><category term='Cleopatra'/><category term='Dr. Kai-hung Fung'/><category term='Jean-Louis Scherrer 2'/><category term='Gypsy perfume'/><category term='Poussiere de Rose'/><category term='perfume review &quot;Tocade'/><category term='neurophysiology'/><category term='Paul Theroux'/><category term='Givenchy pi'/><category term='fragrance marketing'/><category term='Ava Luxe Egyptian Musk'/><category term='Paloma Picasso'/><category term='fragrance giveaway'/><category term='perfume swapping'/><category term='pink pepper'/><category term='Coco'/><category term='Guerlain'/><category term='Belle Starr Perfume'/><category term='travel'/><category term='Bourbon French Perfume'/><category term='&quot;Damage Control&quot;'/><category term='postmodernism'/><category term='basil'/><category term='Daphne'/><category term='MGM'/><category term='perfume poll'/><category term='Bourbon French Orange Blossom'/><category term='Mac'/><category term='CDG Luxe Champaca'/><category term='Chantecaille'/><category term='The Perfumer&apos;s Apprentice'/><category term='Woman&apos;s Picture'/><category term='Kewdra'/><category term='Rosa Flamenca'/><category term='vintag fragrance'/><category term='Mystery of Musk'/><category term='reviews'/><category term='&quot;The Scent Trail&quot; by Celia Lyttelton'/><category term='perfume in the Twenties'/><category term='Glam'/><category term='perfume off-topic Tool perfume sample drawing'/><category term='Jean Patou'/><category term='Sophia Grosjman'/><category term='L&apos;Ombre Fauve'/><category term='niche perfumery'/><category term='Art in America review'/><category term='perfume review &quot;So Pretty&quot;'/><category term='Drive-By Truckers'/><category term='Miss Balmain'/><category term='book &quot;Just Kids&quot; by Patti Smith'/><category term='Japan'/><category term='color'/><category term='Beatlemania'/><category term='Pentachords'/><category term='Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance'/><category term='US Postal Regulations'/><category term='book review'/><category term='sweet potatoes'/><category term='Bulgari Parfuee au the Vert'/><category term='neuroscience'/><category term='CT scan art'/><category term='pesto'/><category term='Beryl Markham'/><category term='Maharadjah'/><category term='Miss Dior'/><category term='Basenotes awards'/><category term='Nasomatto Black Afgano'/><category term='Cartier'/><category term='Mata Hari perfume'/><category term='Sniffapalooza Fall Ball 2010 review &quot;Paris&quot;'/><category term='Grace Kelly'/><category term='Bois Blonds'/><category term='perfume'/><category term='Unlocking an Unknown event'/><category term='Fleurs de Rocaille'/><category term='the record business'/><category term='Cartier perfumes'/><category term='Orange Star'/><category term='Fleurs de The Rose Bulgare'/><category term='scents for sleeping'/><category term='George Harrison'/><category term='Oolang Infiniti'/><category term='perfume at the beach'/><category term='Christmas yard displays'/><category term='ARTnews'/><category term='Nuit Noire'/><category term='PureDistance 1'/><category term='ScentBar'/><category term='olfaction'/><category term='Olfactory Synesthesia'/><category term='antique stores'/><category term='Rosine Rose d&apos;Homme'/><category term='beauty'/><category term='&quot;Men of a Certain Age'/><category term='Le Must de Cartier'/><category term='Agent Provocateur'/><category term='Kyoto'/><category term='squirrels'/><category term='L&apos;Eau de Issey'/><category term='perfumes'/><category term='perfume samples drawing winner'/><category term='John Singer Sargeant'/><category term='&quot;Zits&quot;'/><category term='Moment Supreme'/><category term='custom fragrance'/><category term='fragrance review L&apos;Eau de Issey'/><category term='&quot;True Blood&quot;'/><category term='Olfactarama'/><category term='turkey'/><category term='ISP changing'/><category term='fragipani perfumes'/><category term='Angeliques Sous La Pluie'/><category term='vacation'/><category term='chypres'/><category term='perfume notes'/><category term='B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful'/><category term='Une Folie de Rose'/><category term='out of service'/><category term='best of'/><category term='Unforgettable'/><category term='scent memory'/><category term='Etat Libre d&apos;Orange'/><category term='Valentine&apos;s Day'/><category term='Southern rock'/><category term='pherenomes'/><category term='Je Suis un Homme'/><category term='Burning Leaves'/><category term='Amouage'/><category term='natural perfume'/><category term='oil paint'/><category term='identifying perfume notes'/><category term='perfumistas'/><title type='text'>OlfactaRama</title><subtitle type='html'>Perfume and its ramifications -- the genie in the bottle</subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default?max-results=100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><link rel='next' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default?start-index=101&amp;max-results=100'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>244</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>100</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1224893624126567473</id><published>2012-01-02T10:09:00.001-05:00</published><updated>2012-01-02T10:11:50.217-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Olfactarama'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><title type='text'>A Break</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQTsGYCRdjI/TwHHR65FbCI/AAAAAAAAAr8/rN_4eHrtPC8/s1600/perfume-bottles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQTsGYCRdjI/TwHHR65FbCI/AAAAAAAAAr8/rN_4eHrtPC8/s320/perfume-bottles.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;As many (well, some) of you know, I’m a visual artist as well as a perfume blogger, and I have a show coming up January 28. I don’t want to insult you with deadline-meeting whatever, so I’m taking a break — I'll be back Tuesday, February 7.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;This year I plan to stress the “Rama” part of “OlfactaRama” a little more. In other words, expand the subject matter a bit, to include other subjects plus perfume. It’s a big world out there. Lots of stuff clamoring for attention.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;So, I’ll see you in a few weeks!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1224893624126567473?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1224893624126567473/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1224893624126567473&amp;isPopup=true' title='10 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1224893624126567473'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1224893624126567473'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2012/01/break.html' title='A Break'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQTsGYCRdjI/TwHHR65FbCI/AAAAAAAAAr8/rN_4eHrtPC8/s72-c/perfume-bottles.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>10</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6590327930461320627</id><published>2011-12-25T10:20:00.000-05:00</published><updated>2011-12-25T10:20:10.902-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Christmas'/><title type='text'></title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A7bceNNQajI/Tvc-ZL0hF0I/AAAAAAAAArw/Vet4fz9Zw80/s1600/dreckoverdone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A7bceNNQajI/Tvc-ZL0hF0I/AAAAAAAAArw/Vet4fz9Zw80/s400/dreckoverdone.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;Merry/Happy, everybody!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;(no, this isn't my house)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;Let's hope the coming year will be filled with light.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6590327930461320627?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6590327930461320627/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6590327930461320627&amp;isPopup=true' title='4 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6590327930461320627'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6590327930461320627'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/12/merryhappy-everybody-no-this-isnt-my.html' title=''/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A7bceNNQajI/Tvc-ZL0hF0I/AAAAAAAAArw/Vet4fz9Zw80/s72-c/dreckoverdone.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>4</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6065465270721365354</id><published>2011-12-19T10:33:00.001-05:00</published><updated>2011-12-19T10:35:24.672-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='George Harrison'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Beatlemania'/><title type='text'>Off Topic: Beatlemania</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v_wQVSj34LY/Tu9YWA9YVFI/AAAAAAAAArk/4wvPOfHEW9Y/s1600/George+on+train.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="296" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v_wQVSj34LY/Tu9YWA9YVFI/AAAAAAAAArk/4wvPOfHEW9Y/s400/George+on+train.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I don’t know if you saw Martin Scorcese’s two-part documentary about George Harrison that was on HBO recently, but I did, and have rarely seen anything so affecting. The next day I was poking around the web looking for another photo and I came across this one.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;He’s about twenty here, I think. Twenty.&amp;nbsp; A twenty-year-old man, er, &lt;i&gt;boy.&lt;/i&gt; Now imagine the train car’s corridor — the viewer’s POV — filled with shoving, hustling photographers; blinding flashbulbs, buzzes and clicks. And then his face: the taking-it-all-in-stride studied nonchalance betrayed by his own clenched jaw. He was just a kid, when this was taken, one who grew up without indoor plumbing.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I wonder about the girl, too. What she’s doing now. Probably someone’s grandmother. Does she know this photo exists?&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I was too young to understand the armies of screaming girls surrounding the Beatles. Not hormonal yet, or something. I do remember Harrison’s face, the intense, nearly black, eyes, the sense he always seemed to have of being present, in those moments of insanity, but not really there. And then, what came later, the mysticism, the Maharishi, Layla, the landed eccentricity, his sad early death.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;What does this photo say to you?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;I have searched in vain for a photo credit here. This looks like a photo from &lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Life,&lt;/span&gt; but an hour or so spent viewing their Beatles photos has come up &lt;i&gt;nil&lt;/i&gt;. If anyone out there knows, please tell me! I’d love to offer proper credit.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6065465270721365354?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6065465270721365354/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6065465270721365354&amp;isPopup=true' title='4 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6065465270721365354'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6065465270721365354'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/12/off-topic-beatlemania.html' title='Off Topic: Beatlemania'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v_wQVSj34LY/Tu9YWA9YVFI/AAAAAAAAArk/4wvPOfHEW9Y/s72-c/George+on+train.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>4</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6568347640768774193</id><published>2011-12-12T13:31:00.000-05:00</published><updated>2011-12-12T13:31:55.813-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Chanel'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Coco Chanel'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='book review of &quot;Coco Chanel An Intimate Life&quot;'/><title type='text'>Book Review: "Coco Chanel -- An Intimate Life"</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8gPbkAoCwCY/TuZHnlUgwCI/AAAAAAAAArc/azc4c8cjsbE/s1600/chanel+book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8gPbkAoCwCY/TuZHnlUgwCI/AAAAAAAAArc/azc4c8cjsbE/s320/chanel+book.jpg" width="214" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Coco Chanel An Intimate Life” is a good book.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I have not read any of the other books, around 60 of them, that have been written about her, although I did see the film “Coco Before Chanel,” in which she was played quite sympathetically by Audrey Tatou. Truth be told, I’ve&amp;nbsp; never been all that interested in her, so I really can’t compare this book to any of the others. I’m much more interested in her now.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;Fans of Madame Chanel will be familiar with the trajectory of her life, the orphanage, the leapfrogging over different well-placed men, the WWII years spent living at the Ritz in Paris and so on. Here’s what I kept thinking about, over and over: this woman was raised like an animal. Deserted, left in a shelter, then ejected to scratch out a lowly place in the world as a seamstress. What was it about her? Was it her times? Or was it something else?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Nowadays, in the U.S., children are viewed as hothouse flowers; delicate little creatures whose precious self-esteem is everything. I remember the comedian Bill Maher recounting an encounter he had with a boy around eighteen, who swaggered up to him in the street, saying “Dude. I’m gonna be on your show one day!” Astounded at this, he says, “Why? Why should you be on my show, &lt;i&gt;dude&lt;/i&gt;? What can you do?” The kid has no answer. Finally he says “I just will, dude!” Lots of self-esteem, there. Based on nothing.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;In the earliest available photo of Gabrielle Chanel, taken about 1904, she stares out at the world, as fierce as a badger. Beautiful enough as a young woman to draw many men; wily enough to pick the rich ones. Made mistress to one of them, Etienne Balsan, she could have just been that, as others like her had; been a &lt;i&gt;grisette &lt;/i&gt;— a sort of early version of an arts groupie who dabbles. She chose otherwise. She opened her own hat shop, not realizing that her lover Arthur Capel was making bank deposits on her behalf, to keep his little Gabrielle in business so she’d be occupied in the afternoons. When he confesses that, it is her reaction that tells us what she’ll become. When he announces his intent to marry an Englishwoman of his own class, her determination only hardens.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Cheny traces her trajectory, from upper-class resort Deauville (fish where the fish are!) to &lt;i&gt;atelier&lt;/i&gt; in Paris, friendships and projects with the likes of Cocteau and Diaghilev, and affairs with many men, Picasso, Stravinsky, and Bend D’Or, a.k.a. the Second Duke of Westminster, among them. During this time, she rises to success with her simple couture clothing, designed for corset-less ease. Chemise lines. Black and white. Flat shoes. Costume jewelry. All classics, today. “A dress is artificial, fabricated” she says, and, in a pronouncement predating “The Devil Wears Prada’s” Miranda by, oh, some seventy years or so, “No one is powerful enough to be more powerful than fashion.”&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;More myths drift around the creation of Chanel No. 5. Apparently, Chanel had an obsession with cleanliness, not at all surprising given her childhood. Speaking of the society women she encountered early in her rise, she said “They were dirty.” Unwashed. Given to powerful floral perfumes to disguise it. She had in mind a clean perfume, one designed to scent a clean body, one that, like her designs, would be modern; unabashedly fabricated. It was her acquaintance with Ernest Beaux, one of the first perfumers familiar with aldehydes, that led to it, and, ultimately, to Chanel’s status as a household name.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Tarnishing her reputation forever is Chanel’s war years “horizontal collaboration” with Baron von Dincklage, an officer of the Third Reich. It is true that Chanel spent much of the war living at the Ritz in Paris; it appears that she did what she felt she had to do, although she apparently continued the relationship after the war ended. Chaney asks us to consider her instinct for survival, and it fits her character, certainly, although it doesn’t redeem her.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Coco Chanel - An Intimate Life” seems to me to be a factual look at one of the first modern women. Who knows where her doggedness came from? I’ve known many people with wretched upbringings that have made them weak, not strong. We are oriented toward psychology in this age, and many excuses get made. So, what was it about her?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I still don’t know.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I do know, after reading this book, that Coco Chanel was not Nice. Had she been "nice" -- compliant, knowing her place -- chances are we would never have heard of her. She would lived as a &lt;i&gt;grisette&lt;/i&gt;, or courtesan, until the inevitable aging took her allure, and then, in the best-case scenario, perhaps eked out an allowance from a sentimental ex-lover. But this is just speculation. The fact is that she seems to have been born with the fierceness, talent and — some would say — lack of scruples that put her on top of her world and have kept her name alive in ours.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Coco Chanel An Intimate Life” is available in all the usual places. The ISBN is 978-0-670-02309-7.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;Full disclosure time: This book was sent to me by its publisher, Viking, for review.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span id="goog_1481569090"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span id="goog_1481569091"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6568347640768774193?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6568347640768774193/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6568347640768774193&amp;isPopup=true' title='7 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6568347640768774193'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6568347640768774193'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/12/book-review-coco-chanel-intimate-life.html' title='Book Review: &quot;Coco Chanel -- An Intimate Life&quot;'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8gPbkAoCwCY/TuZHnlUgwCI/AAAAAAAAArc/azc4c8cjsbE/s72-c/chanel+book.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>7</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-2375536190035917055</id><published>2011-12-05T13:52:00.000-05:00</published><updated>2011-12-05T13:52:04.620-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Chanel No. 5'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Coco Chanel'/><title type='text'>Delving Into Chanel No. 5</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M3dZf4QfDic/Tt0Q71M1aKI/AAAAAAAAArM/HwJpWxNdQHQ/s1600/Chanel-bottles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M3dZf4QfDic/Tt0Q71M1aKI/AAAAAAAAArM/HwJpWxNdQHQ/s320/Chanel-bottles.jpg" width="260" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I’ve been reading the new book “Coco Chanel An Intimate Life” by Lisa Chaney — review next week — so have become more interested in Chanel No. 5 than before. (This is probably an admission of heresy for a perfume blogger, I know.) Having the requisite ¼ ounce bottle of the parfum and a little bit left in a 1 oz. coffret bottle of the Eau de Toilette I bought years ago, I didn’t think I needed to explore the subject further. I thought: really, what’s there to say about No. 5 that hasn’t already been said, and said better?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Then I went to an estate sale last Friday. I spotted a nearly full 2-oz. bottle of Chanel No. 5 Eau de Cologne, and bought it for ten bucks. It looked old, but one can never be sure with No. 5 — I’ve avoided buying it on Our Favorite Auction Site, as it’s the most likely of all perfumes to be fake. It smelled very different from either of my early 90’s versions, and I wondered if I'd been burned. I’ve been doing research on it all morning, have found that it is real, and could actually be significantly old, since the Eau de Cologne formula was discontinued some time in the 90’s. (The bottles are pictured to the left.)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The label has a very different typeface than the modern ones, finer sans serif lettering in a different arrangement than is used now on Chanel bottles — the “Eau De Cologne” is above the No5, and the name “Chanel” is at the bottom. The circled double C logo on the top is etched into the material — probably plastic, maybe bakelite, it’s hard to tell — whereas, on the new bottles, it looks and feels painted on. The back of the bottle reads “Chanel, Inc. New York Distributor,” painted on. The bottom has the word "Chanel" embossed, and, below it, the number 8.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Generally, I don’t give a rat’s about bottles. This one intrigued me, though, because its contents don’t smell like any other formulation of No. 5 I’ve tried. I get old aldehydes at first, of course, but then there is a slightly soapy, dark, nearly masculine quality. Aspects of it remind me of an old 60’s bottle of “Woodhue” cologne I have, which, I’ve been told, is chock-full of nitro musks, and I think maybe this is, too. I don’t really know, though, because I’ve only been able to date it as being sometime between 1951 and the 90’s. I read that the “New York Distributor” phrase on the back was used between the late 40’s through the 50’s. I found a print ad from 1969 showing the same label as my bottle, but without anything on the back — although that doesn’t mean much; it might have been airbrushed out for aesthetic reasons.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;A couple of months ago, a neighbor saw me outside, and rushed over with an empty Chanel ¼ oz. perfume bottle that had been his mother-in-law’s. He was sure it was a rare and valuable treasure. It was probably from the 80’s, as best as I could guess, and I didn’t have the heart to tell him that there were approximately a million of them just like it out there. This is what bottle buyers go through, I suppose. I referred him to a &lt;a href="http://chanelperfumebottles.webs.com/"&gt;Chanel perfume bottle dating site&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Anyway, what I find to be interesting about all this is the different formulas for No. 5. My 90’s EDT smells of jasmine, a synthetic one, as I’ve read that only the parfum uses real jasmine or rose any more (and who knows if they still do.) The perfume is very different from that, sweeter, with a mellowness that says “naturals” to my nose — and there probably were at least some in the early 90’s. The old EDC screams aldehydes, almost like My Sin or Lanvin’s Rumeur. It could be that the midnotes are just degraded, though; eventually, it sweetens a little and becomes recognizable.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I’ve read that there have been around 60 books written about Coco Chanel, at least two films, and more books coming out. She was this; she was that, no she wasn’t, yes she was! She seems to me to have been a fierce sort of chameleon, someone who could, and did, adapt. All these versions of this perfume, her most enduring product — the formulae, the bottles, labels, fakes, controversy, quibbling over detail — could turn out to be her most recognizable legacy.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Any Chanel bottle experts out there? Fill me in!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Full review of “Coco Chanel An Intimate Life” will appear here next week.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-2375536190035917055?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/2375536190035917055/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=2375536190035917055&amp;isPopup=true' title='6 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2375536190035917055'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2375536190035917055'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/12/delving-into-chanel-no-5.html' title='Delving Into Chanel No. 5'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M3dZf4QfDic/Tt0Q71M1aKI/AAAAAAAAArM/HwJpWxNdQHQ/s72-c/Chanel-bottles.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>6</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-500940304594360858</id><published>2011-11-28T13:12:00.000-05:00</published><updated>2011-11-28T13:12:43.730-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='vintage perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Loulou'/><title type='text'>Like Nothing Else: Loulou</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMmbvXR7m8U/TtPNUo3I-QI/AAAAAAAAArE/57uFkQrsUos/s1600/Orient+Matisse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMmbvXR7m8U/TtPNUo3I-QI/AAAAAAAAArE/57uFkQrsUos/s320/Orient+Matisse.jpg" width="221" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I wondered if there was anything in my collection that was truly unique. That really didn’t smell like anything else.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Awhile back, I’d made a purchase of 40 or so minis, always a risk because minis are usually the first to go “off.” I lucked out, though. Only a few had. The rest — vintage Caleche, Ombre Rose, even the original Chloe — were still good. Among them was a strange, squat hexagonal blue bottle with a maroon spire cap: Loulou. I vaguely recognized it. I put it away for further reference.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Last week I finally got around to smelling it.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;This does not smell like anything else I have. I think it’s one of those Rashomon perfumes — eight blind men, one elephant, eight widely varying guesses. Reading comments here and there on the forums, I seen everything from “too sweet” to “tuberose,” and I wonder, once again, if they’re just smelling something I can’t.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;To me, “Loulou” is anything but sweet. It’s heavy and dark, full of wood and spice; cassis, a little jasmine, the herbaceous flower tagetes, plum (skin, not flesh.)&amp;nbsp; Aldehydes. Some heliotrope, certainly not enough to make it sweet! I’ve seen it compared to L’Huere Bleue, but to my nose they’re no more than minimally similar. (Having just applied a little LHB vintage extract to my other hand, I can see the resemblance, but this A to B comparison leads me to a new “note” in Loulou — coffee. That is to say, molecules assembled in such a way as to remind me of coffee. And I haven’t seen “coffee” listed anywhere else.)&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Notes.” More and more, we hear they’re marketing-speak, nothing more; useful to prospective buyers, as one wants to have some idea about what one is getting, more or less. From reading descriptions of “Loulou,” it would appear that one is getting The Eighties in a bottle — “a frag with shoulder pads,” somebody said.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Well, I don’t think so. It’s true that this is powerful stuff. And I guess it does have something in common with Opium, the darkness and spices. But there is much more of the former than the latter here. When I think of the Eighties I think Little-Shop-of-Horrors tuberose: choose your Poison. This isn’t that. This is a truly dark, mysterious scent, a &lt;i&gt;femme fatale&lt;/i&gt; perfume if there ever was one, reaching much further back into time than The Eighties. (The name “Loulou” refers to Louise Brooks, with the Twenties pageboy bob.)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;My little mini is vintage, made of the same opaline glass as the big bottle (the spire top, though, is plastic). Judging from the label on the bottom, it’s pretty old. And I swear I keep smelling castoreum in there somewhere.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;LouLou isn’t discontinued. It’s available on the discounters for a song, although it’s in a big ordinary bottle and, dollars to doughnuts, the bottle is plastic and the scent inside is reformulated beyond recognition, at least compared to the mini I have. Maybe that’s what all the commenters who call it “sweet” have been smelling. These minis like mine, though, show up all over, and they’re not expensive; around ten bucks usually for the EDP.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I will wear this out some night, the kind of night where I might otherwise wear L’Ombre Fauve — one that calls for some dark, sultry scent. One I know the DH will like, because he’s already told me he does. I’d like to see what others say about it. I think it’s in the same conceptual ballpark as the real (read: wildly expensive) ouds.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The garish colors of the bottle, the maroon and cyan, aren’t about the Eighties, either. They were used by Matisse often enough to become associated with him.&amp;nbsp; That’s one his paintings, “The Casbah Door,” from 1912.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Loulou” was released in 1987. The perfumer was Jean Guichard, who also did “Obsession” for Calvin Klein.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The painting image came from&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.henri-matisse.net/paintingselect.html"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-500940304594360858?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/500940304594360858/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=500940304594360858&amp;isPopup=true' title='5 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/500940304594360858'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/500940304594360858'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/11/like-nothing-else-loulou.html' title='Like Nothing Else: Loulou'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rMmbvXR7m8U/TtPNUo3I-QI/AAAAAAAAArE/57uFkQrsUos/s72-c/Orient+Matisse.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>5</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-3929003368338135910</id><published>2011-11-21T10:21:00.002-05:00</published><updated>2011-11-22T07:52:57.410-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='sweet potatoes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='bourbon balls recipe'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Thanksgiving'/><title type='text'>A Southern Thanksgiving Classic: Sweet Potato Casserole with a Praline Crust</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-29z0b1r_AEA/TspqQBR39lI/AAAAAAAAAq8/_wIY5bVKAqA/s1600/Happy-Thanksgivingedit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="158" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-29z0b1r_AEA/TspqQBR39lI/AAAAAAAAAq8/_wIY5bVKAqA/s400/Happy-Thanksgivingedit.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;Happy Thanksgiving, y'all!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I make this every year, but only once...&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;A “praline” is a divine regional candy, made with sugars, butter, nuts and vanilla.&amp;nbsp; If you can’t get pecans, use walnuts.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;2 large eggs, slightly beaten&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;1 cup granulated (white) sugar&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;1 3/4 cup brown sugar, divided&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;1 teaspoon vanilla&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;5 cups (3 large or 4 medium) sweet potatoes*, peeled, boiled and mashed (don’t used canned, too mushy)&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;1 cup all-purpose flour&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;1 cup finely chopped pecans&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, melted&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Spray a 9 x 13 x 2 inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray or or rub with softened butter.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;In a large bowl, beat the eggs, granulated sugar and 3/4 cup brown sugar together. Add the softened butter and vanilla; mix until creamy. &amp;nbsp;Stir in the sweet potatoes (it's OK if there are some lumps)&amp;nbsp;and pour into the prepared baking dish.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;In a small bowl, combine the remaining cup of brown sugar, flour, pecans and melted butter. Spread on top of potatoes. Bake 45 minutes.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;*in some regions these are called “yams.”&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Calories, fat grams, etc: You don’t want to know. Hey, it’s Thanksgiving!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-3929003368338135910?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/3929003368338135910/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=3929003368338135910&amp;isPopup=true' title='4 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3929003368338135910'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3929003368338135910'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/11/southern-thanksgiving-classic-sweet.html' title='A Southern Thanksgiving Classic: Sweet Potato Casserole with a Praline Crust'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-29z0b1r_AEA/TspqQBR39lI/AAAAAAAAAq8/_wIY5bVKAqA/s72-c/Happy-Thanksgivingedit.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>4</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-4610281654789597653</id><published>2011-11-14T17:55:00.000-05:00</published><updated>2011-11-14T17:55:19.173-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><title type='text'>Random Thoughts at 3 a.m.</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_iW27Tb8T3Y/TsGZ4HcYggI/AAAAAAAAAq0/6mJuEiAQXsc/s1600/dreamstime_xs_18152738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_iW27Tb8T3Y/TsGZ4HcYggI/AAAAAAAAAq0/6mJuEiAQXsc/s320/dreamstime_xs_18152738.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The EU is in the process of, or already has, banned (are you ready?) &lt;i&gt;balloons&lt;/i&gt;. It seems that a child could choke on one while blowing it up.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;How did I ever survive my childhood?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;My first job? Filling balloons with helium at a theme park. Most common request from customers? “Don’t tie a knot in it!” First surreal experience? Watching 12-year-olds lurch around talking like Donald Duck.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Caron’s En Avion — smells like a refo; dentist’s-office clove and something ghastly sweet. The older stuff must have been great, though.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I smell a ghost.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;SmartPhones don’t make you smarter. They do make their users stop in the middle of the aisle to read whatever is so important, thereby causing shopping cart pile-ups. I personally saw three of them yesterday.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;(Why do you think they call them “users?”)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Hung” (HBO) was a surprise last season. Very good writing and characterization. This season? I think they replaced the writers with a bunch of high school boys. Even “Ray” looks embarrassed to be in this sleazy mess.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Last night: EL’s Tuberose Gardenia. Firmly in Fracas territory. Is this being discontinued?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I sold a couple of old drawings last week. Made just enough to pay for the print rack I had to buy to display them.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Parfumerie Generale’s “L’Ombre Fauve” — could well be the quintessential fall fragrance.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;(Ever notice how the declarative statement has disappeared from the lexicon? Now it’s “possibly” and “quite possibly” and “just may be” and “could well be” — see above — instead. What does this say about American culture?)&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I think it’s the troll living in Mom’s basement at age 35 that we’re all scared of. You know the one. Has nothing better to do than research obscurities, then write complaint letters whenever some hapless writer gets some factoid Wrong.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;(Well, him — funny how it’s always a him — and the lawyers.)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;New HBO show: “Enlightened.” Starring the woefully underappreciated Laura Dern (who also conceived and developed it.) Goofy, scary character you can’t help but root for, trying to retain her humanity in the horrifying modern workplace.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;European readers — still think the EU is a good idea? (This isn’t snark. I would really like to hear your thoughts.)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Balloon photo used under much too expensive license from&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://dreamstime.com/"&gt;Dreamstime.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-4610281654789597653?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/4610281654789597653/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=4610281654789597653&amp;isPopup=true' title='8 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/4610281654789597653'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/4610281654789597653'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/11/random-thoughts-at-3-am.html' title='Random Thoughts at 3 a.m.'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_iW27Tb8T3Y/TsGZ4HcYggI/AAAAAAAAAq0/6mJuEiAQXsc/s72-c/dreamstime_xs_18152738.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>8</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-5458269690872238986</id><published>2011-11-07T19:30:00.006-05:00</published><updated>2011-11-08T07:05:34.245-05:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Solange &quot;Stoned&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume review Miller Harris &quot;Fleuer Oriental'/><title type='text'>Compare and Contrast: Stoned</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2SDvLcz9ZqE/TrgPNsM1VxI/AAAAAAAAAqs/_Hn6gmNTqP0/s1600/Stoned.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2SDvLcz9ZqE/TrgPNsM1VxI/AAAAAAAAAqs/_Hn6gmNTqP0/s400/Stoned.jpg" width="265" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;More and more, I love perfumer Lyn Harris’ work. There is a suggestion of bitterness in the bottom notes of the Harris creations I’ve tried that just sort of sends me. Somewhere along the line I developed a taste for that; I even like Campari, which when mixed with soda produces a supremely bitter aperitif I haven’t found a match for to this day.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Both of these have been out for awhile. I became a convert to “Fleur Oriental” when, during our icy winter of last year, I picked up a ratty acrylic sweater on which I’d sprayed it the previous day, and got, well, high on the scent. There’s no better way to describe it. At that point it had dried down to a slightly bitter heliotrope-based powder.&amp;nbsp; I realized that here was the perfect sleep scent, home alone scent, studio scent — in other words, it’s domestic, but hardly domesticated. It’s a little like “Habanita’s” drydown, without the choke factor that one sometimes produces.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Stoned,” concocted by Lyn Harris for Solonge,&amp;nbsp; isn’t as unusual. It’s opulent and gorgeous, in that way that keeps you smelling your wrist all day. It opens with a bergamot/citrus top and slides smoothly down into florals — rose and jasmine, mostly —&amp;nbsp; but they’re subtle. I’m thinking these must be natural absolutes (at this price point they should be) or at least there are some in there. Other notes say labdanum, but I don’t smell the resin or the tar. I do smell the Bourbon vanilla. This has been compared to Shalimar, and although it’s in that arena, it's smoother, without that one's &amp;nbsp;tarry growl. Nothing unusual here, just a beautiful perfume. The “diamond dust” which is supposed be mixed into the fragrance, um, that — well,&amp;nbsp; that’s just too silly to discuss.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The perfume is called “Stoned,” because the fragrance comes from jeweler-to-the-stars Solange Azagury-Partridge. It refers to gems, not the outcome of some illegal activity. Azagury-Partridge’s work, particularly her rings, can be found adorning the fingers of many movie stars appearing on the covers of many magazines. The bottle is…well, unusual — sort of like a garnet-red spiny blowfish, with a fertility goddess figure on top. It would certainly command attention on anyone’s vanity table! “Fleur Oriental” comes in a relatively unadorned bottle, as with the other perfumes in Harris’ line, Miller Harris.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Assuming that you can pay the price, I think that “Stoned” would make a great gift. (Of course, it would have to be for somebody you really like, a lot; you, maybe?) They’re both great fragrances. Of the two, I think the Fleur Oriental is the most daring, opening nutty, almost meaty, followed by a clean and spacious carnation/clove, a green undertone and then the slightly bitter powdery drydown. “Stoned,” when it dries down, has just the merest touch of that; except for “Rein,” the other Miller Harris scents I’ve tried have it as a sort of signature, too.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Stoned” isn’t easy to find. Certainly, the discounters I’ve checked don’t seem to have it. Didn’t see it on ebay either. Nope; this one is going to be Full Retail (or a decant). The Miller Harris line does appear on Amazon, with widely varying discounts.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Something tells me it’s going to be another cold winter here in the U.S. These va-va-voom orientals just don’t make it in summer, at least on my skin. But it won’t be summer again for quite awhile.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Notes for “Stoned” include Italian bergamot, classic rose, jasmine absolute, labdanum, tree moss, musk and vanilla bourbon. 100 mls retails for around $285.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Notes for “Fleur Oriental” include carnation, Turkish rose, Indian jasmine, amber, vanilla, sweet musk, heliotrope, orange flower.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Full disclosure: I got my decants from a friend and a swap.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;The photo of Arizona’s Antelope Slot Canyon is by Chief Tsosie, of &amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.antelopeslotcanyon.com/"&gt;AntelopeSlotCanyon&lt;/a&gt;, by way of Google Images.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-5458269690872238986?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/5458269690872238986/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=5458269690872238986&amp;isPopup=true' title='2 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/5458269690872238986'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/5458269690872238986'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/11/compare-and-contrast-stoned.html' title='Compare and Contrast: Stoned'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2SDvLcz9ZqE/TrgPNsM1VxI/AAAAAAAAAqs/_Hn6gmNTqP0/s72-c/Stoned.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>2</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6797122609072137736</id><published>2011-10-31T12:28:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-10-31T12:28:56.267-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='book review of &quot;The Little Book of Perfumes -- The Hundred Classics&quot;'/><title type='text'>Book Review: “The Little Book of Perfumes - The Hundred Classics” by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNaUpYZMCvc/Tq7K1dWsabI/AAAAAAAAAqk/6oMjs2NKLbk/s1600/little-book-of-perfumes-the-hundred-classics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNaUpYZMCvc/Tq7K1dWsabI/AAAAAAAAAqk/6oMjs2NKLbk/s200/little-book-of-perfumes-the-hundred-classics.jpg" width="111" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;I’ve been blessed (cursed, sometimes) with a good memory. When “Perfumes:&amp;nbsp; The Guide” came out, I had just begun blogging and was — hey, I’ll just say it — obsessed. I pre-ordered it online. But I got a message saying something about slower than anticipated delivery, so I went to Borders and bought it the day it came out.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I was with a friend that day. Standing in the store, she asked me to look up a perfume for her, something her husband had bought her once that she treasured. The review turned out to be one of those delightfully snarky pans, something about making sure all the windows in the house were open before applying. Her face fell. I closed the book. “It’s subjective,” I said. “Just somebody’s opinion.” But I could tell that she would never think of that perfume in the same way again.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I bring this up because this new tome is much more upbeat. Minimum snark. Classics (old and new) only.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I cut my fragrance-writing teeth on “Perfume: The Guide” and I bet a lot of you did, too. I knew next to nothing about this art in those days. It was like a survey course, Fragrance 1A, taught by one of those profs students love — the irreverent ones — who also tend to be wildly opinionated. And “The Guide” saved me money. Otherwise I might have wasted it on refos, a.k.a reformulations. It also cost me money (vintage Mitsouko perfume, I’m looking at you!) I figure I’ve come out about even, if you don’t count the many bottles of vintage classics I’ve bought on Our Favorite Online Auction Site. I have no regrets about that, though.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;One of my friends is a potential &lt;i&gt;perfumista.&lt;/i&gt; We talk about perfume a lot when we’re together. I’ve given her some of my old samples. We’ve done a couple of bottle splits. She has bookmarked the major online discounters, and even bought a bottle from one. Hence, she now has a favorite fragrance that almost no one but me (and you) has ever heard of (hint: it’s “Oro” by Roberto Cavalli). This book will make the perfect Christmas gift for her.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;And, of course, that’s the intent. It’s small enough to fit into anything but a tiny handbag. Hardcover; will last. Not too expensive, suggested retail 18-something U.S. I’ve thumbed through it, read some favorite reviews with nostalgic affection, noted the new material, noted new reviews of the refos, the editorial about them, the fine writing (that hasn’t changed). The grouchiness, charm and command of the subject that both the writers have. It’s still a great read.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;This book isn’t necessarily for real fumefreaks, who are likely to have both of the older books as well as access to a small army of perfume writers and reviewers in the blogosphere. It’s for our friends, the ones who like perfume but may not be quite as, er,&amp;nbsp;&lt;i&gt; focused&lt;/i&gt; as we are. Those not necessarily willing to plow through the online ads, “reviews” written by somebody in the sales department, shady discounters that change their names a lot, fora full of educated and not-so-educated opinion, and on and on. They just want to know if something’s good.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;So, if you have one or more of these pals that haven’t quite crossed over, get them this for Christmas. That’s what it’s for.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Full disclosure time: this book was sent to me by Viking, the publisher, for review.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Available wherever books are sold; the ISBN is: 978-0-670-02310-3.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6797122609072137736?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6797122609072137736/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6797122609072137736&amp;isPopup=true' title='4 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6797122609072137736'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6797122609072137736'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/10/book-review-little-book-of-perfumes.html' title='Book Review: “The Little Book of Perfumes - The Hundred Classics” by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNaUpYZMCvc/Tq7K1dWsabI/AAAAAAAAAqk/6oMjs2NKLbk/s72-c/little-book-of-perfumes-the-hundred-classics.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>4</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1204116868532978469</id><published>2011-10-24T18:00:00.015-04:00</published><updated>2011-10-25T07:07:38.158-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Wired magazine'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='IFRA regulations'/><title type='text'>Wired</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WZ9i04NoCM4/TqWVDc8TYlI/AAAAAAAAAqc/VWpC9d7ZUJI/s1600/perfumebottledanger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WZ9i04NoCM4/TqWVDc8TYlI/AAAAAAAAAqc/VWpC9d7ZUJI/s320/perfumebottledanger.jpg" width="239" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I don’t read “Wired” much. &amp;nbsp;But, as far as I know, they have published the first mainstream&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.wired.com/magazine/2011/10/ff_perfume/"&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;on the brave new perfume world, and it’s worth a look, even if you know all about the controversies. Here’s the thing: it strives to be fair.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Read it and weep.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Author Courtney Humphries is a graduate of MIT’s Graduate Program in Science Writing. It shows in her approach. She touches all the bases of the modern perfume story: 2 billion dollar industry, IFRA hopes to stave off the take-no-prisoners EU by self-regulating, 174 restricted ingredients including rose oil and jasmine absolute, the fear of image problems cutting into profits, and so on. None of this is news here, except maybe the number of ingredients (174? Really?). But then she describes what, for me anyway, is a scenario right out of some hellish science fiction movie.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Givaudan now uses a system in which its perfumers work within a database of regulatory information: &amp;nbsp;3,000 materials, overseen by 75 safety experts and three robots who actually do the mixing. The software that runs them has built into it all the regulations, of course, but what struck me as completely draconian is this: &lt;i&gt;they won’t mix anything that is not IFRA compliant.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I guess if I was a professional big-time perfumer, I’d see this as something of a convenience, and a shield. I wouldn’t spend months or years working on a fragrance doomed by a speck too much of this or that. I’d be protected from litigation, presumably, if somebody got a rash.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;So why does it seem so chilling?&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Wellll….the digital divide, maybe. Humphries mentions that all of this doesn’t seem to bother the younger perfumers as much as it bothers, say, Luca Turin, and of course us perfume writers and bloggers who mourn a lost art.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;I’ve realized that privacy is an outmoded concept too. Having recently acquired an iPhone, I've also been informed by Apple that all my stuff — contacts, website, music and photo library, you name it — is going to The Cloud soon. Mind? Why would I mind? It’ll all be so perfectly synced, so convenient!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I give up. Fine, whatever, Cloud me, mine my data, I can’t fight you any more. (We used to call The Cloud “the mainframe,” but I digress.) There’s a word for those who refuse this new world: "Luddite." &amp;nbsp;And a worse one: “Old."&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&amp;nbsp;So this, these robots, they’re progress too. The idea of an artisan perfumer, trying this and then that from little bottles with hand-written labels is so outmoded in the world of the wired as to be laughable. In the world of “Wired,” it's, well, just kind of silly.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“Wired” has an extremely desirable demographic. A quick look at their media kit reveals a circulation of just under 800,000, not huge, but what a circulation! &amp;nbsp;2011 MMR doublebase&amp;nbsp; data reveals a median household income of $90,448 — down from last year but what isn’t — and a median age of around 35, with all the expected bells and whistles — education and achievement at work, etc. Not good enough for owner Conde Nast, though. “Wired” has recently been redesigned to attract a younger demo (between 20 and 30 years old, income over $30,000.) &amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Certainly, it behooves a publication with this stated goal not to look back, ever.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;To Humphries’ credit, she gives space to the Luddites who bemoan their ancient art, but the article’s conclusion is that these changes are as inevitable as, well, The Cloud; this fits the magazine's editorial approach perfectly. Given enough time, we won’t mind (and, unsaid: we’ll all die off soon anyway.) And oakmoss, like privacy, is just so old fashioned; in the end no one will miss it or even know it once existed.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Yeah, well, given enough time, I guess we’re not supposed to mind much of anything.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Photo composite copyright Pat Borow, all rights reserved.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;BTW: Remember Lanvin's "Rumeur" from last week? The one that contains enough costus and oakmoss to make the entire EU faint? I sprayed lots of it on my skin, some delicate skin at that, and &lt;i&gt;didn't get a rash&lt;/i&gt;. Not even an itch.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1204116868532978469?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1204116868532978469/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1204116868532978469&amp;isPopup=true' title='10 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1204116868532978469'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1204116868532978469'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/10/wired.html' title='Wired'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WZ9i04NoCM4/TqWVDc8TYlI/AAAAAAAAAqc/VWpC9d7ZUJI/s72-c/perfumebottledanger.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>10</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1125132569768825938</id><published>2011-10-18T07:00:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-10-18T07:00:02.045-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume reviews'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='vintage perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Lanvin'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='vintage Rumeur'/><title type='text'>Vintage Lanvin Rumeur</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iYp5eX5TRQ/TpxWa9K7XqI/AAAAAAAAAqU/_DIMKr2rQbs/s1600/ava3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iYp5eX5TRQ/TpxWa9K7XqI/AAAAAAAAAqU/_DIMKr2rQbs/s400/ava3.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;The winner of Denise Hamilton’s new novel, Damage Control, is &amp;nbsp;Lindaloo! Get in touch with me at Olfactarama at att dot net with postal details and I’ll send it to you. (Winner chosen, as usual, with&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://random.org/"&gt;random.org&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;A few days ago, I came across a few mills of vintage Lanvin Rumeur.&amp;nbsp; I didn’t have time to sample it properly over the weekend, so I thought, for some reason, that it was an aldehydic floral like Arpege. Anyway, I grabbed a couple of those for comparison and brought it down to the studio to sniff and write about today.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Maaaannnn! This is no floral.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Rumeur was released in the early Thirties. Not a particularly good decade for most. Times were tough. (Perfumes, as markers of history, fascinate me. This is why I love the vintage stuff so much.) The Thirties were a decade of tough fragrances, too, like this: leather. Like an old aviator jacket once owned by a pipe smoker who, well, maybe didn’t get to wash his hair as often as he should have; a prominent note here is costus.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Costus is made from steam-distilling the roots of the &lt;i&gt;Saussuria costus&lt;/i&gt;, a perennial, thistle-like herb that grows in Asia. I have a little bit of the essential oil. It smells like scalp, sort of dirty and fleshy and musky at once. It was used as a fixative in the ancient world, but that may not have been the same plant — there are many types.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Reading up on the IFRA regulations, I see that costus oil and absolute are — you guessed it! — prohibited, as a severe sensitizer. So now I treasure my tiny little vial of EO all the more. Black market costus! (And no, I’m not going to rub the pure stuff on my skin, nannykins, &lt;i&gt;okay&lt;/i&gt;? &amp;nbsp;I have been using it as an ingredient in mixtures I call scents of place, as an element that adds that necessary bit of urban funk.) Rumeur is full of it.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;So can I expect a rash? I’ll let you know.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;But back to the scent. I get aldehydes at first, a tiny bit of floral (carved in stone, though, like those carved flowers over doorways in some old cathedrals) and some stone fruit. And civet, a little. The aforementioned costus. Leather leather leather, and it smells like the birch tar kind, not the synthetic “leather” note IBQ. A little smoke. I guess you could call it a leather chypre, as there’s oakmoss in it, too.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;I brought along some 1990 Chanel No. 5 EDT and some vintage Arpege &lt;i&gt;extrait&lt;/i&gt; for comparison, when I was still thinking that this would be an aldehydic floral. The Chanel in particular gave me that “Why haven’t I been wearing this more often!” thrill&lt;i&gt;. &lt;/i&gt;The Rumeur is&amp;nbsp;an intellectually challenging fragrance, one that I found to be a little, er, disconcerting, similar in that way to Coty's Chypre.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;I would love to get my hands on some Remeur&lt;i&gt; extrait. &lt;/i&gt;It must be amazing.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Certainly, this is one that would scare the horses.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Remember this is &lt;i&gt;vintage&lt;/i&gt; Rumeur. Reviews on the new one, released in 2006, range from “absolutely awful” to “not as bad as all that.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;I know the photo of &lt;a href="http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/search/label/Ava%20Gardner"&gt;Ava Gardner&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;is out of time. It's a publicity still for "The Killers," from the late Forties. But it's such a great photo, I just had to use it. I have not been able to find the name of the photographer.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Perfumer was Andre Fraysse, who also created Arpege for Lanvin. "Rumeur" was released in 1934.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;A quick search of our favorite auction site revealed…nothing. Not one bottle. But there’s always tomorrow, and some decant sellers might have it.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;Full disclosure: I got my sample in a swap.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1125132569768825938?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1125132569768825938/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1125132569768825938&amp;isPopup=true' title='2 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1125132569768825938'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1125132569768825938'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/10/vintage-lanvin-rumeur.html' title='Vintage Lanvin Rumeur'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3iYp5eX5TRQ/TpxWa9K7XqI/AAAAAAAAAqU/_DIMKr2rQbs/s72-c/ava3.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>2</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-3305340539495517965</id><published>2011-10-10T14:34:00.001-04:00</published><updated>2011-10-10T14:38:38.857-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='book review'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Denise Hamilton'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Damage Control&quot;'/><title type='text'>Book Review -- "Damage Control" by Denise Hamilton</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YmfQGemSejk/TpM4HTizHHI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/05nluL6AxFw/s1600/damage-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YmfQGemSejk/TpM4HTizHHI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/05nluL6AxFw/s400/damage-1.jpg" width="270" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;“We’re the number that movie stars have on speed dial when they get caught buying heroin or transvestite hookers on the wrong end of Sunset….We tell clients whom to talk to, when to go to rehab, what emotions to show (remorse, sorrow, sincerity, guilt, humility).” — Maggie Silver, heroine of “Damage Control”&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;This is a terrific read. I’m not a mystery fan, particularly, as I think that so often the characters exist simply to move the plot along. These characters, though, are like real people, except that “real” hardly applies to them. They exist in a Los Angeles most of us will never experience or even see. These are the dwellers of hilltop homes with ocean views, entrance gates, and secrets.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Maggie Silver is an up-and-comer in the army of&amp;nbsp; highly paid servants, members of a large group — the lawyers, accountants, managers, trainers, personal assistants and many others — who protect the rich and famous, often from themselves.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;In an interview with Carolyn Kellogg of the L.A. Times, author Denise Hamilton says that she “wanted someone who’d be in that world and yet not of it.” That’s what Maggie Silver is. Once, at sixteen, she reinvented herself&amp;nbsp; (Encino, not North Hollywood; deceased father a golden-age screenwriter, not barfly) to be accepted by the gilded Paxton family after she became pals with their daughter,&amp;nbsp;Annabelle. But she and Annabelle have been apart for many years, and now Maggie is a rising star at The Blair Company, a firm that does damage control. Annabelle’s father, a distinguished U.S. Senator, is in trouble. One of his assistants, a beautiful young woman, has been murdered. The tabloid press is circling him. So Maggie and the Paxtons meet again.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Lots of us in perfume circles are familiar with Denise Hamilton. She writes the perfume column of the L.A. Times, and pops up regularly on perfume sites and fora. The novel is peppered with familiar names -- Vol de Nuit, Sycomore, Chergui -- and rationalizations ("If it makes you feel rich as a duchess, keep it.")&amp;nbsp;A classic scent even provides the final clue, which only Maggie, with her keen nose, would “get,” and she does. It’s fun, reading the perfume references, although the author has apparently realized that the perfume blogosphere is a small world, and uses them skillfully.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The real appeal of this book, at least for me, is its dead-on look at modern Los Angeles. Hamilton knows the territory; the downbeat surf culture she has called “surf noir” where, on certain beaches, used syringes and condoms are as common as kelp. But she also roams the immigrant neighborhoods in search of, say, Peruvian food and back-street thrift shops. Her own life includes a crushing mortgage on a crackerbox house in an iffy neighborhood, and caring for a mother recovering from cancer.&amp;nbsp; In other word, she needs her job. Needs to remain sharp so badly that she has a growing smart-drug addiction. So badly that, as she begins to realize that The Blair Company does more — a lot more — than simple PR to protect its clients, she tries to reason it all away. She, as an employee of Blair, is spawn of the sizzling 24-hour celebrity-worshiping culture that defines us now.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The first few chapters of “Damage Control” are Chandleresque in their description of this dark Los Angeles. They’re as good as anything I’ve ever read about the city. The rest of the book is devoted to Maggie’s unraveling the plot, in mystery-novel tradition, full of dialogue and subterfuge. I kept thinking about what a good movie this book might make. What meaty characters these are, all of them, from street-smart but troubled Maggie to blanked-out fortunate daughter Annabelle to Maggie’s shoulda-been-in-the-CIA boss Faraday to Mr. Blair himself, a self-invented P.R. Zen Holy Man that could only exist here and who, incidentally, serves Maggie civet cat-shit coffee — of course we in the know know what that is; the uninitiated will probably think Hamilton made it up.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;So yeah, get this book. I think you’ll all like it.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;If you don’t mind receiving a used copy (with only one user: me) leave a comment by midnight US Eastern Daylight Time, Monday, October 17th. I’ll do a random drawing and announce the winner on Tuesday, October 18th.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;Full Disclosure Time: This book was sent to me by a P.R. company working for the publisher, Scribner, after I answered an inquiry asking if I’d like to review it. “Damage Control” is out now and is available where books are sold, ISBN 978-0-7432-9674-8, and as an e-book (ISBN 978-1-4516-2789-3).&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;The image is a scan of the cover of “Damage Control,” jacket design by Chika Azuma and jacket photograph ©Allan Jenkins.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-3305340539495517965?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/3305340539495517965/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=3305340539495517965&amp;isPopup=true' title='6 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3305340539495517965'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3305340539495517965'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/10/book-review-damage-control-by-denise.html' title='Book Review -- &quot;Damage Control&quot; by Denise Hamilton'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YmfQGemSejk/TpM4HTizHHI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/05nluL6AxFw/s72-c/damage-1.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>6</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-8346749416780941458</id><published>2011-10-03T15:00:00.004-04:00</published><updated>2011-10-03T16:08:36.466-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='history of perfumery'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><title type='text'>Perfume and the Memory of War, by Erin Solaro</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuitp-qJaMU/Ton4jIMB2dI/AAAAAAAAAqM/0uE1vCWkt1w/s1600/antiwar-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="365" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuitp-qJaMU/Ton4jIMB2dI/AAAAAAAAAqM/0uE1vCWkt1w/s400/antiwar-image.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;First a little business: I didn't hear from two of the "Miriam" winners by the deadline of 9/30, midnight US EDT, so chose new ones using random.org. They are: Irina (sample and DVD) and Susan (Grand Prize -- Miriam Purse Flacon). Please get in touch with me by Tuesday, October 11, midnight US Daylight time, with postal information so I can send them to you.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;A few years ago, I came across this essay on another blog, and saved a copy of it in my files. I found it recently. It's a powerful piece, from 2007, and although it is long, it's really good and very thought-provoking.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Thoughts? I'd love to hear yours.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The composite photo at left is mine.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Perfume and the Memory of War&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Erin Solaro&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Having arrived (inevitably yet somewhat unexpectedly) on the high side of 40, and never having been a glamour queen, I’ve concluded that most makeup is a waste of time and money. The only exceptions are a few flattering lipstick shades, which will of course vary from woman to woman, and perfume.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;For many of us, scent is powerfully linked to erotic memories: first kiss, first penetration, a particular lover or lover’s gift or request. There are also other experiences, often less fondly remembered. Scent can trigger everything from afterglow to PTSD. For me, whenever I smell Prescriptives’ fruity, mossy Calyx, I think of heavy armor. I was a freshly minted Army second lieutenant, wearing Calyx the first time I ever saw an M-1 tank &lt;i&gt;move&lt;/i&gt;, and what a revelation that was: the perfect balance of mobility, armor and firepower.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;And therein lies a larger connection.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Scent is, or should be, part of more than individual memory. Like wine, scent is part of cultural memory. And of historical memory. People sometimes have the opportunity to drink very old wine. Imagine pouring a vintage made from grapes picked by men who went off to die in the Great War, better known to us as World War I, and by the women who had no choice but to watch them go. Almost instinctively, we feel a bond. Almost instinctively, we want to drink to them.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Yet we do not think of perfume this way. Cultural memory is intellectual and bound up with the wars and other great events that have shaped Western civilization. Wine is part of culture, part of history, however tangential. Perfume is merely part of fashion. Fashion–couture–may be an important industry, but it is mainly associated with women and the men who dress them: a significant endeavor, sometimes of interest to historians, but hardly on a par with war and the memory of war. Or so we think. We know we drink to the long-ago dead but we rarely perfume ourselves in their honor.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I recently purchased off Ebay some old (at least 50 years) Chanel No. 5, still sealed. It was an unusual purchase. Back in the 80s, when I was studying tanks and poetry and kindred matters, I never liked Chanel No.5. I found it far too commercial, and far too subtle, compared to my favorite young woman’s scents, such as Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and Calvin Klein’s Obsession for Men, or for that matter Guerlain’s Shalimar, which I still love. A few months ago, however, I tried Chanel No. 5 and liked it. Perhaps they’ve tweaked the composition; more likely, my tastes have evolved. Thus my purchase.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;With scent like this, who needs makeup?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Please do not think of me as some educated nose who can intone, “Ahh, top notes of aldehydes and base notes of sandalwood, suffused throughout with jasmine” (which is in fact true of Chanel No. 5). I simply hold that Chanel No. 5 in parfum strength is a beautiful scent, drying down to some Platonic ideal of baby powder and the very softest kidskin, with, at least on my skin, just a hint of cool sweetness. I smell it and I connect to poetry. Not lovesong or commercial tripe, but lines from a Russian poet beloved since high school, a connection as unlikely, yet also as evocative, as smelling Calyx and thinking of tanks.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #666666; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Rummaging in your black memory you find&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;gloves up to the elbow,&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;and the Petersburg night. And in the dark of the theater boxes&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;that stifling sweet smell.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Wind from the gulf. And there between the lines,&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;shunning the ‘ahs’ and the ‘ohs,’&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Blok will smile at you contemptuously–&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;the tragic tenor of the age.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #666666; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Three Verses” by Anna Akhmatova, translated by Richard McKane, from &lt;i&gt;Post-War Russian Poetry&lt;/i&gt;, edited by Daniel Weissbort.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Anna Akhmatova was the greatest poet of the brutal 20th Century, a guest in the beds of many members of Russia’s brilliant pre-1914 cultural &lt;i&gt;avant-garde &lt;/i&gt;while so much the heir of an older, classical, tradition that she was widely acknowledged to be “Anna of All the Russias,” in the style of the Tsars. A survivor of wars civil and world, famines natural and manmade, Stalinist purges and Leninist horrors, she kept faith with the living by bearing witness for the dead. “Blok” is Aleksandr Blok, one of the most important poets of the last century and an early admirer of the Bolsheviks. The formal cause of his death in the year 1921 may have been starvation in hungry St. Petersburg, or it may have been tuberculosis. Millions died of both. Whatever the notation on his death certificate (assuming anybody issued one), Blok, watching the descent of Communism into unimagined and unimaginable cruelty, simply refused to live. Farther to the west, a Europe settled into pensive peace after its own pandemic of death, struggled to regain its own desire to live. And it was during these years, when Paris was a refuge for many Russians, that the Russian &lt;i&gt;émigré &lt;/i&gt;and perfumer Ernest Beaux created Chanel’s greatest fragrances: amongst them, No. 5 and No. 22, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, and Gardenia.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Can there be a connection?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;If you love scent, two of the great houses are Guerlain and Caron. My introduction to Guerlain was Shalimar as a girl; my introduction to Caron as a woman was Nuit de Noel. Two very beautiful scents that I almost instinctively related to military history, as I have Guerlain’s Djedi, which I have never smelled.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;You can’t understand these houses and their scents without placing them in the context of war, specifically the Franco-German wars. Two great land powers occupied the heart of Europe; centuries of hate and death passed between them. For convenience, we’ll elide the dreary dynastic squabbles and Napoleon’s assorted depredations to start with France’s shattering defeat in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71. Otto von Bismarck, having forcibly united all the non-Hapsburg German lands into one Reich, and having helped himself to the French provinces of Alsace and Lorraine, now declared imperial Germany a “satisfied” Power and adopted a foreign policy of “Can’t we all just get along?” For its part, France lived the motto, “Think of it always. Speak of it never.” Over the next four decades, Europe chose sides. Germany crafted alliances to keep France isolated and weak. France crafted alliances to keep Germany surrounded and bereft of overseas colonies. The official goal of both alliances was deterrence. But by the early years of the 20th century, it was clear that the alliance system had become less a facilitator of peace than a guarantor of carnage. Everyone knew it. From the politicians to the poets, from the philosophers to the perfumers, from the general staffs to the general public, few doubted that another war was inevitable.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The history books proclaim that everyone expected a short war, dashing and gallant. The truth is that everyone hoped the war would be short, hoped in the manner of a losing gambler staking it all on a single spin of the wheel. It was no secret that war had changed because technology had changed. Muzzle-loading muskets, for centuries so erratic that the firing command sequence was “Ready, Level, Fire,” had been replaced by repeating rifles firing manufactured cartridges, accurate and lethal to several hundred yards. Machine guns were common; so was artillery firing high-explosive shells. Barbed wire, originally an American invention for fencing in cattle, became a defensive staple. Railroads made it possible to concentrate millions of men into preposterously small areas; trenches made it possible for them to fight for years without moving the front more than a few miles. Millions killed each other. Millions more died of disease or lived on, physically, mentally, or emotionally shattered. And sometime during the First World War, the very nature of courage changed. Once, valor had meant bold and independent action. Now it related primarily to the ability to endure and obey. The virtues not of aggression, but exhaustion.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The First World War was followed by a second. And everybody saw that one coming, too.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;To smell the scents of the great perfume houses of Guerlain and Caron from say, 1910 all the way through the middle of the century, is to smell sorrow upon sorrow. Sometimes that sorrow is anticipated, in a perfume such as L’Heure Bleue, the blue hour of Parisian evenings. Sometimes it is as fresh as blood, as in N’Aimez Que Moi (“Love Only Me”). The &lt;i&gt;poilus&lt;/i&gt;, French soldiers traveling such routes as the &lt;i&gt;Voie Sacrée &lt;/i&gt;to Verdun, gave this scent to women they hoped would remain faithful to them. The women hoped that if they wore it and their lovers survived, they would return to them in a land more and more bereft of its young men. And sometimes that sorrow is remembered, as in Nuit de Noel, when the men who died should have been with their parents and sisters, the women they never married and the children they never raised. It is sorrow for the fair and the brave, ruined and broken and bereft before their time, the dead and their survivors.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Often the sorrow is for the young men slaughtered. Sometimes, as in Shalimar, it is for women. The scent is named after the Shalimar Gardens of Lahore, which Shah Jahan created for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their thirteenth child. Until well into the 20th century, childbirth was to women what war was to men. With one exception. For men, war was an episodic horror. For women, it was routine decimation. Do the phrases strike you as odd? Isn’t war supposed to be the routine decimation, childbirth the episodic horror? Think again. I did, after returning from Afghanistan in 2005 and discovering that, statistically, a modern Afghan woman has a greater chance of dying in childbirth than a World War II American infantryman did of dying in battle. How many of those men, I wonder, brought back French perfume for their women, or died with bottles in their packs, perhaps broken open by enemy fire.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Then there is Jacques Guerlain’s masterpiece, Djedi, from 1927.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Djedi was the legendary magician of ancient Egypt. Pharaoh Khufu, the god-king, had brought Djedi to court to entertain his courtiers. Pharaoh wanted to see if Djedi could rejoin a severed human head to its body. Djedi said he could, and Pharaoh commanded a prisoner be brought in and decapitated for his amusement. But Djedi refused, saying, “Do not do this to a human being, my sovereign lord: surely it is not permitted to do such a thing to one of the noble herd of God.” Pharaoh agreed and permitted Djedi to rejoin the head of a duck to its body instead.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The message for that most blood-soaked of our centuries: there are things that human beings should never do to each other.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;For those who have been lucky enough to smell it, Djedi is the strangest perfume ever created, and often the most beautiful.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;It opens with scents of stone and mineral. One might think of camel thorn bleaching in the desert sun, or smoke rising into the desert sky. Then it opens into rose and iris, vetiver and spice, beautiful and brief, before melding into leather and bitter herbs, and musk that is both animal and powdery and that to some people smells of roasting meat. One might, if one is so inclined, think of burning tanks and what happens to the crew inside, or of dead infantrymen. Indeed, some people note a scent of putrefaction, even of feces.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The overwhelming impressions of Djedi are of a regal beauty that is conquered by terrible grief, a beauty that does not stoop to weeping or pleading, but is broken to standing ruins like a shattered sword.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;To name a perfume for women–wealthy, cultured, aristocratic women–after a mythical Egyptian magician who is remembered to us for upholding the human dignity of a condemned prisoner was the act of a great perfumer who understood that he was living in a civilization that had no serious defenders. Not the traditionalists and conservatives, whether of the monarchy or the Church. Nor the totalitarians of Left or Right. Nor the cultural modernists. Nor the bourgeoisie, nor the workers, nor the intellectuals. Djedi is an expression of sorrow for a civilization that did the First World War, and would do a second, and between them birthed political movements that delighted in cruelty and slaughter. He, the perfumer, knows that his country, having endured one Verdun, cannot endure another. In 1916, 70% of the French Army marched up the &lt;i&gt;Voie Sacrée &lt;/i&gt;to Verdun, a battle whose architects on both sides crafted to bleed each other to death. A quarter million men died and half a million were wounded, German and French together. The perfumer–it must be said, the great artist–cannot condemn his country for being unable to do it again, even if the price of failure will be far greater next time around.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal 'Lucida Grande'; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Djedi is the scent of an uneasy era when people hoped that if they pretended enough, they wouldn’t have to think about doing Verdun again. It is also a lament for all the beauty that the perfumer knew had survived the first act of Europe’s catastrophe, that he knew would perish in the second.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;We live now as they did in 1912 (L’Heure Bleue) and 1922 (Nuit de Noel), or 1925 (Shalimar) and in 1927 (Djedi). We are living through the beginning of the ending of our world. Our civilization is slipping away, perhaps also towards some dreadful cataclysm. Everyone knows the catalogue of perils, from terrorism and climate change to lunatic wars and the lunatic debt that funds our wars. And how long can we pretend that reality will conform to our fantasies, so long as we keep up the pretense?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The classic scents of Ernest Daltroff and Jacques Guerlain are scents that were understood to be great then, were great because they encapsulated the terrible beauty of a doomed civilization, in a time when the educated and cultured knew they were living at the edge of damnation. Ernest Beaux’s beautiful scents for Chanel are the scents of a man who has found a fragile, tentative refuge amongst beauty from slaughter. The callow 1914 invitation of the English poet Rupert Brooke–Let’s die together; it’ll be great fun–was only one attempt by young Europeans to evade their understanding that the war that was coming down upon them was going to be uniquely terrible. And so would be its aftermath.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;We talk now of failed states, but Europe of the first half of the 20th century was a failed continent, a failed civilization. And the great scents of those decades, the Guerlains and the Chanels and the Carons are suffused with mourning for that civilization, every bit as much as they were also suffused with, for example, the images of Jazz Age flappers daringly smoking in public, as Tabac Blond is.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;When those of us who will survive the coming decades look back, what will be the scent we associate with these last ephemeral years?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Fantasy and Curious “by” Britney Spears, perhaps. And Heiress and Paris Hilton “by” Paris Hilton, perhaps also. Fruity, sweet, without staying power, “girly.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Unserious.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Unwomanly.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Uncivilized.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Erin Solaro writes about women, war and other matters of great &lt;i&gt;gravitas&lt;/i&gt;. This essay originally appeared in &lt;a href="http://military.com/"&gt;military.com&lt;/a&gt;, September 26, 2007. It has a copyright date, 2010, and I hope I’m not causing undue trouble by featuring it here. Solaros also has a book, “Women in the Line of Fire” out on Seal press, 2006.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Composite photo by Pat Borow, all rights reserved.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 15.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-8346749416780941458?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/8346749416780941458/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=8346749416780941458&amp;isPopup=true' title='5 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8346749416780941458'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8346749416780941458'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/10/perfume-and-memory-of-war-by-erin.html' title='Perfume and the Memory of War, by Erin Solaro'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuitp-qJaMU/Ton4jIMB2dI/AAAAAAAAAqM/0uE1vCWkt1w/s72-c/antiwar-image.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>5</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6576786281051560620</id><published>2011-09-26T20:30:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-26T20:30:01.577-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Santa Monica Farmers Market'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance oils'/><title type='text'>Dirt</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6LiMYrFC6M/ToCRWRfq-6I/AAAAAAAAAqI/C8cQO9R1LyE/s1600/dreamstime_xs_20915541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="212" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6LiMYrFC6M/ToCRWRfq-6I/AAAAAAAAAqI/C8cQO9R1LyE/s320/dreamstime_xs_20915541.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #783f04; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;"Miriam" winners: I still haven't heard from three of you. Sept.30 at midnight US Eastern Daylight time is the deadline -- after that I'll pick alternates.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I’ve always been an enthusiastic cook. When I was first married, about a million years ago, a series of layoffs and career changing left us broke. For a year and a half we didn’t go out to eat unless the in-laws treated us. I mean not at all. Not even coffee shops. I was working from home, trying to build a clientele for my writing and copywriting. It was a difficult time.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Every Wednesday, I’d go to Santa Monica for the farmers market there. (Hard to believe now, but their vegetables were cheaper than the supermarket’s. This greenmarket had originally been formed to provide the senior residents of downtown Santa Monica with fresh produce they could afford. Seems incredible now, doesn’t it?)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Anyway, that was when I really learned to cook. My favorite resources were &amp;nbsp;“Cook’s Illustrated” magazine and Julia Child’s “The Way to Cook.” My ingredients, thanks to the market, were the very best.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I can still see, and taste, the produce from that Wednesday market. Lettuce varieties that tasted different from any I’d ever had; actually, make that lettuce that had a taste. Golden beets and purple string beans that turned green upon cooking. Yellow crookneck squash so fresh it still had the whiskery bristles. Perfect white aubergines, the size and shape of hen's eggs. (The market had those, too.) Those long french radishes with the white tips. Baskets full of basil so fresh it nearly quivered when touched.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Everything was organic. It was required to be, and also had to be harvested within the previous 24 hours. Therefore, no tomatoes in December. Winter was the time of the root vegetables with their greens; beets, and turnips, and cabbages, carrots, brussels sprouts still on the stalk. Summer was for the nightshades — tomatoes and eggplants and summer squash in endless variety — and the herbs. Having grown up on supermarket food, I hadn't realized that broccoli was a winter vegetable and squash a summer one. Forced to cook and eat seasonally, I became more attuned to other natural cycles, too.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;There were no chef-y demonstrations or wildly expensive designer vegetables at this market. It was just food and flowers. I’d buy big bunches of daisies for a dollar. Sometimes street musicians would show up and play, and the benevolent city government would let them. But none of it ever felt contrived.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Most places have greenmarkets now — we have one in my little-town-inside-big-city — but they’re very expensive, a few tables set up with baskets of $5 tomatoes (that's per tomato, not per basket) &amp;nbsp;— so I’ve learned to buy produce elsewhere at a vast shedlike “farmers market” here that’s really an international grocery store. But I miss that&amp;nbsp; California cornucopia, four blocks of the earth’s best, to this day.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I bring this up because of the way appreciation of perfumery opens appreciation of taste. Whereas once I’d just retrieve the (one) bottle of cinnamon from my spice pantry and spoon out some, now I hold one of the several kinds I have to my nose and consider which would be best for the dish, performing those little sniffs as I do when testing a perfume. &amp;nbsp;So many cinammons, all so different; some warm, some cool, some pungent. I buy whole spices, and grind my own mixes from them. This is a lot like painting, like knowing your pigments so well that you can confidently choose not just a white, but &lt;i&gt;which &lt;/i&gt;white; &amp;nbsp;warm? Cool? Pasty? Opaque, semi-transparent, goopy, ropy, what?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I’ve been playing around with fragrance oils and essential oils lately. Last week I got one called "Dirt." It smells like, well, dirt. It smells&lt;i&gt; just&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;i&gt;like&lt;/i&gt; dirt. Garden dirt. The humus-y, dark, rooty kind. I don’t know what’s in it, although it’s got some patchouli; that I know. I also know this. Open that bottle and I’m back at the market, my nose pressed into a bunch of beets I’ve just bought, dug out of the ground that morning and smelling more earthy than the earth that they grew in.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;We get caught up in reviewing and comparing and comparing and reviewing readymades; what is that &lt;i&gt;note&lt;/i&gt;, damn it, why can’t I place it, aaaargh! Or comparing this perfumer or that perfumer’s work. I lose track, sometimes, of why I do this. Many reasons; the interesting friends, the sense of community, the samples and swaps, the sheer opportunity to spend time writing about something I love and knowing (well, hoping) that it will be appreciated by the like-minded. And it’s all great. But every now and then it’s good to slow down, empty the mind, and smell the dirt.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Photo by Zigzagmtart, used under license from&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://Dreamstime.com/"&gt;Dreamstime.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6576786281051560620?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6576786281051560620/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6576786281051560620&amp;isPopup=true' title='15 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6576786281051560620'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6576786281051560620'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/dirt.html' title='Dirt'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D6LiMYrFC6M/ToCRWRfq-6I/AAAAAAAAAqI/C8cQO9R1LyE/s72-c/dreamstime_xs_20915541.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>15</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-8675318903368848137</id><published>2011-09-19T09:00:00.015-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-19T09:00:13.474-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot; perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume samples drawing winner'/><title type='text'>Miriam: The Winners</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmVPv3WE6b8/TncdK6JNT-I/AAAAAAAAAqE/X0Gsr500lmY/s1600/DetailBoxfrontedit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmVPv3WE6b8/TncdK6JNT-I/AAAAAAAAAqE/X0Gsr500lmY/s1600/DetailBoxfrontedit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmVPv3WE6b8/TncdK6JNT-I/AAAAAAAAAqE/X0Gsr500lmY/s1600/DetailBoxfrontedit.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Thanks, everybody, for reading these posts! So let's get to it:&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The sample and DVD's winners from yesterday were: Womo531 and Elisa!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000;"&gt;The Grand Prize -- the purse-sized flacon of "Miriam" --goes to Jaki!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Congratulations to all the winners! Get in touch with me at the email address to the left for postal info.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;As always, winners were chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://random.org/"&gt;random.org.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Next up, Wednesday the 21st:&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3100b0; font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Other participating blogs are:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-fragrant-story-goes-on-interview.html"&gt;Perfume Shrine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://persolaise.blogspot.com/2011/09/evelyn-avenue-interview-miriam-give.html"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Persolaise&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeposse.com/"&gt;Perfume Posse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I'll be back next week with a regular post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-8675318903368848137?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/8675318903368848137/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=8675318903368848137&amp;isPopup=true' title='1 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8675318903368848137'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8675318903368848137'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-winners.html' title='Miriam: The Winners'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jmVPv3WE6b8/TncdK6JNT-I/AAAAAAAAAqE/X0Gsr500lmY/s72-c/DetailBoxfrontedit.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-5313720202729279822</id><published>2011-09-18T00:01:00.057-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-18T08:18:28.162-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Woman&apos;s Picture'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot; perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Brian Pera'/><title type='text'>Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Five of Five</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vif2biwTS1o/TnDtbMMD3EI/AAAAAAAAAp8/j5XQk7eLvIc/s1600/still-ann1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #013266; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vif2biwTS1o/TnDtbMMD3EI/AAAAAAAAAp8/j5XQk7eLvIc/s320/still-ann1.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #741b47;"&gt;Yesterday's winners of the "Miriam" sample and DVD are a.k.a. Warum and Zerami! Get in touch with me at the email address to the left and I'll send them. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: #741b47; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;(To all commenters: the Grand Prize winner will be announced tomorrow, Monday Sept. 19&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 9.3px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;, at 9:00a.m. US Eastern Daylight Time.)&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;“For me, serialization means a story keeps on deepening and expanding over time.” -- Brian Pera, Writer and Director&amp;nbsp;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Woman’s Picture,” the film, is a beginning. Filmmaker Brian Pera plans to continue exploring these characters in an open-ended series of short, web-based films over the next ten years or so.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The segments, while at first view may seem unrelated as stories, do relate on “subterranean levels of mood and theme,” according to Pera. This is a process he likens to perfumes from a long established house like Chanel. Compare two of them, and the differences are obvious. But, when looking at the line through time, the differences become more muted, while the parallels become more apparent, and more complex.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for different angles. They’re listed at the end of this (and subsequent) posts. And stop by &lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp; for all sorts of interesting stuff. “Miriam,” which is to be released in early October, will be sold there, and through &lt;a href="http://www.luckyscent.com/"&gt;Lucky Scent&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;For a look at Brian Pera’s short film “Melissa,” which was featured here yesterday, go&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://vimeo.com/28635351"&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Question 5:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Have you ever known anyone like Miriam?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Pera: “I'm a lot like Miriam myself. &amp;nbsp;Because creating a character is a form of impersonation for me, a lot of who I am goes into it. &amp;nbsp;I try to understand what I would do in the situations that (the) character is in. &amp;nbsp;I've been frustrated and placed in positions of paranoia like Miriam, and I empathize. &amp;nbsp;She handles it about how I imagine I would. &amp;nbsp;She's in a situation where she doesn't know whom to trust and can't evaluate other people's motivations properly, or her own judgment, and she's faced with what for me is the ultimate test of endurance, the gradual loss of a loved one.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Miriam is also me trying to understand, drawing from my own experience, how the women I've admired (particularly my grandmothers) coped with adversity or their ambitions and the people who generated resistance to them. &amp;nbsp;Miriam is a hard working, driven person who wants to see the good in things rather than focus on the bad.&amp;nbsp; I appreciate that in people. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;A lot of my experience found its way into all of the Woman's Picture stories we've filmed so far, but nowhere more than MIRIAM, because of all the characters, she was closest to my memories of my grandmothers and the frustrations I felt they faced in life. &amp;nbsp;Miriam is ambitious and a creative soul, and she doesn't always know what to do with that.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Like her, I try to make something productive out of my frustrations, and sometimes that means living partially in a fantasy world. &amp;nbsp;You create the world you wish you lived in (for me, that's film; for her, it's a TV show and a TV persona) and you can find pretty quickly that you prefer the fantasy to reality, because in the fantasy you can work things out to your advantage and resolve things which can't be resolved in any other way. &amp;nbsp;You can imagine that your perceptions of people and their motives are exact rather than ambiguous and opaque. &amp;nbsp;Most of the people I know are like Miriam in that respect. We all have imaginations and visualize things before we do them. &amp;nbsp;We want the best for ourselves and to think the best of others. &amp;nbsp;And fantasy permits that.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I've known many women who, like Miriam, give a lot to a relationship, trying to keep it going, and suffer for it. &amp;nbsp;They're trying to be the best they can be, even when it goes against self interests. &amp;nbsp;They lose themselves somewhere in the process. &amp;nbsp;I watched some of the women in my family do that, sometimes repeatedly. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I think it's easy to blame women for things. &amp;nbsp;I wanted to put a character you want to blame in a situation where you gradually see how ridiculous your judgment of her is. &amp;nbsp;I always disliked the way the men in my family judged women. &amp;nbsp;I had nowhere to put those feelings, and MIRIAM offered me the opportunity to address them and deal with them constructively, and to bring my grandmothers back in some way. &amp;nbsp;I felt like they were on the set with me.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;This post concludes the five-day interview serialization.&amp;nbsp;Thanks for reading, everybody!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #073568; font: normal normal normal 13px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for more exploration of “Woman’s Picture,” reviews and short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes. Links appear at the end of this post.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Andy Tauer has provided a very generous allotment of sample prize packages for the drawing, too. Details appear below.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #00984d; font-size: 13px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;The drawing&lt;/b&gt;: Each day, I’ll pick two winners at random from that day’s comments, who will each win a package from Tauer Perfumes. This includes a sample of the fragrance “Miriam” and a DVD version of the “Miriam” short film, which opens in October. I’ll announce the names of the previous day’s winners with each day’s post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: normal normal normal 13px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: normal normal normal 13px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Previous winners of the “Miriam” package won’t be eligible to win again until the drawing for the Grand Prize, a purse-sized sprayer of “Miriam,” which all commenters are eligible to win. That random drawing will be held at the end of the five-day series, and announced at 9:00 a.m. US Eastern Daylight Time, Monday, Sept. 19&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 8.7px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: normal normal normal 13px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: normal normal normal 13px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;All winners must contact me with postal details at the email listed to the left, by midnight US Eastern Daylight Time, Friday, Sept. 30&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 8.7px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;. Otherwise, I’ll do a random drawing to select alternates.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; line-height: 28px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Other participating blogs are:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-fragrant-story-goes-on-interview.html"&gt;Perfume Shrine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://persolaise.blogspot.com/2011/09/evelyn-avenue-interview-miriam-give.html"&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Persolaise&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeposse.com/"&gt;Perfume Posse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The photo is a still from the film, of Ann Magnuson as “Miriam.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px; text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-5313720202729279822?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/5313720202729279822/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=5313720202729279822&amp;isPopup=true' title='20 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/5313720202729279822'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/5313720202729279822'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-serialized-interview-with-brian_18.html' title='Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Five of Five'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vif2biwTS1o/TnDtbMMD3EI/AAAAAAAAAp8/j5XQk7eLvIc/s72-c/still-ann1.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>20</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-8463805971703416734</id><published>2011-09-17T00:01:00.008-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-17T07:03:50.483-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot;  perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Brian Pera'/><title type='text'>Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Four of Five (featuring the short film "Melissa")</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MRNY5dc9LGc/TnDSq6vwWOI/AAAAAAAAAp0/IjbXE_cEPWI/s1600/ann-on-tv-150x150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MRNY5dc9LGc/TnDSq6vwWOI/AAAAAAAAAp0/IjbXE_cEPWI/s1600/ann-on-tv-150x150.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0b5394; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Yesterday's winners of the "Miriam" sample and the DVD are: Veta and Alicia! Get in touch with me at the email to the left and I'll send out your prize packages!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;“For me, serialization means a story keeps on deepening and expanding over time.” -- Brian Pera, Writer and Director&amp;nbsp;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;“Woman’s Picture,” the film, is a beginning. Filmmaker Brian Pera plans to continue exploring these characters in an open-ended series of short, web-based films over the next ten years or so.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The segments, while at first view may seem unrelated as stories, do relate on “subterranean levels of mood and theme,” according to Pera. This is a process he likens to perfumes from a long established house like Chanel. Compare two of them, and the differences are obvious. But, when looking at the line through time, the differences become more muted, while the parallels become more apparent, and more complex.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for different angles. They’re listed at the end of this (and subsequent) posts. And stop by &lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt; &amp;nbsp;for all sorts of interesting stuff. “Miriam,” which is to be released in early October, will be sold there, and through &lt;a href="http://luckyscent.com/"&gt;Lucky Scent&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Andy Tauer has provided a very generous allotment of sample prize packages for the drawing, too. Details appear at the end of this post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Pera has also done a fascinating series of short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes, loved ones and the links between them. Here is one of them:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://vimeo.com/28635351"&gt;"She was a very clean woman": Melissa&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href="http://vimeo.com/user6367876"&gt;brian pera&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href="http://vimeo.com/"&gt;Vimeo&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;It seemed appropriate to serialize this interview, which was conducted online, as well. So it is appearing over a five day period.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Question 4:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;You have said “to me, ‘Miriam Masterson’ is a role Miriam plays, based on childhood memories of her mother’s public mask.” In trying to identify her mother’s old perfume, is Miriam showing us her fear of being unmasked?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Pera: &amp;nbsp;"&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I think Miriam is terrified of losing her mother. &amp;nbsp;Like everyone she has a terror of unfinished business. &amp;nbsp;She has an active fantasy life, and her mother, or her idealized version of her mother, is a big part of that fantasy life. &amp;nbsp;I think for a long time Miriam has been able to enjoy a certain level of denial about her mother's mortality. &amp;nbsp;Her mother has been so alive and so fixed to her within her TV fantasy space, within her imagination. &amp;nbsp;When her mother becomes ill I imagine it's just a rising awareness for Miriam that her mother is "slipping", and I think she knows that the fantasy version of her mother can only exist and flourish in any useful way while her mother is still alive to contrast against it. &amp;nbsp;That uncertainty and transitoriness calls everything into question for her, and nothing seems stable or secure, including her conception of herself.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;So in a way, yes, I think you're right. &amp;nbsp;Miriam's afraid of the reality underneath the fantasy, which is that people are imperfect and mortal, secretly incomplete, and that they don't just live but die that way, taking their secrets with them. &amp;nbsp;They leave mystery behind. While Miriam respects the mystery of her mother, she's terrified of being left without answers and having to trust her own judgment. &amp;nbsp;She'll never truly know who her mother was - only who she wanted to think she was. &amp;nbsp;All of her memories have been so influenced by fantasy that she can't properly parse through them. &amp;nbsp;Her mother is everything to her, even though they've had a troubled relationship, a very complicated one. &amp;nbsp;The whole thing about her obsession with her mother's perfume comes straight from my life. &amp;nbsp;I had a tiny bottle of perfume my grandmother left in her medicine cabinet - the only fragrance she owned. &amp;nbsp;I took it when she died. &amp;nbsp;And it was a big part of me. &amp;nbsp;Somewhere in my mind, that perfume was her. &amp;nbsp;And when it broke, and ran down the drain, it was like another death, as crazy as that sounds. I still haven’t gotten over it.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Like Miriam, I never knew the name of the perfume. &amp;nbsp;So I only have the memory of that scent now, which is practically nothing. &amp;nbsp;And it fades a little each year, the way memories of people do."&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for more exploration of “Woman’s Picture,” reviews and short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes. Links appear at the end of this post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;The drawing: Each day, I’ll pick two winners at random from that day’s comments, who will each win a package from Tauer Perfumes. This includes a sample of the fragrance “Miriam” and a DVD &amp;nbsp;of the “Miriam” short film, which opens in October. I’ll announce the names of the previous day’s winners with each day’s post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Previous winners of the “Miriam” package won’t be eligible to win again until the drawing for the Grand Prize, a purse-sized sprayer of “Miriam,” which all commenters are eligible to win. That random drawing will be held at the end of the five-day series, and announced at 9:00 a.m. US Eastern Daylight Time, Monday, Sept. 19th.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;All winners must contact me with postal details at the email listed to the left, by midnight US Eastern Daylight Time, Friday, Sept. 30th. Otherwise, I’ll do a random drawing to select alternates.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Other participating blogs are:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-fragrant-story-goes-on-interview.html"&gt;Perfume Shrine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: black;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: black;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://persolaise.blogspot.com/2011/09/evelyn-avenue-interview-miriam-give.html"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Persolaise&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeposse.com/"&gt;Perfume Posse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The photo, a still from the film, is of Ann Magnuson &amp;nbsp;as "Miriam."&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-8463805971703416734?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/8463805971703416734/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=8463805971703416734&amp;isPopup=true' title='16 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8463805971703416734'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8463805971703416734'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-serialized-interview-with-brian_17.html' title='Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Four of Five (featuring the short film &quot;Melissa&quot;)'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MRNY5dc9LGc/TnDSq6vwWOI/AAAAAAAAAp0/IjbXE_cEPWI/s72-c/ann-on-tv-150x150.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>16</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-7483219834057946179</id><published>2011-09-16T00:01:00.025-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-16T08:38:34.672-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot; perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Brian Pera'/><title type='text'>Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Three of Five</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dHsq10Bnvcw/TnDL_1kinSI/AAAAAAAAApw/_DRC2WJT4jY/s1600/Flacon-with-shadow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dHsq10Bnvcw/TnDL_1kinSI/AAAAAAAAApw/_DRC2WJT4jY/s400/Flacon-with-shadow.jpg" width="265" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Yesterdays two winners, chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://random.org/"&gt;random.org&lt;/a&gt;, are Fernando and Zazie! Get in touch with me at the e-mail to the left and I'll send your prize packages posthaste!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;“&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;For me, serialization means a story keeps on deepening and expanding over time.”&lt;/b&gt; -- Brian Pera, Writer and Director&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;“Woman’s Picture,” the film, is a beginning. Filmmaker Brian Pera plans to continue exploring these characters in an open-ended series of short, web-based films over the next ten years or so.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The segments, while at first view may seem unrelated as stories, do relate on “subterranean levels of mood and theme,” according to Pera. This is a process he likens to perfumes from a long established house like Chanel. Compare two of them, and the differences are obvious. But, when looking at the line through time, the differences become more muted, while the parallels become more apparent, and more complex.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for different angles. They’re listed at the end of this (and subsequent) posts. And stop by&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; for all sorts of interesting stuff. “Miriam,” which is to be released in early October, will be sold there, and through &lt;a href="http://luckyscent.com/"&gt;Lucky Scent&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Andy Tauer has provided a very generous allotment of sample prize packages for the drawing, too. Details appear at the end of this post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Pera has also done a fascinating series of short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes, loved ones and the links between them. Look for "Melissa" here on Saturday, September 17th.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;It seemed appropriate to serialize this interview, which was conducted online, as well. So it is appearing over a five day period.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Question 3&lt;/b&gt;: Which Miriam does the completed, real-life perfume “Miriam” represent to you?&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Pera: “The Miriam perfume is amazing to me. &amp;nbsp;I think Andy based it on the character and her world, as well as on Ann Magnuson's performance, but also on the things I'd written about my grandmother's perfume, and losing it, and how that felt. &amp;nbsp;So it's like another creative mind was there with me when that bottle of perfume shattered. Andy rescued it in a way by paying it homage. &amp;nbsp;The perfume he created isn't the same as my grandmother's was, but it doesn't need to be. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;What matters is that, based on this story I filmed -- which is grounded in real experience for me -- he created a new memory. That helps me deal with the fact that my grandmother's perfume, and my grandmother, are gone. &amp;nbsp;In a way, they're not gone now. &amp;nbsp;They live on in Miriam - in someone's appreciation for and understanding of what this person and her fragrance represented to me, the same way that Ann's performance memorializes them. &amp;nbsp;As far as how the Miriam perfume relates to the character in the film, it's replaced any perfume I might have imagined while we were shooting the piece. &amp;nbsp;For me, it's become the fragrance Miriam's mother wore, and when I smell it I feel like I might be a little closer to sharing in its importance to her, something that only exists in smell, way outside of words. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;By the time we filmed ROSE, the film which revisits Miriam and her mother, which takes place several years earlier, I imagined that the perfume we were all talking about was the one Andy's created. &amp;nbsp;So it was a nice creative exchange that way - my work inspiring him, and his inspiring mine. &amp;nbsp;The “Miriam” this fragrance represents to me is the one who values the past and lives with it both comfortably and uncomfortably, trying to reconcile it with the realities of the present. &amp;nbsp;The perfume is dreamy and strong like her, a space for the imagination. &amp;nbsp;It embodies her respect for people and places and the continuum of history and feeling they exist within.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for more exploration of “Woman’s Picture,” reviews and short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes. Links appear at the end of this post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;The drawing: Each day, I’ll pick two winners at random from that day’s comments, who will each win a package from Tauer Perfumes. This includes a sample of the fragrance “Miriam” and a sneak-preview DVD version of the “Miriam” short film, which opens in October. I’ll announce the names of the previous day’s winners with each day’s post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Previous winners of the “Miriam” package won’t be eligible to win again until the drawing for the Grand Prize, a purse-sized sprayer of “Miriam,” which all commenters are eligible to win. That random drawing will be held at the end of the five-day series, and announced at 9:00 a.m. US Eastern Daylight Time, Monday, Sept. 19th.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;All winners must contact me with postal details at the email listed to the left, by midnight US Eastern Daylight Time, Friday, Sept. 30th. Otherwise, I’ll do a random drawing to select alternates.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Other participating blogs are:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-fragrant-story-goes-on-interview.html"&gt;Perfume Shrine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: black;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: black;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://persolaise.blogspot.com/2011/09/evelyn-avenue-interview-miriam-give.html"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Persolaise&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3c00ee; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeposse.com/"&gt;Perfume Posse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Photo by Andy Tauer.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-7483219834057946179?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/7483219834057946179/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=7483219834057946179&amp;isPopup=true' title='15 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7483219834057946179'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7483219834057946179'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-serialized-interview-with-brian_16.html' title='Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Three of Five'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dHsq10Bnvcw/TnDL_1kinSI/AAAAAAAAApw/_DRC2WJT4jY/s72-c/Flacon-with-shadow.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>15</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-3127409535657784386</id><published>2011-09-15T00:01:00.013-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-15T06:31:37.674-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot; perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Brian Pera'/><title type='text'>Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Two of Five</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tRrGPGMCX0s/TnDE-E8N-1I/AAAAAAAAAps/sliNGpsPjXQ/s1600/miriam-back-slant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tRrGPGMCX0s/TnDE-E8N-1I/AAAAAAAAAps/sliNGpsPjXQ/s320/miriam-back-slant.jpg" width="260" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: purple; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Yesterday's 2 winners are Ewik and &amp;nbsp;CC Douglas! Get in touch with me at the email to the left and I'll send out your prize packages posthaste! (Winners chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://random.org/"&gt;random.org&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;“For me, serialization means a story keeps on deepening and expanding over time.” -- Brian Pera, Writer and Director&amp;nbsp;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Woman’s Picture,” the film, is a beginning. Filmmaker Brian Pera plans to continue exploring these characters in an open-ended series of short, web-based films over the next ten years or so.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The segments, while at first view may seem unrelated as stories, do relate on “subterranean levels of mood and theme,” according to Pera. This is a process he likens to perfumes from a long established house like Chanel. Compare two of them, and the differences are obvious. But, when looking at the line through time, the differences become more muted, while the parallels become more apparent, and more complex.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for different angles. They’re listed at the end of this (and subsequent) posts. And stop by &lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp; for all sorts of interesting stuff. “Miriam,” which is to be released in early October, will be sold there, and through &lt;a href="http://www.luckyscent.com/"&gt;Lucky Scent&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Andy Tauer has provided a very generous allotment of sample prize packages for the drawing, too. Details appear at the end of this post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Pera has also done a fascinating series of short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes, loved ones and the links between them. Look for "Melissa" here on Saturday, September 17&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 9.3px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #013266; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;It seemed appropriate to serialize this interview, which was conducted online, as well. So it is appearing over a five day period.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Question 2:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;“When you originally imagined Miriam’s mother’s perfume, what was it like?”&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Pera: “In the film, Miriam keeps her mother's unnamed signature perfume off to the side of her vanity, in a crystal decant it must have originally come in. &amp;nbsp;It's like a shrine there, and she has a ritual around it. &amp;nbsp;People who love perfume will recognize that ritual and I think relate to it pretty strongly. &amp;nbsp;Dressing the set, I put a tray nearby on the vanity with a variety of perfumes I selected from my own collection, all of them things I imagined Miriam would have inherited from her mother. &amp;nbsp;All those bottles are pretty full, which indicates that her mother didn't wear them much, whereas her mother's signature perfume is almost empty. &amp;nbsp;It's special. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Those other perfumes I put out were clues, pointing to what Miriam's mother's perfume might smell like, a combination of fragrances that would have been released around the same time. &amp;nbsp;They give her mother's unnamed perfume some kind of context for the viewer, showing where it situates itself in time. &amp;nbsp;I don't remember all of these perfumes I set out but I think they included Miss Balmain, Bal a Versailles, and Balenciaga Le Dix, some of my favorites.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;All those perfumes represent a bygone era and signify how temporary things are. But, at the same time, because Miriam has kept them, we see how we can make things last, carrying the past forward with us. &amp;nbsp;At the same time, I feel like Miriam's mother's signature perfume does something none of the others can, together or separately - which is why both women have revered it and kept it separate. &amp;nbsp;Somehow, Miriam and her mother made a strong personal connection with this fragrance, and I'm fascinated by that. &amp;nbsp;What endows one fragrance with those emotional properties, and not another? &amp;nbsp;How does a fragrance speak to us that way, cutting right to who we are and how we feel about things? &amp;nbsp;Miriam and her mother have a relationship with this fragrance which is like a relationship with a person. &amp;nbsp;It's definitely a relationship with each other, through this perfume. &amp;nbsp;For me that shows how huge a fragrance can be, how powerful and unique.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The perfume I had in mind as Miriam's mother's perfume while writing the script was Youth Dew by Estee Lauder. &amp;nbsp;I liked the idea of Estee Lauder because I'm fascinated by that brand and what it means to women in America, the way it has bonded mothers and daughters in this realm of fantasy and luxury and ideas of everyday American femininity over the years, and the way that's a shared fantasy, similar to the way Miriam shares her fantasy world of perfection with her viewers. &amp;nbsp;However, once I smelled Andy's version of Miriam, I couldn't picture anything else on the vanity there.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #073568; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for more exploration of “Woman’s Picture,” reviews and short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes. Links appear at the end of this post.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;The drawing&lt;/b&gt;: Each day, I’ll pick two winners at random from that day’s comments, who will each win a package from Tauer Perfumes. This includes a sample of the fragrance “Miriam” and a sneak-preview DVD version of the “Miriam” short film, which opens in October. I’ll announce the names of the previous day’s winners with each day’s post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Previous winners of the “Miriam” package won’t be eligible to win again until the drawing for the Grand Prize, a purse-sized sprayer of “Miriam,” which all commenters are eligible to win. That random drawing will be held at the end of the five-day series, and announced at 9:00 a.m. US Eastern Daylight Time, Monday, Sept. 19&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 8.7px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #00984d; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;All winners must contact me with postal details at the email listed to the left, by midnight US Eastern Daylight Time, Friday, Sept. 30&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 8.7px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;. Otherwise, I’ll do a random drawing to select alternates.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #073568; font: 13.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; line-height: 28.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Other participating blogs are:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-fragrant-story-goes-on-interview.html"&gt;Perfume Shrine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://persolaise.blogspot.com/2011/09/evelyn-avenue-interview-miriam-give.html"&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Persolaise&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeposse.com/"&gt;Perfume Posse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Photo by Andy Tauer.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-3127409535657784386?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/3127409535657784386/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=3127409535657784386&amp;isPopup=true' title='10 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3127409535657784386'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3127409535657784386'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-serialized-interview-with-brian_15.html' title='Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera -- Part Two of Five'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tRrGPGMCX0s/TnDE-E8N-1I/AAAAAAAAAps/sliNGpsPjXQ/s72-c/miriam-back-slant.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>10</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6053974424148880295</id><published>2011-09-14T00:01:00.051-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-14T15:36:41.474-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot; perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Brian Pera'/><title type='text'>Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fvwQ0w7GMkk/Tm5bSKHZMhI/AAAAAAAAApk/_a_m3qXoRs4/s1600/front2SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="264" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fvwQ0w7GMkk/Tm5bSKHZMhI/AAAAAAAAApk/_a_m3qXoRs4/s320/front2SM.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;“For me, serialization means a story keeps on deepening and expanding over time.” -- Brian Pera, Writer and Director&amp;nbsp;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;“Woman’s Picture,” the film, is a beginning. Filmmaker Brian Pera plans to continue exploring these characters in an open-ended series of short, web-based films over the next ten years or so.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The segments, while at first view may seem unrelated as stories, do relate on “subterranean levels of mood and theme,” according to Pera. This is a process he likens to perfumes from a long established house like Chanel. Compare two of them, and the differences are obvious. But, when looking at the line through time, the differences become more muted, while the parallels become more apparent, and more complex.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;It seemed appropriate to serialize this interview, which was conducted online, as well. So it will appear over a five day period.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Visit the other participating blogs for different angles. They’re listed at the end of this (and subsequent) posts. And stop by &lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp; for all sorts of interesting stuff. “Miriam,” which is to be released in early October, will be sold there, and through &lt;a href="http://www.luckyscent.com/"&gt;Lucky Scent&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Andy Tauer has provided a very generous allotment of sample prize packages for the drawing, too. Details appear at the end of this post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Pera has also done a fascinating series of short films in which women talk about their memories of perfumes, loved ones and the links between them. Look for "Melissa" here on Saturday, September 17th.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;The first question:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;“What was the fragrance’s development, the process of collaboration with Andy Tauer, like?”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Brian: “Andy and his work represent for me, in a way very few people do, what it means to be truly independent now. &amp;nbsp;Indie and independent are words which are used very loosely these days, but Andy sets an example which really clarifies what those terms essentially need to mean for me. &amp;nbsp;I feel a real kinship with his creative philosophy and practice and that's the reason I approached him in the first place. &amp;nbsp;It's the way I'd like to make films, not just now but always: following my own instincts, doing much of it myself, getting my hands dirty, making things, producing them, in a meaningful way which feels hand crafted and sincere rather than hyped and distorted by a thousand intermediaries. &amp;nbsp;It requires a strange admixture of humility and confidence, and I hope I'm moving toward that equilibrium as successfully as he has.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Andy read the screenplay and said yes, which shocked me. &amp;nbsp;I expected him to say no. &amp;nbsp;I felt I needed to ask and get it out of the way, and once he said no I could move on to others. &amp;nbsp;But he said yes, and away we went. &amp;nbsp;From the beginning he showed a lot of trust in me and faith in what I wanted to accomplish. &amp;nbsp;He started working on the fragrance very soon after he said yes. &amp;nbsp;He saw a first cut of the first three Woman's Picture short films, including MIRIAM. &amp;nbsp;We exchanged many letters discussing Miriam and her influences, relating it to our own experiences. &amp;nbsp;He told me pretty early on what direction he was considering going in. &amp;nbsp;We then talked about that, and I think he made a few modifications, as did I, and we moved on from there. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I think the creative process is both singular and universal, and I found that while the art of perfumery is obviously a lot different than filmmaking, the practices share many of the same struggles, challenges, and inspirations. &amp;nbsp;In one of the essays he wrote on perfumery, Edmond Roudnitska talked about imagination and the way it works - by association, by organization of accumulated influences and inspirations. &amp;nbsp;It means being open. &amp;nbsp;"The most insignificant detail - occasionally even one that is alien to the field of perfumes - can trigger a first association of ideas, which can entail another such association..." and so on, and all those associations graft themselves onto an initial idea like base notes and modifiers in a perfume.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;That's filmmaking, too, really. &amp;nbsp;So when Andy and I talk about combining the arts of perfume and film I think we're not just talking about the result but the process, the engagement; as artists we're both inspired by each other's creative world to make something new, and our imaginations work alongside each other, producing some third piece of art which exists in the mind of the smeller and viewer, who relates these things for herself. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Collaborations are pleasurable to me and I feel very comfortable with them, but few have been this rewarding and gratifying. &amp;nbsp;I think everyone who knows Andy's work knows something of Andy - that's the kind of artist he is, a very personal one. &amp;nbsp;I can tell you that's sincere and real. &amp;nbsp;He's a uniquely committed individual and I consider myself more than lucky to have engaged in this with someone so creatively generous and fearless.”&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font-family: Verdana; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;The drawing&lt;/b&gt;: Each day, I’ll pick two winners at random from that day’s comments, who will each win a package from Tauer Perfumes. This includes a sample of the fragrance “Miriam” and a DVD package with excerpts from "Woman's Picture," a bonus 15 minute short from the movie, and related short films from Evelyn Avenue, and the “Miriam” short film, which opens in Los Angeles in October. I’ll announce the names of the previous day’s winners with each day’s post.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Previous winners of the “Miriam” package won’t be eligible to win again until the drawing for the Grand Prize, a purse-sized sprayer of “Miriam,” which all commenters are eligible to win. That random drawing will be held at the end of the five-day series, and announced at 9:00 a.m. US Eastern Daylight Time, Monday, Sept. 19th.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;All winners must contact me with postal details at the email listed to the left, by midnight US Eastern Daylight Time, Friday, Sept. 30th. Otherwise, I’ll do a random drawing to select alternates.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Visit the other participating blogs&lt;/b&gt; for more exploration of “Woman’s Picture,” reviews and links to the other short films from &lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;in which women talk about their memories of perfumes.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-fragrant-story-goes-on-interview.html"&gt;Perfume Shrine&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp; (post up now)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://persolaise.blogspot.com/2011/09/evelyn-avenue-interview-miriam-give.html"&gt;Persolaise&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;(post up now)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/"&gt;Perfume Smellin Things&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;(September 21)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://perfumeposse.com/"&gt;Perfume Posse&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;(October 5)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Photo by Andy Tauer.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6053974424148880295?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6053974424148880295/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6053974424148880295&amp;isPopup=true' title='16 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6053974424148880295'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6053974424148880295'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/miriam-serialized-interview-with-brian.html' title='Miriam: A Serialized Interview with Brian Pera'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fvwQ0w7GMkk/Tm5bSKHZMhI/AAAAAAAAApk/_a_m3qXoRs4/s72-c/front2SM.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>16</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6328885001930807382</id><published>2011-09-12T13:34:00.001-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-13T13:00:54.646-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Miriam&quot;  perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Woman&apos;s Picture&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Brian Pera'/><title type='text'>Coming Attractions: "Woman's Picture," featuring "Miriam"</title><content type='html'>&lt;div&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X84CMC2mxFE/Tm5AUMr_TkI/AAAAAAAAApc/DMOTMR3erEg/s1600/miriam+box+edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X84CMC2mxFE/Tm5AUMr_TkI/AAAAAAAAApc/DMOTMR3erEg/s320/miriam+box+edit.jpg" width="211" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;A Five-Part Interview with "Woman's Picture" writer and director Brian Pera, and a generous daily drawing of "Miriam" samples, courtesy of Andy Tauer!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: large;"&gt;Beginning Wednesday, Sept. 14 and wrapping up (with a Grand Prize drawing) on Sunday, September 18.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6328885001930807382?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6328885001930807382/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6328885001930807382&amp;isPopup=true' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6328885001930807382'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6328885001930807382'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/09/coming-attractions-womans-picture.html' title='Coming Attractions: &quot;Woman&apos;s Picture,&quot; featuring &quot;Miriam&quot;'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X84CMC2mxFE/Tm5AUMr_TkI/AAAAAAAAApc/DMOTMR3erEg/s72-c/miriam+box+edit.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1991195413769427772</id><published>2011-09-05T18:00:00.002-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-05T16:17:22.436-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume reviews'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Jean-Louis Scherrer 2'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Chanel No. 22'/><title type='text'>Two from the Permanent Collection</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SSbxUI-RKkI/AAAAAAAAAJA/2IqdLHe7YcE/s1600-h/Paris+lady.jpg"&gt;&lt;img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271165742192077378" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SSbxUI-RKkI/AAAAAAAAAJA/2IqdLHe7YcE/s320/Paris+lady.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 231px;" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #4c1130; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I'm still on vacation, officially. This is a reprint from November, 2008, about two old favorites: Coco by Chanel, and Scherrer II by Jean-Louis Scherrer. I'll be back on Wednesday, September 14 with a new post on "Miriam" from Andy Tauer, and Brian Pera's film "Woman's Picture."&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Before I became a semi-&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"&gt;perfumista&lt;/span&gt;, I had two scents that I wore from time to time, but only in winter. They were Chanel No. 22 EDT and Jean-Louis &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt; 2. Both were strong and sultry, and I thought of them as “old and French.” (This is not a joke.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;They just &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"&gt;didn&lt;/span&gt;’t smell American. They &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"&gt;weren&lt;/span&gt;’t light or fresh or clean. They were accessories for a Big Night, obviously seductive, with huge &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"&gt;sillage&lt;/span&gt; and forever longevity.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt;, especially; to this day it is my longest-lived perfume. And this is EDT, mind you. (A disclaimer here: my bottle is from the early Nineties, as is the Chanel, so chances are we’re talking about real, &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"&gt;unreformulated&lt;/span&gt; juice.) I always thought of these two in tandem. They’re different of course; different notes. The &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt; is a rich, dark take on the white floral. The Chanel (also early 90’s EDT) is all about &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"&gt;aldehydes&lt;/span&gt; and incense. But they share a table.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I don’t think anyone reading this needs to know more than they already do about Coco Chanel and the Chanel fragrances. No. 22 seems to be in great demand, particularly the perfume, everywhere. The &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt; is different. It's a bit of a secret. (Jean-Louis &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt; also makes the excellent big green &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"&gt;Chypre&lt;/span&gt; “Jean-Louis &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt;,” released in 1980. That one is a little more well-known than this, but not much.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I got curious about Jean-Louis &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt;, the designer. It appears that he dressed some of the world’s most opulent women: Queen &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"&gt;Noor&lt;/span&gt;, Francoise Sagan, Sophia Loren. (I use the past tense, because in 1992 he was fired from his own company due to financial problems. He sued and won some money, but not the use of his name.) He dressed many wealthy Arab women, a specialty. My guess is that &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt; 2, released in 1986, was made for them.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Chanel No. 22 was released in 1922 and, I was a bit surprised to learn, has been associated with bobbed hair, ropes of pearls, chemise dresses – in other words, flappers. I think of &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17"&gt;Habanita&lt;/span&gt; in those terms, but this would make sense, too; the sparkly &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18"&gt;aldehydes&lt;/span&gt; bubbling up like champagne; the in-your-face, supremely modern quality it would have had at that time. One &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19"&gt;couldn&lt;/span&gt;’t have ignored it then. One can’t ignore it now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt;, though, is my favorite of the two. I love its dark honeyed &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21"&gt;floral essence&lt;/span&gt;. This scent says “rich.” It’s an Eighties fragrance &lt;em&gt;fer sure&lt;/em&gt;, with that long, long list of notes. I can smell it on a fur coat, not that I have one. If Chanel No. 22 is pearls, then this is pigeon-blood rubies, or maybe big flashy diamonds, or how about pigeon-blood rubies surrounded by big flashy diamonds? (Hey, I &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22"&gt;didn&lt;/span&gt;’t say it was subtle – it most certainly is not.) To me, it still smells “French.” And it comes in a beautiful Art Deco bottle.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Once in a while, it’s kind of nice to feel rich. To give up the tasteful lady act. Like on Christmas Eve, or New Year’s Eve. Especially when one can find something like this for around $35.00 at the online discounters.*&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Hey…I won’t let on about that if you won’t!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;*Scherrer II has been discontinued and is rarer than it used to be, but is available here and there for around $40.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Notes for Jean-Louis &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24"&gt;Scherrer&lt;/span&gt;  2 include &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25"&gt;aldehydes&lt;/span&gt;, &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26"&gt;bergamot&lt;/span&gt;, “green notes,” pineapple, anise, jasmine, Mandarin, orris root, peach, Lily of the Valley, honey, rose, musk, sandalwood, amber, &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27"&gt;vetiver&lt;/span&gt;, &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28"&gt;benzoin&lt;/span&gt; and vanilla.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Notes for Chanel No. 22 include &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29"&gt;aldehydes&lt;/span&gt;, jasmine, rose, tuberose, &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30"&gt;ylang&lt;/span&gt;-&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31"&gt;ylang&lt;/span&gt;, incense, vanilla, &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32"&gt;opopnax&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33"&gt;vetiver&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Photo of Parisian lady by Eric for Paris Daily Photo.com (&lt;a href="http://www.paris.dailyphoto.com/"&gt;http://www.paris.dailyphoto.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1991195413769427772?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1991195413769427772/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1991195413769427772&amp;isPopup=true' title='5 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1991195413769427772'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1991195413769427772'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2008/11/two-from-permanent-collection.html' title='Two from the Permanent Collection'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SSbxUI-RKkI/AAAAAAAAAJA/2IqdLHe7YcE/s72-c/Paris+lady.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>5</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6001871029164576342</id><published>2011-08-29T14:15:00.002-04:00</published><updated>2011-09-02T08:10:31.166-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume reviews'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Nuit Noire'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='cultural hygiene'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Mona di Orio'/><title type='text'>CleanAmerica and Nuit Noire</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SvDNbtLI4TI/AAAAAAAAAYs/c8RHP8PbDnM/s1600-h/dreamstime_9872715.jpg"&gt;&lt;img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400041829083701554" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SvDNbtLI4TI/AAAAAAAAAYs/c8RHP8PbDnM/s320/dreamstime_9872715.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 203px;" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #4c1130; font-family: georgia;"&gt;For the next two weeks, I'm going to be on vacation -- back September 14 as part of the launch of Andy Tauer's new perfume "Miriam," in conjunction with Brian Pera's "Woman's Picture." In the meantime, I'll post reprints from awhile back -- this one from 2009, about the soon to be discontinued Nuit Noire, from Mona di Orio. (The comments are from the original post, too -- feel free to leave a new one!) See you September 14th!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;I’ve always loved what in perfumeland is euphemistically called “skank.” It’s something most Americans don’t want to think about, much less wear.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;But, for many fragrance lovers, skank is great stuff. I’ve been thinking about fragrance “families” a lot, and, like most systems of classification, these can be endlessly divided and subdivided. Even “skank” is an, uh, blanket term -- there are different kinds -- the musky ones, tangy ones, earthy ones and so on. Today, I’m talking about civet, and Mona di Orio’s &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Nuit Noire&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Civet! OMG! The well-replicated modern recreation of the anal gland secretions of the civet cat, actually a member of the mongoose sub-classification! If there is ONE perfume ingredient in all the world that is just about guaranteed to make the modern all-American hetero male turn up his nose in horror, it’s civet. I’ve been wondering exactly why that is.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Before germ theory came along, disease was blamed on “bad air,” or miasma. Until the research of Louis Pasteur and other scientists took off in the late 19th century, it still was, and although cultures differed in their ideals of body hygiene, living spaces were filthy by modern standards. But when the populations of Britain and, even more so, North America, realized that microbes were in fact the culprits, and that they were little beasties with life cycles of their own, cleanliness became much like bad religion. Allowing these invisible enemies to thrive inside one’s home, or, godforbid one’s body, became not only a sin, but a form of gross neglect. At roughly the same time -- the decades around 1900 -- advertising began its rise to power. By the Fifties, no germ was safe, or so we thought.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Then, in the late Sixties/Seventies, “natural” became the ideal, drifting out of California like most things did then. Shining, unsprayed hair, washed every day; skin without a trace of odor, glowing tans, perfect white teeth, neutral breath: healthy. That ideal is still with us. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;I bring all of this up because I received a sample of &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Nuit Noire &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;in the mail yesterday. I applied it lavishly, for me, noting that, hmmm, yes, there was a certain, er, &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;fecal&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt; quality. I was just beginning to analyze it thoroughly when my husband came home. Usually he’s pretty good about my fragrance experimentation. Not this time. “Jesus,” he said. “That stinks.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;O-&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;kay&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;. So this is one of those love-or-hate-it ones. The perfumer probably could have used a lighter hand with the skank, but to what end? To produce something that smells like fifty other perfumes? This stuff is brave. It’s like a dare. It’s perfumery taken to the furthest extreme I’ve yet experienced. I like that.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Those who love it seem to really love it. And those who don’t -- well, let's just say that they really, really don't.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;I remember once reading about a study on the effects of skatole -- an essential molecule of the “fecal” note. A group of subjects were, um, subjected to a blast of air scented with animal excrement. None lasted more than five minutes. Physiological reactions, such as rise in blood pressure and increased sweating, and ultimately nausea, were observed.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;(One has to wonder about these subjects.  Don’t any of them own cats? Were they all male Oxford undergraduates who have never been near a loaded diaper? But I digress.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Oddly enough, when you think of the classic perfumes of the germophobic mid-Twentieth century, most are 1.) French and 2.) have got at least a little civet in them. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;I find this to be really interesting. Perhaps it was a vestige of our animal nature’s giving the finger to the midcentury onslaught of household and body cleaning products and the ubiquitous advertising, intended to produce guilty housewives, that promoted them. Perhaps, on some deeper level, the women who wore these perfumes knew that scrubbed-clean, while appealing, isn’t exactly alluring. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Would I wear this fragrance to the grocery store? Probably not. Would I wear it for a special evening out with hubby? Definitely not. Will I wear it when I’m alone? You bet! &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Here’s what else I’m going to do with my &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Nuit Noire&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;: I’m going to layer it under various other fragrances and see what happens. I’ve already tried it with the modern version of Bal a’Versilles and, yeah, there’s that...&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;ooomph&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt; that’s been missing. I wonder what it would do for one of those stone-cold roses. Or some timid little office-appropriate floral.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Or some reformulated horror that smells like a melted Mr. Clean popsicle.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;Hmmmm. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;T&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;he official notes for Nuit Noire do not include civet (!) But just about every reviewer swears it’s in there, and so do I. It’s classified as a “spicy Oriental” with a top of orange flower (aha!) and cardamom; base notes include leather, amber, musk and tonka. The perfumer is Mona di Orio.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Photo copyright Ruslanchik. Used under license from &lt;/span&gt;&lt;a href="http://dreamstime.com/"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Dreamstime.com.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #000066;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6001871029164576342?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6001871029164576342/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6001871029164576342&amp;isPopup=true' title='5 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6001871029164576342'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6001871029164576342'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2009/11/cleanamerica-and-nuit-noire.html' title='CleanAmerica and Nuit Noire'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SvDNbtLI4TI/AAAAAAAAAYs/c8RHP8PbDnM/s72-c/dreamstime_9872715.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>5</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-4641764659179046534</id><published>2011-08-22T12:56:00.001-04:00</published><updated>2011-08-22T12:57:55.800-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='book review'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;The Lantern&quot;'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Harper-Collins'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Deborah Lawrenson'/><title type='text'>The Lantern -- Book Review</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sz7XONPTEIU/TlKHIck0CHI/AAAAAAAAApY/8sb32UyFMAI/s1600/The-Lantern-final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sz7XONPTEIU/TlKHIck0CHI/AAAAAAAAApY/8sb32UyFMAI/s320/The-Lantern-final.jpg" width="213" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;A month or so ago, Harper-Collins sent me a new novel, “The Lantern,” by Deborah Lawrenson, to review. The book is set in Provence, and a minor character becomes a perfumer. Hence sending review copies to perfume bloggers such as myself. I do appreciate the outside-the-box thinking that went into this.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;About the book itself: My opinion is mixed. It’s a gothic novel, not anything I’d usually read. But I do love good travel writing. Much of this book reads like it.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The narrative switches back and forth between Eve, a modern young woman who has fallen in love with a mysterious older man and followed him to a farm in Provence, and Bénédicte, daughter of the original farm family, now present only in spirit. It is Bénédicte’s sister, afflicted with congenital progressive blindness, who becomes the successful perfumer.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;As their idyllic summer fades to autumn, Eve begins to realize that she and her lover, Dom, are not alone in their ancient farmhouse. Past residents begin to make their presence known. As Eve’s veil of infatuation lifts with time, she becomes aware that Dom has a past, and a secret.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;It is Bénédicte’s memories that form the sensual heart of the novel. Here she describes a late-summer day on the farm: “It was one of those days so intensely alive and aromatic, you could hear as well as smell the fig tree in the courtyard. Wasps hummed in the leaves as the fruit ripened and split; globes of warm, dark purple were dropping, ripping open as they landed with sodden gasps.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The book is full of passages like this. I don’t think anyone I’ve read has described Provence in such a tactile and olfactory way. The problem here is one of characterization.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“The Lantern” is something like a modern action movie, long on effects and short on character development. We never really know the protagonist, Eve, or her lover, Dom. He is like a cardboard cut-out; just there, walking through the plot, playing his part. I never could work up much sympathy for Eve, either, who seems alternately petulant and nosy. It is Bénédicte, the ghost narrator, whose presence is most keenly felt and whose memories resonate.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“The Lantern” is being marketed as similar to the Daphne du Maurier classic gothic story &lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Rebecca&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;. Somehow, I never read that. I’d like to now. There are similarities of course, gothic archetypes like the isolated protaganist, but the plot’s climax falls with a resounding thud -- all I could think was “That’s&lt;i&gt; it&lt;/i&gt;? &lt;i&gt;That’s&lt;/i&gt; the big dark secret?” Perhaps these all-too-modern characters simply don’t fit the gothic &lt;i&gt;milieu &lt;/i&gt;well; perhaps that’s why Bénédicte’s wise presence saves the story, to some extent.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;What is heartening about this book is the emphasis on the olfactory sense, usually ignored in fiction, and the writer's obvious love of classic fragrance. The expression “you could almost smell it” applies perfectly here, in Bénédicte’s beautiful descriptions of Provincial farm life.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“The Lantern,” from Harper-Collins, came out August 9&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 8.7px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;. It’s available in the usual places. ISBN is 978-0-06-204969-8.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The image shown here is the cover of the advance reader’s edition. The “real” cover is slightly different.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-4641764659179046534?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/4641764659179046534/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=4641764659179046534&amp;isPopup=true' title='1 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/4641764659179046534'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/4641764659179046534'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/08/lantern-book-review.html' title='The Lantern -- Book Review'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sz7XONPTEIU/TlKHIck0CHI/AAAAAAAAApY/8sb32UyFMAI/s72-c/The-Lantern-final.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>1</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-2209406870979030550</id><published>2011-08-16T00:01:00.003-04:00</published><updated>2011-08-16T12:11:44.633-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Etat Libre d&apos;Orange'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Je Suis un Homme'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Eau de Pierlot'/><title type='text'>Two Sprites</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3keJAeK_KfA/TklfaulC1WI/AAAAAAAAApU/KvGrZQXXA0I/s1600/Seberg1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3keJAeK_KfA/TklfaulC1WI/AAAAAAAAApU/KvGrZQXXA0I/s1600/Seberg1.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;This summer has amounted to one long heat wave. Today is the first day the high might not &lt;i&gt;quite&lt;/i&gt; reach ninety. I’m holding my breath, as are we all, hoping for an early autumn.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;There are a few signs. The leaves on the dogwood trees are blushing, just slightly. The birds are unusually ravenous, emptying our feeder (which holds a pound or so of seed) almost daily. The garden has gone to seed, too.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;All summer, I’ve been switching back and forth between Claudie Pierlot’s “Eau de Pierlot” and Etat Libre d’Orange’s “Je Suis Un Homme.” On the surface, it would seem as though they haven’t much in common, but they do; chief among that is a heady peppery note and, of course, citrus, which is lemonish in the Pierlot, and citron with orange bigarade in the Je Suis.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;There’s hardly any information available on the Eau de Pierlot. It isn’t sold at retail here in the U.S., although it’s fairly well-distributed in Europe. Claudie Pierlot is a French fashion designer, specializing in a sort of punkish gamine look that made me think of Jean Seberg in “A Bout de Souffle,” Jean-Luc Goddard’s 1960 film that was retitled “Breathess” for its release in the English-speaking world. (If you haven’t seen the film, you must do so immediately!) The fragrance is a sprightly orange blossom with citrus and peppery aldehydes that hit the trigeminal nerve, giving that little dart of effervescence. That's&amp;nbsp;followed by a light citrusy orange blossom -- the lightest I've ever smelled -- and a gently animalic musk. I’ve been wearing it almost every day this summer. It layers well, with anything I’ve tried -- other summer scents, teas and citruses. And one of my favorite combinations pairs it with Etat Libre de Orange’s “Je Suis un Homme,” which I regularly swipe off my husband’s dresser-top; one on each arm, one on the front and the other on the back of my neck; you get the idea.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Je Suis” has been around for awhile, a relatively early offering from Etat Libre d’Orange, the renegade Paris perfumery. Reading the list of notes surprised me, because this is one of the few scents that doesn’t send me to databases to figure them out. I don’t really care, truth be told. I’ve picked a few, of course -- orange bigarade, citron, check. Definitely there. The rest, though, are so well-blended that I haven’t ever tried to deconstruct them -- things like myrtle, and something slightly tarry, cognac, and some animalic base. Je Suis isn’t sweet, at all, in any way. Eau de Pierlot is just slightly so. Worn together, they compliment each other in a classic sum-of-the-parts way. Eau de Pierlot calms the Je Suis, which some have called a rough ride.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I guess I’ll be putting these away soon, getting out the early fall scents and the take-no-prisoners stonking winter orientals I adore. We have four distinct seasons here. I try to celebrate them by living seasonally in every way, with food and wine as well as perfume. In Southern California, where I used to live, there are seasons, but they’re subtle. It’s not unusual for summer to extend well into October. Here in Atlanta, we can count on autumn. Sometimes it’s short, but it always shows up.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Do you wear perfumes differently in different seasons?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Eau de Pierlot” is hard to find, but I know somebody….(details below). “Je Suis un Homme” can be ordered from the niche perfume sites and stores.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 11.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Eau de Pierlot” by Claudie Pierlot may be found, in very limited quantities, at &lt;a href="http://waftbycarol.blogspot.com/"&gt;WAFT's niche perfume boutique.&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;Decants are also available there.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 11.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 12.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 11.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Breathless” is available from Netflix, and shows up in revival houses sometimes. Seaberg plays Patricia Franchini, a bohemian American student who gets involved with a small-time hood (Jean-Paul Belmondo). The story was written by Francois Truffaut, screenplay and direction by Jean-Luc Goddard.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 11.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 12.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 11.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The photo of Jean Seberg is a still from the film, and falls under general fair-use designations.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 11.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 12.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-2209406870979030550?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/2209406870979030550/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=2209406870979030550&amp;isPopup=true' title='3 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2209406870979030550'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2209406870979030550'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/08/two-sprites.html' title='Two Sprites'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3keJAeK_KfA/TklfaulC1WI/AAAAAAAAApU/KvGrZQXXA0I/s72-c/Seberg1.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>3</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-8196707779521601025</id><published>2011-08-09T00:01:00.007-04:00</published><updated>2011-08-09T06:48:20.530-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Unforgettable'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='multi-level-marketing'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Avon'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='vintag fragrance'/><title type='text'>Unforgettable</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-614uJSjBC2E/TkAomKi0_zI/AAAAAAAAApQ/Ev2tiV_qS_E/s1600/Avon-1968.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-614uJSjBC2E/TkAomKi0_zI/AAAAAAAAApQ/Ev2tiV_qS_E/s400/Avon-1968.jpg" width="277" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I’ve always avoided vintage Avon perfumes because I’ve read that they have a pretty good chance of having “turned” over the years. So when I received a partial bottle of “Unforgettable” in &lt;i&gt;parfum&lt;/i&gt; strength from a generous pal, I didn’t even try it for a while.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;When I did, I was soundly impressed.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;“Unforgettable,” released in 1960, is an old fashioned everything's-in-it perfume. Heavily floral -- I detect some orange blossom/amber, which reminds me of the old Bal a Versailles and of vintage Givenchy “Organza Indecence” -- it dries down with a chypre-like pinch. There is not very much information available about it. According to Angela of &amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.nstperfume.com/2011/01/24/avon-unforgettable-fragrance-review/"&gt;"Now Smell This,"&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;a call to the company revealed that their internal database had been cleared of references to it. My bottle, obviously old and well-used, has a simple rectangular shape and a dented metal cap that looks like the family dog mistook it for a chew toy. What amazes me is that the perfume still smells so good. Dated, but good.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Researching this scent piqued my curiosity about the Avon company in general. As it turns out, the fond memory of well-dressed Avon Ladies ringing suburban doorbells is dated, too. In 2005, Avon Products Inc. went to a business model based on Multi Level Marketing, usually called "MLM." In 2009, Avon admitted in a report to the SEC that the company uses income gained through recruitment as a countermeasure to reduced product sales -- in other words, MLM.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I could bore you to death with reports and Federal Trade Commission documents and letters touting both sides -- all of which I’ve looked at -- but I’ll try not to. (References appear at the end of this post.) In recent years, the revenue from Avon’s actual sales has declined, while the number of sales representatives has greatly increased. This is pretty simple math. And the Great Big Hope of American manufacturers in these times, China, has passed firm anti-MLM restrictions, as its government believes MLMs to be “inherently fraudulent.” These are so restrictive that several Avon executives were investigated under the auspices of the U.S. Foreign Corrupt Practices Act.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;To be fair, the company claims some important differences from the classic MLM pyramid model. These include training the recruits, prohibiting newbies from recruiting until they reach a certain level of sales, requiring no startup inventory, and providing support via national advertising and biweekly catalogs. My research revealed two selling paradigms -- the “Single” level direct selling, where reps start out (and may stay if they want to) and the MLM structure, in which they are encouraged to recruit friends, relatives, co-workers, then compensated with a percentage of their sales &amp;nbsp;-- you know this drill.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;I know it well. I’ve been acquainted with several people and talked to many more who got caught up in MLM and ended up with garages full of soap and/or supplements. My guess is that Avon probably begins pushing recruits toward the MLM model pretty quickly after they sign up, because recruiting is the real goal. This is because the real product -- true for all MLMs -- is stars-in-the-eyes hope. The reality is that most MLM recruits don’t do very well, once they run out of friends, acquaintances and co-workers. When they realize that the actual job involves selling to and recruiting strangers, they often quit.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;In the early 2000’s, the Federal Trade Commission proposed a rule (R511993) which would limit the activities of MLM’s. The details included disclosure statements, to be provided to new recruits during a mandated 7-day waiting period; records of cancellations within two years of signup and an earnings claim statement to potential recruits.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Predictably, the fireworks of protest from MLMs came thick and fast, sometimes in the form of lawyerly documents. I found one from an attorney representing Avon to the FTC. It’s pages and pages (and pages) of attorney-speak, definitions and redefinitions, lists of Avon activities that purportedly don’t fit the MLM mold, and suggestions on how the FTC might want to amend the ruling. These involved exempting public companies from the new rule, exempting companies belonging to the industry trade group Direct Selling Association -- now, &lt;i&gt;there’s&lt;/i&gt; some twisted logic -- deleting the waiting period, defining a threshold investment amount and on and on and on.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;When I visualize a co-worker or acquaintance coming at me with that everything's-great smile, inviting me to some event I know is an excuse for an MLM pitch, I shudder. I have to admit that I’m horrified at the idea of viewing friends as potential recruits, especially since most people fail at MLM selling. &amp;nbsp;The cultlike culture of MLM tends to draw people without much to lose.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;It seems that Avon &lt;i&gt;has&lt;/i&gt; turned, to this questionable way of doing business.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;So, when you see bottles of Avon perfume at the next garage or estate sale, remember what they once meant -- opportunity for entrepreneurial women. Like most things in business, it's all different now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The photo is from a vintage advertising &amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.vintageadbrowser.com/"&gt;catalog&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;showing a model holding one of (many) variations of the “Unforgettable” bottle. Others were swans, a snail, a lay-down bottle with a turbanlike cap and a candlestick, and probably many more.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Information on product sales vs. recruitment came primarily from the &lt;a href="http:// pyramidschemealert.org/has-mlm-corrupted-avon/"&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;and from my work as a consumer counselor.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;The lawyerly protest letter can be found&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&amp;amp;q=cache:VlZwjH0R9vQJ:www.ftc.gov/os/comments/businessopprule/522418-70001.pdf+R511993+AND+Avon&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;gl=us&amp;amp;pid=bl&amp;amp;srcid=ADGEESgDbEHVYPaQlNN7FabLSPewRnMapPawUky8wV5LosblHBWh9Q6C_6io4wkHo8DMCVq5jYPtffUsfU4LHS82Otdf9Dmg9HW0KOwLw70q8JLyPT0ykfmIzJwRxRuZSmDmqRYCsl-H&amp;amp;sig=AHIEtbQ_nVukdLxwlHkkp81t_TwVtdgoZA"&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-8196707779521601025?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/8196707779521601025/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=8196707779521601025&amp;isPopup=true' title='6 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8196707779521601025'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8196707779521601025'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/08/unforgettable.html' title='Unforgettable'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-614uJSjBC2E/TkAomKi0_zI/AAAAAAAAApQ/Ev2tiV_qS_E/s72-c/Avon-1968.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>6</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-2891503187014309752</id><published>2011-08-08T08:00:00.006-04:00</published><updated>2011-08-08T08:00:17.168-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume sample drawing'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Pentachords winner'/><title type='text'>Pentachords Winner</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j5ZUWtKsJK4/Tj_E89NWNoI/AAAAAAAAApM/yXVgCBS0Zzs/s1600/roulette-wheel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="205" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j5ZUWtKsJK4/Tj_E89NWNoI/AAAAAAAAApM/yXVgCBS0Zzs/s320/roulette-wheel.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;...is IRINA!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Irina, send me your postal details at Olfactarama at att dot net.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;The winner was chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.random.org/"&gt;random.org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Congratulations to Irina and thanks to all the other entrants.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Back tomorrow with a real post!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-small;"&gt;(photo from Google Images. Original source, Carroll College "Student Life" catalog.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-2891503187014309752?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/2891503187014309752/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=2891503187014309752&amp;isPopup=true' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2891503187014309752'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2891503187014309752'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/08/pentachords-winner.html' title='Pentachords Winner'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j5ZUWtKsJK4/Tj_E89NWNoI/AAAAAAAAApM/yXVgCBS0Zzs/s72-c/roulette-wheel.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-7574094348617993129</id><published>2011-08-01T14:23:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-08-01T14:23:32.600-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Andy Tauer'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Pentachords'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume samples drawing'/><title type='text'>Pentachords, from Andy Tauer -- a samples drawing</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-0XYmI6lVQ/TjbscfPo7rI/AAAAAAAAApI/_M6pdmn-26s/s1600/tauers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-0XYmI6lVQ/TjbscfPo7rI/AAAAAAAAApI/_M6pdmn-26s/s320/tauers.jpg" width="298" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;In an interview Andy Tauer gave recently, he talks candidly about these new fragrances, and how they came about. The central issue was a difficulty he was having working with iris roots in the development of a previous fragrance. Since that’s one of his favorite and most-used notes, he had a problem to solve.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;He wondered, he says, &lt;i&gt;if&lt;/i&gt;. &amp;nbsp;If a scent could be reduced to its fundamentals while still being harmonious. If the classic pyramid structure could be transcended in a way that would still leave room for development. If he could come up with a series based on these ideas that would work; what to call it, how to describe it. If stepping onto an alternate path for a time would fit with his developing brand.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Near the end of the interview he speaks of how he came to the decision to do this. New roads; the creative process itself in which nothing is ever really “finished,” but can always be better, which is well-known to any artist. And the knowledge that a new road leads to discovery of all sorts of other new aspects that can be applied to one’s new work, and as tweaks (which are hard to resist) to one’s older work.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;The battle of Natural vs. Synthetics goes on, of course; Tauer’s previous work has mixed them in quite complex formulas. These fragrances, the Pentachords, are made from synthetic molecules. The intellectual and creative challenge he gave himself -- construct 3 perfumes using only 5 ingredients each-- meant that every ingredient had to perform every function expected of a perfume. Using the molecules was part of the solution. The other part was using the most interesting molecules, ones that evolve on skin as naturals do, in harmony with one another. He tried a number of synthetics, most notably a variation Irone Alpha -- as expensive as rose absolute -- before finding the right ones.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;These words are a joy to write. Not many perfumers would ever consider revealing their own artistic processes, much less their dilemmas. This speaks to perfumery as art, in a way we’d all love to see more of...ok, already, what do they &lt;i&gt;smell like&lt;/i&gt;?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;There are three, the series named after the five-note diatonic scale, the individual fragrances named after the colors they evoked to Tauer.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“&lt;b&gt;Verdant&lt;/b&gt;” is a green (are you surprised?) After the initial leafy burst, it reminds me of walking into a humidor. There is tobacco here, making this very different from most “green” scents, with their usual trinity of galbanum/vetiver/violet leaf. Tauer fans will recognize a bit of spice, too, along with the hints of galbanum and leather. It’s not sweet, nor is it sharp. It’s a great masculine and a distinctively different feminine.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“&lt;b&gt;Auburn&lt;/b&gt;” is a Tauer through and through. It’s a bit like his "Orange Star," with its fruity-not-bitter orange, a bit of honey and lily like his "Zeta," and a dash of L’air du Desert Marocain (just a dash) in there too. Lately I’ve been exploring the world of mixology, in which cocktails are constructed much like perfumes. I’d love to see how a flavorist would approach these notes.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“&lt;b&gt;White&lt;/b&gt;,” my personal favorite, has been described in terms of snow and silvery violet, but to me it opens with rich, foody vanilla, then a strong violet aspect and a base of ambroxan (or one of the other myriad names which describe synthetic ambergris) and some white-woody musk. Try as I might, I can’t see this cold; it’s divinity, an old-fashioned kind of white candy my grandmother made. The violet, which is the aforementioned irone alpha, does shift and glimmer. (Most ionones render me asnomic to practically everything else in the fragrance; this doesn’t.) All this being said, “White” is a cool-weather fragrance, which I plan to wear when our weather cools (if it ever does).&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;And these &lt;i&gt;last&lt;/i&gt;. The “White” in particular lasted, even on me, all day.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;These fragrances won’t be released worldwide until mid-September. At the moment, they’re only available at Campo Marzio, in Rome. Be the first of your friends...leave a comment, any comment, by midnight, &amp;nbsp;August 7, US Eastern Daylight time. I’ll do a random drawing and send the winner the pictured set of generous carded samples.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="color: #3100b0; font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px color: #000000;"&gt;To watch the interview with Andy Tauer, go&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.extrait.it/andy-tauer-presenta-la-nuova-collezione-pentachords/"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Full disclosure: The sample sets were set to me by Tauer Perfumes.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-7574094348617993129?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/7574094348617993129/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=7574094348617993129&amp;isPopup=true' title='39 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7574094348617993129'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7574094348617993129'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/08/pentachords-from-andy-tauer-samples.html' title='Pentachords, from Andy Tauer -- a samples drawing'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-0XYmI6lVQ/TjbscfPo7rI/AAAAAAAAApI/_M6pdmn-26s/s72-c/tauers.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>39</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1760992158360665589</id><published>2011-07-26T06:40:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-07-26T06:40:00.734-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Dawn Spencer Hurwitz'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Olfactory Synesthesia'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Parfums de Beaux Arts'/><title type='text'>Synethesia: Color and Fragrance</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUILKKbw7HU/Ti25I3eJJ9I/AAAAAAAAApE/yL21tPRWF10/s1600/Synesthesia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="243" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUILKKbw7HU/Ti25I3eJJ9I/AAAAAAAAApE/yL21tPRWF10/s320/Synesthesia.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: red; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;And the winner is: &amp;nbsp;Lucy! Send postal details to me at olfactarama at att dot net and I’ll send you the samples posthaste!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Back in June, artisanal perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz graciously sent me a set of nine fragrances she calls the CHROMA Collection. She explores fragrance as a synesthete -- someone who is able to cross sensory fields such as color and scent. I’ve been interested in synesthesia for some time and have finally had the time to evaluate these properly.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The term “Synesthesia,” if you look it up, describes an involuntary brain condition. Sometimes it results from brain injury, while some are born with it. The form I’ve seen mentioned most is “seeing” letters or numbers in color, as in&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #e06666;"&gt;1&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;"&gt;2&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: cyan;"&gt;3&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;"&gt;4&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"&gt;5&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: magenta;"&gt;6&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #38761d;"&gt;7&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;. There are other forms, too: visual/auditory for example, like “seeing” musical notes.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Studies on olfactory synesthesia are sparse. The sense of smell is still taking the back seat to vision and hearing, pretty much everywhere, but there have been some efforts. One, from&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;What the Nose Knows&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;author Avery Gilbert and partners, identified a link between superior odor perception and the ability to conjure imagery when presented with an odor. In other words, those of us who are constantly evaluating and identifying “notes” in perfumes should be able to visualize them as colors more easily than those who don't.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;I can, fairly easily. (This does not make me as a synesthete, though. The condition “Synesthesia” is involuntary, whereas I have to think about what color a scent might be.) But do we visualize the&amp;nbsp;&lt;i&gt;same&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;colors as others? Would I “see” the same colors the perfumer saw?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;So, in a spectacularly unscientific experiment, I covered the labels on the nine bottles so I could not see the name nor the color of the juice, then mixed them up. I numbered nine scent strips and got to it, applying fragrance to the strips, smelling them twice over a 5 minute period, and writing down my guesses (and the “right” answer, afterward) in real time. Here’s what happened.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;# 1.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;I’ve smelled this before. It smells like cherries, fruit. Red. Cherry Red. (Answer:&amp;nbsp;&lt;span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;“Quinacrodone Violet,” based on the very bright and very synthetic artists’&amp;nbsp;&lt;span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;pigment of that name, which is a sort of fuschia.) I would have guessed&amp;nbsp;&lt;span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;“Quinacrodone Red,” a cherry red.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;#2.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Peppery and green, not like leaves, but a warmish blue-green. (Answer:&amp;nbsp;“Celadon.” &amp;nbsp;Close.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;#3. &amp;nbsp;Foresty. (Answer: "Blue-Green.") Pretty good.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;#4.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;Fresh. Freshness. I can’t see this as a particular color, but I know it’s from the cool end of the spectrum. (Answer: “Viridian.”) &amp;nbsp;In pigment, an intense blue-green that isn’t very strong in mixes.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font-size: medium; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;#5. A yellow? No: "Cyan," which is the green-blue used in printing and also the blue tone in light, like the screen you're probably staring at right now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;#6.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Ginger? No, licorice. But something about this reminds me of a natural yellow ochre, a warm earthy yellow. (Answer: it’s “Prince,” which Hurwtiz says in her notes was a textile color from the 17&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 9.3px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 14px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;century, an indigo-blue-black shot through with crimson red.”) I would never have guessed black. Never.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;ol style="list-style-type: decimal;"&gt;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;#7. I see purple. A cool, blue-purple. (Answer: Wrong again! It’s “Sienna,” which is a&amp;nbsp;warm, coppery brown.)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;#8. &amp;nbsp;Okay, this is a citrus. Um, orange. (Answer: Yes! It's "The Color Orange.")&lt;/span&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;# 9. This is a spice, woody kind of scent. A brown. We’ve already done Sienna. Is it an&amp;nbsp;&lt;span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;umber? (Answer: Yes! It is, in fact, “Umber.”)&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I got approximately 4 out of 9, but there is a problem here (or perhaps this is just a very badly designed experiment.) I know Hurwitz wouldn’t use the same color twice in a 9-bottle collection. So, since I eliminated the used colors as I went down the list, my chance of success became greater. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;If I did this over again, I’d wait and smell the strips before unveiling the bottles. And I would ask someone else to do the test &amp;nbsp;-- somebody who doesn’t know and/or doesn’t care about perfume.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As perfumes, my decidedly non-objective preferences are # 2 -- “Celedon” -- and # 7 -- “Sienna,”&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;but all are interesting and unique.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Do you “see” perfumes as colors? Do you have to think about it first?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Click&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.dshperfumes.com/"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;for more information on Parfums des Beaux Arts.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;T&lt;/span&gt;he Avery Gilbert reference is from “What The Nose Knows -- The Science of Scent In Everyday Life” by Avery Gilbert, Crown, 2008 (ISBN 978-1-4000-8234-6) p. 132.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;The original paper appeared in the American Journal of Psychology, 1996 Fall; 109(3):335-51.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Photo by author.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Winner chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://www.random.org/"&gt;random.org.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Georgia; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1760992158360665589?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1760992158360665589/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1760992158360665589&amp;isPopup=true' title='16 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1760992158360665589'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1760992158360665589'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/07/synethesia-color-and-fragrance.html' title='Synethesia: Color and Fragrance'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUILKKbw7HU/Ti25I3eJJ9I/AAAAAAAAApE/yL21tPRWF10/s72-c/Synesthesia.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>16</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-7999585097980260795</id><published>2011-07-18T06:45:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-07-18T06:50:55.043-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='vintage perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Arpège'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume samples drawing'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='My Sin'/><title type='text'>Arpège vs. My Sin</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FjEOaqRuNDo/TiM3mCZSZpI/AAAAAAAAAo4/HMO7cvc24b4/s1600/Sophia_and_jayne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="295" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FjEOaqRuNDo/TiM3mCZSZpI/AAAAAAAAAo4/HMO7cvc24b4/s320/Sophia_and_jayne.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Wardrobe malfunctions are nothing new, as this infamous photo of Sophia Loren and Jayne Mansfield, taken at Romanoff’s restaurant in 1958, proves. I chose it to illustrate this post because it comes from the era of the knock-em-dead perfumes, formulated to stand up to a room full of other ones and a fog of cigarette smoke, the ladylike-at-first Arpège and the don’t-mess-with-me My Sin. Also, let’s face it, “versus” had to be the reason why these two ladies were seated (and photographed) together!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;My mother wore Arpège, but I don’t remember ever smelling My Sin. I suspect that My Sin wasn’t supposed to be applied while children were around, while Arpège could be worn, by the daring, during the day. In my own time of madly collecting the classics, I got a nearly full quarter-ounce bottle of My Sin &lt;i&gt;extrait&lt;/i&gt;. I received the matching bottle of Arpège not too long ago from a generous perfume pal. Both are vintage, in the rectangular flacon with the squared Bakelite top. My best guess is that these bottles are from the Fifties or Sixties.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Of the two, the My Sin is by far the most abstract, the most modern, in the sense of modern art. It’s nearly non-representational, and hugely aldehydic.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I waited for the florals to appear. And waited. And waited. They really never did. Instead, there’s incense, clove, more aldehydes, an abstract idea of flowers -- and it’s only an idea. “My Sin” is a chewy, challenging perfume, one I’d be very unlikely to wear in daylight. Maybe to an after-hours place. This is a night perfume. Late night.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Arpège opens aldehydic too, but the abstract notes are less so, and within a minute or two I can detect rose, and a sweet suggestion, probably of ylang-ylang. These are flowers, not a cubist painting of them. It’s much sweeter than My Sin. Much more pleasant, but also less challenging. It could be worn during the day. It could be worn to the bank, in a time when people actually went to banks, and although it fades faster than My Sin does, that errand-running Fifties housewife might want to get home before the drydown kicks in, because that part is, well, not quite, um, &amp;nbsp;&lt;i&gt;nice&lt;/i&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;When I think of the aldehydic florals, the spinsterish Madame Rochas comes to mind; the equally abstract Chanel No. 5, and this. &amp;nbsp;My Sin would take them all out in less than one round. That said, it is the most intellectually interesting, the most demanding, the least wearable in our time, but the most essential as a reference.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I noticed in researching Arpège that the notes list “Ambrein” as one of the ingredients. (Just how many variations on the phrase “fake ambegris” are there?) Ambrein, according to one source, is a conglomeration of bergamot, vanilla, coumarin, civet, benzoin, opoponax, Tolu balsalm and labdanum, all standing in for real ambergris. Another source says it’s merely extracted from purified landanum. Who to believe? At any rate, I think that this Ambrein contributes softness and smoothness to Arpège, while styrax, civet and those gargantuan aldehydes make My Sin a rough ride.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;What are these vintage perfumes to us, anyway? To me they are a way to touch the past, and I love wearing them. But I’m careful about where, because, truth be told, I’m actually a wimp when it comes to offending others. I can just imagine what a guy in his thirties might say about “My Sin.” I did wear it once, though, to a late night art opening, but I layered it with vintage Habanita. I know, that sounds strange, but it got compliments. Lots of them. Mostly from men, mostly of an age unlikely to have ever smelled “My Sin,” or “Habanita” for that matter.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;But back to Sophia and Jayne. “Arpège” just seems like a blonde’s perfume, while “My Sin,” with all its darkness, would be better, more fitting, somehow, on a dark-haired woman. Sophia, I’d say. (But, geez, Jayne, that &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;dress&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;!)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;If you want to try these vintage perfumes, leave me a comment by midnight, U.S. Eastern Daylight time, July 25th. I’ll pick a winner at random, and send her (or him) a generous sample of each.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;The photo of Jayne Mansfield and Sophia Loren is from Wikipedia, and its usage here falls under Wikipedia’s fair use definitions.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;“My Sin,” called "Mon Péché" in Europe and&amp;nbsp; introduced by Paris couturier Mme. Jeanne Lanvin in 1925, was discontinued in 1988. The perfumer was one “Madame Zed,” who was apparently a White Russian exile who created a number of perfumes for Mme. Lanvin prior to 1925. “Notes” include aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, clary sage, neroli, ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, clove, orris, Lily of the Valley, jonquil, lilac, vanilla, vetiver, musks, woods, tolu, styrax and civet.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;“Arpège,” also from Lanvin, was introduced in 1927. It’s still available, albeit in a 1993 reformulation. The perfumer was Andre Fraysse. “Notes” include bergamot, neroli, peach, rose, jasmine, Lily of the Valley, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, the accord “Ambrein,” vetiver and musk.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-7999585097980260795?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/7999585097980260795/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=7999585097980260795&amp;isPopup=true' title='22 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7999585097980260795'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7999585097980260795'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/07/arpege-vs-my-sin.html' title='Arpège vs. My Sin'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FjEOaqRuNDo/TiM3mCZSZpI/AAAAAAAAAo4/HMO7cvc24b4/s72-c/Sophia_and_jayne.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>22</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1574362009252946247</id><published>2011-07-11T11:09:00.001-04:00</published><updated>2011-07-11T11:09:12.664-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume blogging'/><title type='text'>Infatuation and Perfume</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v_wbN7ed4As/ThsP1TNuSdI/AAAAAAAAAo0/YbDrjiZKM3g/s1600/Bal-a-Versailles-bottle-mirrors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v_wbN7ed4As/ThsP1TNuSdI/AAAAAAAAAo0/YbDrjiZKM3g/s320/Bal-a-Versailles-bottle-mirrors.jpg" width="274" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Olfactarama” is three years old this week. Writing it has taught me a lot about infatuation.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I know that infatuation is, essentially, huge amounts of neurotransmitters being released in the brain in response to, well, something, another person usually. It’s one of the most powerful forces that exists. Millions of songs and poems, books and essays, have been written because of it and millions more will be. It’s that strange combo of joy, longing, lightheadedness and giddiness, those qualities often called “love.” But if the object of one’s infatuation withdraws, then it’s misery. The mind struggles to regain that high. Sometimes the result is obsession, with all its humiliation and destructiveness; sometimes merely a roller-coaster ride through Hell.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;(Ok, so maybe I’m not exactly what you’d call a romantic.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I get infatuated with subjects. I get this extreme need to learn everything about whatever the subject is. It’s actually my best quality -- my favorite one anyway; I’ve learned lots of stuff this way. It’s a little sad when it leaves me, but I’ll retain what I learned (I hope). With the big subjects -- like perfume -- there is always more to know.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;At the moment, I’m turning more towards the essences and molecules that build fragrances. (I know, I know, the pros use patented bases I couldn’t get if I tried, etc.) I want to understand perfumery in depth, how certain essences form accords while others duke it out in the bottle forever, why some things are fleeting and so on. I’m making things in the process, but I doubt they’ll see much light of day, except, perhaps, on my own skin and that of my more tolerant friends. It is the process that is fascinates me now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Initially, I thought that if I could get familiar with the essences enough to nail the damned “notes” that it would help me become a better evaluator, a better critic, better blogger. This fascination with process has really come out of left field, as that say, and I’m truly surprised. But I guess the ability to surprise one’s self is one of the things that keeps us vital and alive.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Infatuations tend to last two or so years at the most, and that’s true, for this one, too. I’m no longer swapping madly and waiting impatiently for the mailman and the UPS truck or spending too much on Our Favorite Online Auction Site or ripping packages open when I’m barely through the door. I kind of miss that high. But my thoughts and explorations of fragrance now are more relaxed, and I don’t mind taking my time. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I guess my infatuation has deepened into true love.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;So I’m thinking about a different kind of delving, of elements, experiments, associations; a calmer, more stretched-out way of thinking about fragrance and smell, this perfect springboard into the exploration of the senses, of memory; sense memory, too. It makes sense now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I know that many of you are writers and forum participants too. Where are you in your own trajectory?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;(The photo is taken from an old Bal a Versailles ad, the classic perfume that was the subject of my first post. Because Bal is one of those that seems to be an olfactory chameleon -- some say leather, some amber, some Oriental, some floral -- I think the multiple mirrors are perfect.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1574362009252946247?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1574362009252946247/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1574362009252946247&amp;isPopup=true' title='10 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1574362009252946247'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1574362009252946247'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/07/infatuation-and-perfume_7054.html' title='Infatuation and Perfume'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v_wbN7ed4As/ThsP1TNuSdI/AAAAAAAAAo0/YbDrjiZKM3g/s72-c/Bal-a-Versailles-bottle-mirrors.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>10</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1325011820011538029</id><published>2011-07-04T10:22:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-07-04T10:22:11.292-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Fourth of July'/><title type='text'>Sparklers</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glGruVZzSyM/ThHKYKPENiI/AAAAAAAAAow/VwA8quSgEjU/s1600/cherry_bomb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="313" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glGruVZzSyM/ThHKYKPENiI/AAAAAAAAAow/VwA8quSgEjU/s320/cherry_bomb.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Not a big Fourth fan. &amp;nbsp;Yahoos with access to explosives make me nervous.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Can anybody remember a Fourth when there wasn’t a “Twilight Zone” marathon on? I can’t.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“Rose Key Accord,” is an aromachemical that smells more like roses than roses. Is this a true simulacrum?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Does anybody really give a rat’s ass what a simulacrum is?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Does having 2,498 “friends” on Facebook mean you’re not lonely?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“True Blood” last night -- ok, I’m old or just old-fashioned, but I’d rather not see, well, ANY of this.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I’m still trying to figure out why I have this strange urge to apply four or five perfumes at once. I read that Jerry Hall used to do that and I thought, “Serious overkill, Jerry.” And now I’m doing it, OMG!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Got some of those nerd glasses. Big tortiseshell horn-rims (is that a contradiction?) I luuurrrvvve them. They make me feel cool.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Aviators, though? No way.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Since when does a health care provider partner up with a coupon giver-outer and offer discounts at restaurants and everything to its members? Since now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Seriously. Looking at you, United Health Care. How many coupons for a colonoscopy? How many coupons for a break on that $1000 deductible?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“Vivienne Westwood’s Boudoir” really does smell like, well, you know, the next morning.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I finally got some of that vintage Paco Rabanne “La Nuit” and yeah. It is all that.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Can’t imagine why anybody would want to follow American Express on Twitter, but some clueless nabob at American Express thinks they will.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Next up: Vetiver vs. (insert your favorite essential oil here)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Caleb,&lt;i&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;don't throw&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;i&gt;cherry bombs at your sister!&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Happy Fourth (to all of you who celebrate it)!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;photo from Gawker.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1325011820011538029?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1325011820011538029/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1325011820011538029&amp;isPopup=true' title='7 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1325011820011538029'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1325011820011538029'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/07/sparklers.html' title='Sparklers'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glGruVZzSyM/ThHKYKPENiI/AAAAAAAAAow/VwA8quSgEjU/s72-c/cherry_bomb.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>7</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-3247652528948388778</id><published>2011-06-27T14:50:00.001-04:00</published><updated>2011-06-27T19:20:24.292-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Ormonde Jayne'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Chantecaille'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Maggie&apos;s Pharmacy Memphis'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragipani perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Hei Poa'/><title type='text'>Four Frangipanis</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDVFlFzQU5M/TgjQOPmgunI/AAAAAAAAAos/5oMuW7UisPs/s1600/dreamstime_xs_14755531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="281" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDVFlFzQU5M/TgjQOPmgunI/AAAAAAAAAos/5oMuW7UisPs/s320/dreamstime_xs_14755531.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;We’ve been having monsoon weather here. Yesterday, it rained as hard as I’ve ever seen rain, including Pacific storms and hurricanes. It could be that a recent desire to spray myself with several fragrances at once is a response to the dramatic weather. (Or maybe not.) I have been craving florals, though, tropical ones, like this.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Frangipani is stealthy. There never has been a flower named “Frangipani,” botanically. The Frangipanis were people, a notable patrician family in Italy, prominent from around 1000 to the 1600’s. The Marchese di Frangipani concocted (or, more likely, had concocted) a perfume used to scent gloves. The perfume featured orris, spices, civet and musk. The gloves became known as “Frangipani gloves.” That name became associated with the tropical flower &lt;i&gt;Plumeria&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;after French colonists in the West Indies noticed a flowering tree whose scent reminded them of the gloves. The variety shown here is &lt;i&gt;P. bicolor&lt;/i&gt;. There are many others.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The blossom blooms at night to lure the enormous Sphinx moth, and other moths. It produces no nectar, though. In the act of poking around looking for nectar, the frustrated moths pollinate the flowers.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;There is much folklore and custom associated with frangipani. In Polynesia, a flower worn over the right ear means unattached and looking for, uh, love; over the left, the opposite. In Bangladesh,frangipani is associated with death; in the Phillippines, ghosts and graveyards.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;What I found interesting about this flower was the wide range of scents I smelled when trying four fragrances made with it; two upscale and two not.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Chantecaille Frangipani&lt;/b&gt;:&amp;nbsp; A white-flower fragrance for sure; there’s some orange blossom here, too, possibly a bit of jasmine, and what I think is Tahitian vanilla in the drydown. It’s heady, but heavy -- must be difficult to do that -- and has slight green notes, but the overall effect is that of a perfect bridal perfume: pretty and sweet, frangipani’s high road.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Ormonde Jayne Frangipani EDP&lt;/b&gt;: This is a very different treatment of the flower from that of Chantecaille. It’s clear, fresh as morning, with a definite hint of green. I smell magnolia, too, and Ormonde Jayne’s characteristic iso-e-super, which makes it a little woody in the early stages. It dries down a bit sweeter, but is never sweet. I’d say this is more Ormonde Jayne and less frangipani, and could be unisex.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Hei Poa Frangipani&lt;/b&gt;: Hei Poa is a French company that makes scents of Polynesia. A friend had a bottle and decanted some for me. It’s pleasant, a little boozy at first, some spice peeks out, and then: wham! Here is the heavy tropical flower, with much less finesse than either of the above. I think this is sold in tourist areas and airports in the South Pacific, particularly Tahiti, for moderate prices. The bottle was great -- hand-painted flowers and a big cork dome on top. I’ve been wearing this at night lately.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;Maggie’s Pharmacy Frangipani Oil&lt;/b&gt;: Maggie’s Pharmacy is a funky shop near downtown Memphis that sells oils, essences, teas, herbs, handcrafted jewelry -- you get the idea. I loved the place. I bought several things from them, and the proprietor gave me a big handful of dried oakmoss, &lt;i&gt;gratis&lt;/i&gt;, which I’m tincturing now. Anyway, this frangipani oil is initially musty and a little lemony, and the flower appears only when heated by skin. Like the Hei Poa, it is heavy, unmistakably tropical, and somehow darker than any of these -- it is an oil, of course -- and eventually it turns a little soapy, although it retains the musty quality.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;In Nigel Groom’s “New Perfume Handbook” there is an old recipe for a frangipani perfume that doesn’t list frangipani at all! Instead, there are synthetics: jasmine, lilac, orange blossom, benzoin, musk ketone -- interesting.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;All of this made me want to search out some frangipani absolute. I’d like to smell the real thing, but am not planning a trip to the tropics anytime soon. It seems to lend itself well to other ingredients -- the Ormonde Jayne and the Chantecaille hardly seem made with the same flower, although the other two do. (Of course there are so many kinds. The plot thickens.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I’ll look around for some absolute.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Do you have a favorite frangipani?&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Photo ©Johnfoto, used under license from Dreamstime.com.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Resource material from &lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;The New Perfume Handbook&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt; by Nigel Groom, ISBN 0 7514 0403 9.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Full disclosure time: The Ormond Jayne sample was given to me a couple of years ago by Ormonde Jayne. The Chantecaille sample was handed out to participants at SniffaPalooza, fall 2010. The Hei Poa came from a friend and the Frangipani Essential Oil was purchased by me at Maggie’s Pharmacy, Memphis, TN.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-3247652528948388778?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/3247652528948388778/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=3247652528948388778&amp;isPopup=true' title='8 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3247652528948388778'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/3247652528948388778'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/06/four-frangipanis.html' title='Four Frangipanis'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDVFlFzQU5M/TgjQOPmgunI/AAAAAAAAAos/5oMuW7UisPs/s72-c/dreamstime_xs_14755531.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>8</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-7648121715373440856</id><published>2011-06-20T16:46:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-06-20T16:46:15.182-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Woman&apos;s Picture'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Moon Drops'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='vintage perfume'/><title type='text'>Moon Drops</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M4hTE4HiRjs/Tf-uksoXIPI/AAAAAAAAAoo/73lsBUSLI9A/s1600/dreamstime_14974952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="221" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M4hTE4HiRjs/Tf-uksoXIPI/AAAAAAAAAoo/73lsBUSLI9A/s320/dreamstime_14974952.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;I just got back from Florida, where I spent a couple of days with&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://waftbycarol.blogspot.com/"&gt;Carol&lt;/a&gt;, who writes WAFT.&amp;nbsp;There were brush fires burning all around us, from months of drought. It was too smoky to walk outside, or go to the beach, or much of anything. So we hung out indoors, sniffing perfume, for two days.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I spotted a green box in her collection that looked familiar. Pulled it out and turned it over. It was vintage Moon Drops.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I’ve recently returned from Memphis, where I was an extra in the forthcoming film &lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/womanspicture/"&gt;"Woman's Picture"&lt;/a&gt;, which concerns mothers, daughters and perfume. Moon Drops was my mother’s signature scent during a difficult time, the 80’s, when we lived on opposite sides of the U.S., and didn’t get along for long on my visits home. I thought of myself as hot stuff then, rising fast in a wicked and glamorous career, and I think that she, a lifelong wife and mother, might have been a little jealous. She made a point of being unimpressed.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I didn’t know whether I should try the Moon Drops. I’d always turned my nose up at it. Drugstore stuff. Cheap. &lt;i&gt;Revlon&lt;/i&gt;, for God’s sake! I’d been disappointed in her for putting away her Arpege and Moment Supreme and adopting as her signature...this? I was hesitant to smell it, afraid that it might bring back bad memories. But I decided to be brave, and sprayed some on my wrist.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Here was the slightly bitter alcohol and aldehyde blast I remembered. She would apply it generously, just before she’d leave the house, and that smell would linger in her wake. Then, I smelled some sort of white flower, followed by -- surprise! -- the trajectory of a Chypre. Orris. Green. Not sweet. Lily of the valley. Carnation -- probably eugenol, quite a bit of it. And finally, moss. Lots of moss.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;The “notes” lists things I don’t smell much of -- ylang-ylang, fruits, honey, cedar. It’s the bitters I smell now. Perhaps the top and midnotes degraded with age, leaving only the structure, the dry bones. Sweetness tends to do that over time.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“The whole fucking world,” says Miriam, of “Woman’s Picture,” to her clueless boss, “is mothers and daughters, Grant.”&amp;nbsp; I’ve been turning that statement in my mind ever since I heard it. Is it true?&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;My father wore Mennen’s Skin Bracer, the after-shave. I wouldn’t have been afraid to sniff that. The bottle of Moon Drops, though, seemed to hold a malevolent spirit, and I held the box for a moment while I considered it.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I appreciate my mother much more now that she’s gone. Hers was a tough life, always moving, raising her kids in the Sixties, that era of generational war, fought across the kitchen table every night; expectations, disappointments. I’m wondering now about her giving up the first-rate French perfume for this drugstore stuff. What was that about?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Practicality. An attempt to conform to small-town life. A bone-deep fear of being thought pretentious. That’s a generational thing, too, far from my era of single-malt Scotch and McMansions with five bathrooms, a time now coming to its own ignominious end.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Carol loved the Moon Drops. As surprised as I was at its classic quality, she told me that she, too, had turned up her nose. She’d had the box for a while and hadn’t even opened it. Once she smelled it, she couldn’t stop spraying, evaluating, exclaiming.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I didn’t, though. It’s not that I don’t like the fragrance. I do. But when I had a signature scent, it was the lush floral oriental Bal a Versailles -- an attempt, I now know, to carve my own identity into that opposite coast, as far away from home as I could get.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;I came back with a decant of the Moon Drops, and another of Charlie, something else she wore back then. I’ll put them in my “Mom Kit,” I joked to Carol, “along with the Arpege and the Woodhue and the Moment Supreme.” &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Here’s the thing though: I’ll do just that. In a way, it’s the least I can do.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;“Notes” for Moon Drops include aldehydes, gardenia, peach, bergamot, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, carnation, orris, honey, sandalwood, musk, cedar, moss, styrax, amber and benzoin.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;Eclipse photo used under license from Dreamstime.com; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px color: #868686;"&gt;© &lt;a href="http://www.dreamstime.com/Emiliau_info"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px color: #3100b0; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Emiliau&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href="http://www.dreamstime.com/"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px color: #3100b0; text-decoration: underline;"&gt;Dreamstime.com&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-7648121715373440856?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/7648121715373440856/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=7648121715373440856&amp;isPopup=true' title='8 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7648121715373440856'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7648121715373440856'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/06/moon-drops.html' title='Moon Drops'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M4hTE4HiRjs/Tf-uksoXIPI/AAAAAAAAAoo/73lsBUSLI9A/s72-c/dreamstime_14974952.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>8</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-2384836759666728596</id><published>2011-06-13T09:54:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-06-13T09:54:26.866-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume fragrance'/><title type='text'>Gone Fishing</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XGlm6Td2zQc/TfYWQoYUIEI/AAAAAAAAAok/NtaB3FaqtFQ/s1600/deadfishdrybrush.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XGlm6Td2zQc/TfYWQoYUIEI/AAAAAAAAAok/NtaB3FaqtFQ/s400/deadfishdrybrush.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;GONE FISHIN&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;...back next week!&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-2384836759666728596?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/2384836759666728596/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=2384836759666728596&amp;isPopup=true' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2384836759666728596'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/2384836759666728596'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/06/gone-fishing.html' title='Gone Fishing'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XGlm6Td2zQc/TfYWQoYUIEI/AAAAAAAAAok/NtaB3FaqtFQ/s72-c/deadfishdrybrush.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-8517912297461471624</id><published>2011-06-06T09:58:00.003-04:00</published><updated>2011-06-06T12:17:10.229-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Woman&apos;s Picture'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><title type='text'>I'm Ready for My Closeup -- Woman's Picture</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yFAfy8pv9TM/TezbdGx6rAI/AAAAAAAAAog/awEThh2wNGM/s1600/still-ann1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yFAfy8pv9TM/TezbdGx6rAI/AAAAAAAAAog/awEThh2wNGM/s320/still-ann1.jpg" width="320" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;You make such interesting friends doing this. I “met” (I wonder how much longer we’ll be putting that word in quotes in this wired time?) Brian Pera, who is cowrites the blog “I Smell Therefore I Am,” when he mentioned my blog in a year-end wrap-up. I was a neophyte then and utterly thrilled to be noticed. We began a correspondence, I found out he was a filmmaker and writer working on a project he called “Woman’s Picture,” an ambitious work in progress whose ongoing exploration of fragrance’s essential meaning encompasses, among other things, the primal relationships between mothers and daughters.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;It’s a short flight from Atlanta to Memphis, so when Brian asked me if I wanted to come up for a few days and participate in the shooting of a pivotal sequence between Miriam (Ann Magnuson), the home-shopping cable host who can’t help but get involved with the lives of her callers, and her elderly mother, Rose. In the scene shot yesterday, Miriam is with Rose in a luxury store, asking for assistance from sales associates as she tries to identify an old bottle of perfume that was Rose’s signature scent. The sight of the bottle and smell of the old perfume elicit an angry outburst from Rose, and we -- and Miriam -- realize that Rose is in the early stages of dementia.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I’m an extra, a customer in the store.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I spent several years working in film production, but it was always behind the camera, as one kind of underling or another. This was the first time I’d ever been in front of one.&amp;nbsp; The actual scene involved pantomiming a conversation between a sales associate and a customer (me) as background to the emotional scene between Miriam and her mother. As I worked I began to think about the great early films -- the silents -&amp;nbsp; and how the actors made every gesture count. Remember Gloria Swanson in “Sunset Boulevard”? “We had faces then!” Well, yeah.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Brian also filmed a short sequence with me, talking about my favorite classic perfume Bal a Versailles. I was nervous, but knew the material, so I did ok -- well, I’m told.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Life does hand one a surprise every now and then, doesn’t it?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I’m honored to be a part of this project. This kind of thing is what perfume is really about. Memory. Fascination. Sadness. Love. Life.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“Woman’s Picture” is about three women who don’t know each other, but are linked through fragrance, with its special power.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Andy Tauer is involved, too. He’s developing three special perfumes, his interpretation of the three characters who will comprise the central triptych -- Miriam, Loretta and Ingrid -- and the fragrances will be so named. These are planned for release over an 18-month period. &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;To read more about the project and see a trailer for the upcoming first release, go to&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://evelynavenue.com/"&gt;Evelyn Avenue&lt;/a&gt;,&amp;nbsp;named after a beautiful old street in Memphis.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I’m sitting in my hotel room in early morning, writing this. Soon I’ll have to pack and check out and check in and fly home, to all my responsibilities, and the get-it-done rhythm of daily life. I guess I’d have to call this movie magic, the act of suspending the routine for a little while. Good fragrance is like that, too. It allows us to check out of get-it-done for a few moments, and enter a mysterious realm. I think that “Women’s Picture” will be the first film to look -- really look -- at perfume.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The photo is Ann Magnuson, as Miriam.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-8517912297461471624?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/8517912297461471624/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=8517912297461471624&amp;isPopup=true' title='13 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8517912297461471624'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/8517912297461471624'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/06/im-ready-for-my-closeup-womans-picture_06.html' title='I&apos;m Ready for My Closeup -- Woman&apos;s Picture'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yFAfy8pv9TM/TezbdGx6rAI/AAAAAAAAAog/awEThh2wNGM/s72-c/still-ann1.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>13</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-5030728159031240019</id><published>2011-05-30T13:38:00.001-04:00</published><updated>2011-05-30T17:31:48.484-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;Zits&quot;'/><title type='text'>Zits: The Scented Life</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"&gt;Special Holiday Edition*&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sc0--2-BCLY/TePVFB-xi1I/AAAAAAAAAoc/ogf4IVtLdcA/s1600/Zits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="145" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sc0--2-BCLY/TePVFB-xi1I/AAAAAAAAAoc/ogf4IVtLdcA/s400/Zits.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;*&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"&gt;Hey, even a blogger has to take an occasional day off!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-5030728159031240019?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/5030728159031240019/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=5030728159031240019&amp;isPopup=true' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/5030728159031240019'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/5030728159031240019'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/05/zits-scented-life.html' title='Zits: The Scented Life'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sc0--2-BCLY/TePVFB-xi1I/AAAAAAAAAoc/ogf4IVtLdcA/s72-c/Zits.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-4272438252138275075</id><published>2011-05-23T18:49:00.002-04:00</published><updated>2011-05-23T18:52:21.240-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='&quot;The Scent Trail&quot; by Celia Lyttelton'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='book review'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume ingredients'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='custom fragrance'/><title type='text'>Book Review -- “The Scent Trail (How One Woman’s Quest for the Perfect Perfume Took Her Around the World)” by Celia Lyttelton</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yh_gVTylM2Q/Tdrjb6SWjgI/AAAAAAAAAoQ/QVDzUSrqAdE/s1600/scenttrail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yh_gVTylM2Q/Tdrjb6SWjgI/AAAAAAAAAoQ/QVDzUSrqAdE/s320/scenttrail.jpg" width="238" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I was surprised when I saw, on some book-buying site, a book about perfumery that I hadn’t ever heard of. I think that’s because this is a travel book, conceived, written and probably shelved in the “Travel” section, and it’s a great travel book.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The lucky Ms. Lyttelton, who is the daughter of archaeologist Margaret Lyttleton, grew up on the move, and now has no qualms about nosing around &lt;i&gt;souks&lt;/i&gt; and asking impertinent questions. This is the perfect trip. Lyttelton spends two years investigating the ingredients she’s chosen for a bespoke perfume. At the beginning of the book, she meets with a custom perfumer, and they work out a fragrance for her. The ingredients she chooses are neroli, petitgrain, sambac jasmine, mimosa, damask rose, iris, nutmeg, vetiver, frankincense, myrrh and ambergris.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“So I set out,” she writes, “for the places where these ingredients grow, to meet the people who harvest them and to discover at least some of the secrets of perfume making from the perfumers who ‘magic’ the raw ingredients into scent.”&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Off she goes, husband, (sometimes) toddler and translators in tow, to mythical places like Grasse, Paris (where she talks with Frederic Malle), Morocco (where she talks with Serge Lutens), Florence, where the irises grow, Turkey for rose, India and Sri Lanka for jasmine and vetiver, and finally Yemen for frankincense and myrrh, and to search the island of Socatra’s beaches and &lt;i&gt;souks&lt;/i&gt; for real ambergris.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;This book came out in 2007, when Yemen wasn’t quite as dicey as it is now, although it was an uncommon destination for westerners. She speaks of having once gotten lost in the desert with her mother in that country and being rescued by Bedouins. Clearly, she’s comfortable wherever this trail leads.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Lyttelton makes some assumptions that aren’t always true (“once you’ve smelled something for the first time, the next time you encounter that smell you can immediately identify it”...uh, I can’t) and she also speaks of clearing the nasal palate with coffee beans, which is currently being &lt;a href="http://firstnerve.com/2011/05/coffee-bean-meme-olfactory-palate.html"&gt;disproved&lt;/a&gt;, but I’m splitting hairs here. (Can’t help but wonder what Sephora plans to do with all those beans, though.) She’s done her homework -- lots of it.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“The Scent Trail” is a very entertaining book, full of primary information about how the natural ingredients for perfumes are obtained. She touches on the subject of synthetics, but not much -- things were a bit different when this book was being written (“Buddah,” she says, “is in, and boudoir is out” -- this before the tasteful Marc Jacobs/Tom Ford print ads, I assume.) What has happened since then, with the reformulations, the no-scent movement and the over-regulation of ingredients made reading about all this history and mystery a sad experience; I can’t help but think about what might have been, and what the perfume business has become -- all business.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;I’m increasingly grateful to the suppliers of these ingredients, because I’m not planning a trip to Yemen anytime soon (Paris maybe; one can always hope!), but know that if I really want a tiny bit of ambergris tincture or jasmine absolute, I can find them, and smell them and think about what she called “magic-ing” these storied raw ingredients into scents.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;Lyttelton credits the perfume she had made with tremendous power, to draw others closer, and, most importantly, to transport her to all the places she went to in her effort to understand this art. “My scent,” she says, “encapsulates distant lands, and its aromatic composition is filled with stories.”&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;“The Scent Trail” is available in paperback. The ISBN is 978-0-451-22624-2.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 14.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;The book’s cover design is by Oceana Gottlieb.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-4272438252138275075?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/4272438252138275075/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=4272438252138275075&amp;isPopup=true' title='5 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/4272438252138275075'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/4272438252138275075'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/05/book-review-scent-trail-how-one-womans.html' title='Book Review -- “The Scent Trail (How One Woman’s Quest for the Perfect Perfume Took Her Around the World)” by Celia Lyttelton'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yh_gVTylM2Q/Tdrjb6SWjgI/AAAAAAAAAoQ/QVDzUSrqAdE/s72-c/scenttrail.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>5</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-6893495634642573905</id><published>2011-05-17T09:00:00.004-04:00</published><updated>2011-05-17T09:00:07.641-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume sample drawing'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Zeta'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><title type='text'>Winners of ZETA samples from Tauer Perfumes</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-afkbnPUVqDI/TdJgz5xn8qI/AAAAAAAAAoM/R_GQ-0E7yrc/s1600/Dice+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="148" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-afkbnPUVqDI/TdJgz5xn8qI/AAAAAAAAAoM/R_GQ-0E7yrc/s200/Dice+3.jpg" width="200" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;The winners of the three ZETA samples&amp;nbsp;(chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="http://random.org/"&gt;random.org&lt;/a&gt;)&amp;nbsp;from Tauer Perfumes are: &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Alicia at cleis&lt;br /&gt;oloiuqui&lt;br /&gt;flavourfanatic&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Please get in touch with me at olfractarama at att dot net with your postal addresses&amp;nbsp;and I'll get these out to you double quick!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;(Normally there would be a post here; however, my MAC's hard drive fried yesterday and it's in the shop; back next week with a regular entry.)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Congratulations winners, and thanks to Andy Tauer!&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-6893495634642573905?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/6893495634642573905/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=6893495634642573905&amp;isPopup=true' title='2 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6893495634642573905'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/6893495634642573905'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/05/winners-of-zeta-samples-from-tauer.html' title='Winners of ZETA samples from Tauer Perfumes'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-afkbnPUVqDI/TdJgz5xn8qI/AAAAAAAAAoM/R_GQ-0E7yrc/s72-c/Dice+3.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>2</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-7327665605475326914</id><published>2011-05-10T00:01:00.009-04:00</published><updated>2011-05-13T16:52:23.980-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Zeta'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tauer Perfumes'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume samples drawing'/><title type='text'>She's as sweet as...a sample drawing</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zuvaCPJfvsE/Tcgc7CzsCcI/AAAAAAAAAoI/TCpFuznL2OU/s1600/rainbow-in-hand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="306" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zuvaCPJfvsE/Tcgc7CzsCcI/AAAAAAAAAoI/TCpFuznL2OU/s400/rainbow-in-hand.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I have trouble asking for freebies. This particularly applies to perfume samples. Usually I just suck it up and order them like everybody else. Not free, but guilt-free, if I don’t like it.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I’ve always ordered and paid for my samples from &lt;/span&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.tauerperfumes.com/"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Tauer Perfumes&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;,&amp;nbsp;because I believe that a niche perfumer of Andy Tauer’s reputation probably gets a zillion requests for free samples. I’ve never wanted to be one of Those People. Weird timidity? Maybe. Anyway, I dutifully ordered a sample of the new Zeta, behind the curve as usual, and got four samples and a nice note saying “just e-mail us next time” and so I guess I’m on their radar.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;This is my favorite Tauer of all, so far, and I’m not just saying that. For some odd reason I started thinking the song “Tupelo Honey,” by Van Morrison. Odd association, since this is not a honey fragrance. But who knows where these associations come from? I try to accept them, never suppress them, ride them like a surfer rides a wave. The song, a favorite of mine, is playing in my head right now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I haven’t loved all the Tauer fragrances. With some of them, mostly the earlier ones, I’ve wished the perfumer had used a slightly lighter hand with the “Tauerade,” that incensey resinous &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;thang&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; in the base. But I can also see a brand developing here. A link between in all the perfumes. That’s smart. Admirable.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;“Zeta” is lighter on the Tauerade than any of the other fragrances I’ve tried. It’s there, but just a whisper, just enough. This perfume shows, more than anything, the perfumer’s increasing skill. Subtle is tough.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;I’ve been messing around with oils and absolutes, making ambient scents, realizing how difficult this art is, how expensive the good natural ingredients are (and how cheap, therefore tempting, the synthetics are). My mother used to say that if you want to see how a dress is constructed, learn to sew and make a dress. It’s true. Make a dress -- not that my efforts have been anything but laughable --&amp;nbsp; and you’ll never look at readymade clothing the same way again.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;The notes in “Zeta” have, of course, been discussed already, in all the major perfume blogs, so I’m not going to get into long discourse about them. The fragrance opens with citrus, but it’s not sharp; it’s a little orange-y. Then it slides seamlessly into the florals, led by our old friend orange blossom -- which can be as heavy as an anvil but here is uplifting -- how did he &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;do&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; that? -- and neroli, the slightly different take on orange.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;I’ve only smelled linden trees in bloom once, while walking down Linden Drive in in Beverly Hills during their bloom. I don’t remember the scent specifically, only that it was beautiful. I lingered next to my car, breathing it in, until the inevitable Parking Police approached and I had to flee. The linden here is subtle, arranged with a rose called “honey yellow,” a trace of vanilla and then, after awhile, a bit of orris, then the suggestion of the Taurade base.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Some of the Tauer scents have&amp;nbsp; been brilliant conceptually, but not always completely wearable except by those with enough knowledge to appreciate the ingredients and the perfumer’s artistry. “Lonestar Memories” comes to mind as an example. Zeta, which Tauer calls “an ode to summer,” is completely accessible, and could be worn by anyone who just wants to smell good. In the modern perfume marketplace, this scent is reasonably priced, too, at around $150 U.S. Dollars for 50 mls.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;So am I tempted to keep my other three&amp;nbsp; samples? Yes! Am I going to? No! I’m going to give them away to three lucky commenters. Step right up: the drawing, for generous spray samples, ends a week from today, which is to say Tuesday, May 16&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font: normal normal normal 8.7px/normal Georgia; letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;th&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;, at 9 a.m. Eastern U.S. Daylight Time, at which time I will pick the three winners.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Good luck, everybody!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Full Disclosure time: &amp;nbsp;I bought my sample and received the three extras from Tauer Perfumes.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Leave a comment to enter the drawing for a generous spray sample of Zeta. The three winners will be chosen using&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a href="http://random.org/"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;random.org&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Rainbow-in-hand photograph by Pat Borow, all rights reserved.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-7327665605475326914?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/7327665605475326914/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=7327665605475326914&amp;isPopup=true' title='34 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7327665605475326914'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/7327665605475326914'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/05/shes-as-sweet-asa-sample-drawing.html' title='She&apos;s as sweet as...a sample drawing'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zuvaCPJfvsE/Tcgc7CzsCcI/AAAAAAAAAoI/TCpFuznL2OU/s72-c/rainbow-in-hand.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>34</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-1815861674107807496</id><published>2011-05-02T12:14:00.000-04:00</published><updated>2011-05-02T12:14:17.226-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='honeysuckle'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume ingredients'/><title type='text'>Honeysuckle Memory</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6bYM9-rrwfE/Tb7NirKboLI/AAAAAAAAAoE/CqIbjRMEDVc/s1600/honeysuckle2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6bYM9-rrwfE/Tb7NirKboLI/AAAAAAAAAoE/CqIbjRMEDVc/s400/honeysuckle2.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;When I was a child, my parents would release me to the outdoors after dinner. Summer dusks here are long, and all the other kids would be sprung in the same way, to “go outside and play.”&amp;nbsp; Our playground was enormous, patches of woods at either end of the street, and big, sloping back yards. Ours had a small creek running through it, and the other kids would come to it, seeming instinctively drawn to the water.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Behind the creek there was a neighbor’s chain-link fence, nearly invisible under a thick growth of honeysuckle vine. At dusk, the whole area would be fragrant with the sweet and heavy scent of the flowers. While we waited for fireflies, we’d pick blossoms. If you pulled away the stem gently enough, then squeezed the flower’s base, a drop of nectar would appear. Applied to the tip of the tongue, that nectar was the sweetest, most delicious taste imaginable. We’d pick blossom after blossom, until the fireflies -- which we called “lightnin’ bugs” -- would appear, flying slowly enough for us to catch them in jars. We’d make the jars our night lights.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;On a street adjacent to mine there is a small house, abandoned now, owned by the last descendent of the family which once held all the land around here. The yard is full of what my neighbors call “junk” and I think of as the natural antecedent to Southern folk art -- mysterious rusted metal objects, ancient yard tools, falling-down swing sets, a tilting shed. While walking by it the other day, I smelled a familiar, gardenia-like scent, and soon came across a big growth of honeysuckle vine on the chain-link fence. Breathing in the intoxicating aroma made me remember. I picked a blossom, and tasted the nectar. Sweet but not sugary, and fresh as dew, it was as delicious as that memory. I wondered, again, if these childhood experiences led me to perfume.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Honeysuckle is not looked upon kindly by conservationists or land-management experts. It’s invasive. Although &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Lonicera Japonica&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;, the Japanese honeysuckle of the South, arrived in the US in the early 1800’s, it still isn’t called a native plant. Like kudzu, it’s a perennial vine, which can spread via underground rhizomes or by seeding. It twists itself around anything vertical, and can even choke out trees. But it supports a large variety of butterflies and moths, and provides children -- those lucky enough to be allowed to roam, anyway -- with a precious sensory experience.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;There are around 180 types of honeysuckle, which grows primarily in the Northern Hemisphere, and about 20 in the U.S. It’s classified as a “noxious weed” in several states. Planting it is unlawful in New Hampshire. If you look it up, you’ll find a whole lot of Agricultural Department advice about getting rid of it. Burning it, poisoning it, ripping it out of the ground -- all these are covered, and more. Still, the plant thrives. You don’t see as much of it as you used to, though. It would never be allowed to grow in the manicured yards on my street, but that old abandoned homestead -- that’s another story. &amp;nbsp; A little clapboard house, a front porch with a swing, a yard full of God knows what all that stuff was -- and honeysuckle, climbing up the chain-link fence again.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;There are a number of perfumes with a honeysuckle note. Creed makes “Chevrefueille,” which means “Honeysuckle” in French, and has an ambergris base. Diorella -- the modern version -- combines it with lemon and vetiver. Vintage Guerlain Chant d’Aromes lists it, as does vintage Arpege. Jo Malone makes a Honeysuckle and Jasmine scent, and Liz Zorn’s “Honeysuckle Bird” uses it along with linden, muguet, wild strawberry, rose, jasmine, green moss, light amber and natural vanilla.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Diptyque makes a “Chevrefueille” candle.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;Photo by Pat Borow, all rights reserved.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/5368575022567970621-1815861674107807496?l=olfactarama.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/feeds/1815861674107807496/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=5368575022567970621&amp;postID=1815861674107807496&amp;isPopup=true' title='12 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1815861674107807496'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/5368575022567970621/posts/default/1815861674107807496'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://olfactarama.blogspot.com/2011/05/honeysuckle-memory.html' title='Honeysuckle Memory'/><author><name>Olfacta</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/15789892462517523124</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='32' height='28' src='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Y0R0vU4mffY/SUJSB8m8WWI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/xfIYgROrgb4/s1600-R/pat%2Bright%2Beye%2Bcloseup.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6bYM9-rrwfE/Tb7NirKboLI/AAAAAAAAAoE/CqIbjRMEDVc/s72-c/honeysuckle2.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>12</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368575022567970621.post-2003131108433997032</id><published>2011-04-26T00:01:00.004-04:00</published><updated>2011-04-26T00:01:03.370-04:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrances'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='fragrance'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume swapping'/><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='perfume samples'/><title type='text'>Miles on Vials</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4WKLT6O0bgs/TbX3D7c7UXI/AAAAAAAAAoA/ILRslVOdkss/s1600/swap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"&gt;&lt;img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4WKLT6O0bgs/TbX3D7c7UXI/AAAAAAAAAoA/ILRslVOdkss/s400/swap.jpg" width="400" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Anyone who’s been a fragrance enthusiast for a while has one. It may be a bucket or a cigar box or a plastic bag. I know it’s there somewhere, lurking, like those jeans in the way-back back of the closet (you know the ones). Like the photo album with all those pictures of you when you were fourteen and in full 80’s gear. Like those, er, Polaroids in the shoe box.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Swap etiquette is a curious thing. Because it often takes place between women who don’t know each other, there are certain unwritten rules. (It has occurred to me that these same unwritten rules, and there are many of them, are precisely what drives the opposite sex to distraction, but maybe that’s another topic.)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Anyway, one of the rules is that you always include &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;langiappe&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;, pronounced “lawn-yawp,” which is a Louisiana term for “a little something extra.” To &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;not&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; do so could be seen as crude, gross, selfish, greedy or all these. So one generally throws that little something extra into the package, typically something you tried and didn’t much like. Often it’s the &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;langiappe &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;you got from somebody else.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Some of these vials have more miles on them than George Clooney’s itinerant hatchet-man character in “Up in the Air.”&amp;nbsp; I’ve gotten swap vials with glass worn so thin that they break when dropped. Some have seen the world; some have seen it more than once. Some have labels so stained and blurred that I can’t tell what’s in them. Some, however, are treasures; perfumes from the truly generous, or, occasionally, the newbie passing along a sample with has no idea what she has.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;So let’s take a random sampling from my (plastic, Zip-Loc, quart-sized) swaps bag and see what’s in there.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Chanel Chance.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; Cute little roll-on bottle with a pink lid. About half a ml of cloudy juice that smells the same to me as every other mass-market “frag.” What &lt;/span&gt;&lt;i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;is&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; that stuff they put in there? And cloudy juice in a roll-on = somebody else’s shed skin cells, yuck. This one goes in the trash.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Annick Goutal Sables.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; Of maple-syrup fame. Not bad if you love immortelle, but I’d rather not smell like the short stack at IHOP.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="font: 13.0px Georgia; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"&gt;&lt;span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt;Bulgari Omnia Crystalline.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"&gt; One of the endless Omnia flankers, not bad particularly, but there’s no reason to wear it.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style=
